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-   -   Another Jacking question (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/another-jacking-question-171428/)

Alan 02-08-2013 11:12 PM

Another Jacking question
 
I finally should have some free time this weekend to get under there and jack up my floor.


I am thinking that I might have an easier time digging the new footing(s) pouring them, and using the footings themselves to support the jacks while I slide a post in next to the jack.


Does this sound reasonable? I figure I need to dig anyway to be able to put lumber underneath the jack to support it anyway. Why not just put in the footing and set the jack right on it?

joecaption 02-08-2013 11:17 PM

As long as you make the footings 24 X 24 with rebar in the middle and 6 to 8" thick it will work. Give them at least 2 day to let up, the longer the better.

jomama45 02-09-2013 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1112880)
As long as you make the footings 24 X 24 with rebar in the middle and 6 to 8" thick it will work. Give them at least 2 day to let up, the longer the better.


Why the rebar?
And why in the middle?

Alan 02-09-2013 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1112880)
As long as you make the footings 24 X 24 with rebar in the middle and 6 to 8" thick it will work. Give them at least 2 day to let up, the longer the better.

When you say the middle, you're talking about vertically, right? I'm planning on making them 12" thick, so what depth should I set the rebar at?

joecaption 02-09-2013 10:40 AM

12" is way over kill, at that thickness your not going to need any rebar or mesh.
Have you taken the time to see how many bags that's going to take?

BigJim 02-09-2013 11:05 AM

Alan, if you are going to jack on the footings I would put a couple of 2X12s with the grain running across each other just for added precautions, it takes concrete a good while to really cure.

Alan 02-09-2013 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJim (Post 1113101)
Alan, if you are going to jack on the footings I would put a couple of 2X12s with the grain running across each other just for added precautions, it takes concrete a good while to really cure.

Thanks Jim. :)

Alan 02-09-2013 01:11 PM

So here is what I found :


The bearing point that I want to jack up does indeed have a footing underneath it. It's a little off center from where it should be, but I don't think that's a huge issue.

I dug down next to the footing, and found that it's thickness is approximately 8" which is pretty much right around 8" below grade. It's also about 16" square with a pier block squished into the top of it probably a couple hours after the concrete for the footing was poured.

In digging, I found that I had to go another 6" below the bottom of that footing to find what seems to be undisturbed soil. There were still a couple of veins of loose soil around the edge of my hole, so I will probably have to excavate another 2-3" of the hard stuff.

How do I know how hard the soil should be to support this footing? I can definitely tell the difference between the loose soil (fill?) and this other stuff at the bottom of my hole.

With that all in mind, I think that I have a good game plan here. Let me know if you don't think this will work.

1 : Dig 18 x 18 hole on either side of the footing in order to allow for cribbing to support jacks.

2 : Install cribbing and jack beam up to desired elevation

3 : Remove post and footing from under beam. (roto-hammer time? :laughing:)

4 : Dig 24 x 24 hole where existing footing was down to undisturbed soil.

5 : Pour new footing, install brackets, and set post after concrete has cured


I think the only other question I have is : If my footing is that far below grade, won't I have to pour a thicker footing in order to keep my lumber above the dirt? Is there some other way of doing this that's escaping me?


Thanks in advance. P.S. I'm dirty. :eek:

BigJim 02-09-2013 02:53 PM

Sounds like you got it going your way. I missed somehow where you said what you were jacking up and how far from the floor to the footing it is.

Is where you are going to jack a weight bearing spot or just taking a swag out of your joists?

Alan 02-09-2013 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJim (Post 1113320)
Sounds like you got it going your way. I missed somehow where you said what you were jacking up and how far from the floor to the footing it is.

Is where you are going to jack a weight bearing spot or just taking a swag out of your joists?

It was in another thread... no problems there. I actually only have about 14 " or so from the footing to the bottom of the beam so I need a hole to set the jacks in. No joists, post and beam, tongue and groove 2x6 subfloor.

I was planning on jacking at the weight bearing point but since there is already a post and footing there, I guess the best I can do with it is set a jack on either side of it as close as I can get it?

I need it to move up about 1/2"

joecaption 02-09-2013 03:06 PM

The new piers should be concrete block not wood!
#1 That would spread out the load.
#2 No way is it ever going to rot.

BigJim 02-09-2013 03:53 PM

Alan, I remember your other thread now. Joe is right, I would come off the footing with concrete blocks, that would keep your wood away from the ground.

Alan 02-09-2013 04:20 PM

Joe : Any chance you could do a quick sketch so I can get a visual on what you mean?

Does the rest of my plan seem like it will work out ok?

Alan 02-10-2013 12:27 PM

OR : What type of concrete block are we talking about, and how do I attach it to the footing?

joecaption 02-10-2013 12:38 PM

Look this over.
http://www.raisedfloorlivingpro.com/gallery.shtml

All you need is morter. All the force is downwards.
DO not use aluminum for the termite shield, copper or vinyl will work.


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