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Old 11-17-2008, 07:20 PM   #1
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am i missing anything here?




do i need to add or change anything here? do i have the members for the top plate and double plate overlapping according to code? are the fly rafters spaced right? are the cripples done right?

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Old 11-17-2008, 09:59 PM   #2
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am i missing anything here?


It' hard to see the details, and I'm about to head off for bed.....but, off the top of my head:

You need to show that your window jack studs are supporting the window headers, your diagram is not showing that.

Minor: We prefer to have a double bottom sill on the windows (It's not structural, it's for nailing your window trim - stool & apron)

Your gable end studs should be sitting directly over your wall studs (16" O.C.) - in your drawing, they are not.

You need to show the dimensions of your ridge beam, and you should also have the engineering calculations to show that the beam is "sized" for the structural roof load in your region.
Based on your ridge beam width, you need to show the adequate-width post-down (stud supports below the beam) to the foundation. Additionally, it is good to have side studs (studs - cradling the ridge beam on each side) and also posted down to the foundation, as well.

Your rafters need to show in the diagram, or in a smaller detail, that they are notched to sit on top of your wall plates.

Generally, the building dept. needs to see all sides of the framing details (4 sides), also -the structural roof framing diagram, and the structural floor framing diagram.

You can make a notation on your drawing that the top wall plates will be overlapped and interlocking.


That's it for now, there may be more suggestions from others, but I'm off to bed....

Good Luck on the project.

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Old 11-20-2008, 11:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtlanticWBConst. View Post
It' hard to see the details, and I'm about to head off for bed.....but, off the top of my head:

You need to show that your window jack studs are supporting the window headers, your diagram is not showing that.

Minor: We prefer to have a double bottom sill on the windows (It's not structural, it's for nailing your window trim - stool & apron)

Your gable end studs should be sitting directly over your wall studs (16" O.C.) - in your drawing, they are not.

You need to show the dimensions of your ridge beam, and you should also have the engineering calculations to show that the beam is "sized" for the structural roof load in your region.
Based on your ridge beam width, you need to show the adequate-width post-down (stud supports below the beam) to the foundation. Additionally, it is good to have side studs (studs - cradling the ridge beam on each side) and also posted down to the foundation, as well.

Your rafters need to show in the diagram, or in a smaller detail, that they are notched to sit on top of your wall plates.

Generally, the building dept. needs to see all sides of the framing details (4 sides), also -the structural roof framing diagram, and the structural floor framing diagram.

You can make a notation on your drawing that the top wall plates will be overlapped and interlocking.


That's it for now, there may be more suggestions from others, but I'm off to bed....

Good Luck on the project.

i moved the gable studs over top of the wall studs, added side studs to the one under the ridgebeam, fixed up the jack studs to support the headers, added another plate to the window sill,
this is the rafter detail, would this be acceptable for code?

ive been thinking of how to transfer the weight to the foundation, and thought of these 3 options, which would be good for this? i thought i would make use of the nailer i have for the joining wall since its right in the middle of the house
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Old 11-27-2008, 06:05 PM   #4
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The rafter to plate detail is on the right track, but you need some more contact at the birdsmouth cut to the top plate. As drawn, you only have a couple inches of bearing.

As for the stud detail, keep the 2x6's oriented the same direction as all the other studs. That way you don't have to fool with spacers made from plywood, which is abnormal. No need to put studs "flat" in the wall.
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekctermite View Post
The rafter to plate detail is on the right track, but you need some more contact at the birdsmouth cut to the top plate. As drawn, you only have a couple inches of bearing.

As for the stud detail, keep the 2x6's oriented the same direction as all the other studs. That way you don't have to fool with spacers made from plywood, which is abnormal. No need to put studs "flat" in the wall.
i lowered the rafters, and altered the nailer areas for the joining walls, so there are no more flat studs


here is the detail of the lowered rafter


these are the details for the nailing areas and the transfer studs for the gable wall center stud, the drawing on top is for the center one, the bottom for the right. would these be the right way?


is there anything else on this wall i need to change or add?

Last edited by feralfreak; 12-02-2008 at 03:33 AM.
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:30 AM   #6
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Framing details look good to me. Don't forget the anchor bolts from the bottom plate to the foundation.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:27 PM   #7
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Do any shear walls or siesmic ties (sill to foundation, top plate to rafters, etc.) needed, or needed to be shown?
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:28 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsheetz View Post
Do any shear walls or siesmic ties (sill to foundation, top plate to rafters, etc.) needed, or needed to be shown?
That depends on your regional building codes, and the scope of your particular project/addition/custom-home/etc....
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Old 12-03-2008, 06:43 AM   #9
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with those areas where i have an internal joining wall, where i got 3 2x6's put together, can i make the middle 2x6 a spacer like a corner post or should it be solid?
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:45 AM   #10
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No need to make it solid. Some framers don't even use a stud at the intersection of nonbearing partitions to exterior walls. They add horizontal blocking (like a ladder) between the adjacent studs and they nail the partition studs to them. Works fine.
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Old 12-12-2008, 10:34 PM   #11
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am i missing anything here?


when i was doing the rafter and joists layouts, i ran into something i am having trouble with, mainly with the ceiling joists,
on one side shown in the top image, i have the joists against the rafter, but in the bottom one, because i think (and i am likely wrong about it)the other side would have to be shifted over to shake hands(is that the right term?) by 24 inches on both sides, with the ceiling joists of the bottom one, i think i didnt do the bottom one right, because i remember being told that ceiling joists make good collar ties but by moving them over it makes no contact with the rafter, did i mess this up? is there a better way to do this?

(in the bottom one, i put some hatch marks to show the gap between the p2 joists and rafters on the first 2 and on the overlapping joists from p1)

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