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Old 09-16-2010, 05:19 PM   #31
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yawn... did you say something?

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Old 09-17-2010, 03:52 PM   #32
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All right, today's question: If my deck is 16' by 14' AKA 224 Sq Feet, how much gravel would you pick up to spread over the landscape fabric underneath the deck?
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:33 PM   #33
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All right, today's question: If my deck is 16' by 14' AKA 224 Sq Feet, how much gravel would you pick up to spread over the landscape fabric underneath the deck?
A little over a half a cubic yard for each inch of coverage depth you want.
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:58 PM   #34
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1yd coming tomorrow

Today's question: Do you guys usually bury the posts for the railing at the bottom of the stairs? I've read every bit of literature I can find and it just calls for the stairs landing on "flat solid ground" and "not grass". I plan on using pavers if that matters.

I'm worried about the lateral stability of the railing if the post is just cut and bolted to the bottom of the stringer. Am I worrying about nothing?
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:42 PM   #35
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I definitely agree that the best way to attach is to notch the 6x6 and bolt the 2x10s. Just make sure to use bolts approved for ACQ materials. I also suggest a single notch to accept the double 2x, not a notch on each side of the post. As you get farther along you can go to http://www.buildmeadeck.com
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http://www.deckbuy.com
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:07 AM   #36
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Right..... the 4x4 (not 6x6) is bolted through w/ carriage bolts, i'm just worried about he whole d@mn thing flexing... any ideas?
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:20 AM   #37
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You can use small sections of 6x6 to create angled bracing from the post up to the beams. install these at a 45 degree angle about 18"-24" down from beam.http://www.buildmeadeck.com
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:58 AM   #38
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Today's question: How much more friggin' rain are we going to get before I can get back out there?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
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Old 10-01-2010, 12:20 PM   #39
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Today's question: How much more friggin' rain are we going to get before I can get back out there?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Stop thinking deck, start thinking ark.
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:13 AM   #40
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Well the "Deck" part is done and the railings are actually starting to look like railings. Should be done by this weekend and then I'll be working on the stairs.

Today's question: DO you guys traditionally use deck boards or fascia boards for the "kick" part of the stairs (not the part you step on, but the part you would kick if your foot kept going forward).
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:57 PM   #41
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I use 1x Cedar.
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Old 10-15-2010, 05:30 PM   #42
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good question!

what i used was fence board actually cause its really thin. i wanted the thinner board because i wanted to maximize my tred depth. for a single tred, i used a 2x10 board ripped in half cause that was the exact board that fit the step with 1" overhang.

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Old 10-15-2010, 06:03 PM   #43
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good question!

what i used was fence board actually cause its really thin. i wanted the thinner board because i wanted to maximize my tred depth. for a single tred, i used a 2x10 board ripped in half cause that was the exact board that fit the step with 1" overhang.

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You could use 1x, 2x, 3x, or 4x there and it wouldn't change the tread depth.
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Old 10-15-2010, 10:05 PM   #44
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are we talking about the same thing?

here is a side profile.



The treds are shown in dark blue, and the kick board shown in hot pink. if that hot pink were 4" thick you would definitely lose tred space.

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Old 10-16-2010, 06:53 AM   #45
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are we talking about the same thing?

here is a side profile.



The treds are shown in dark blue, and the kick board shown in hot pink. if that hot pink were 4" thick you would definitely lose tred space.

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Yes we’re talking about the same thing.

The pink board is the riser. Now look at the tread above.

Whatever the thickness of the riser is now added to the tread depth above.

When you put in the next riser on the step above you now get your original tread depth back.

The risers “always” go in first and the tread butts into it.

If you were to install the tread first then stack the riser on it then yes you would lose depth.

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