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Old 08-19-2010, 08:14 AM   #16
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I've been looking around and even though the deck will only be 30" off the ground I agree that the notching actually looks a lot better. I'm definitely sold on notching, it might add some time but oh well.

From what I've been able to gather it's not really a huge deal which side you notch on. I intend on doing it facing one way on the left beam and facing the other way on the other beam - nothing wrong with that right?

Holes are dug and concrete is going to be poured by the end of the day. Going w/ the anchor bolts that were discussed in my first question. I'm sure I'll have more questions soon....

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Old 08-19-2010, 08:23 AM   #17
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pete....make sure the anchor bolts are in a nearly perfect straight line.

I put a stake at each end with a string attached. Adjust the string/stakes untill they are where you want them over the concrete. You have some wiggle room with the bases, but once the bolts are in and the concrete has set you're committed.
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:27 PM   #18
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Well... I dug down about a foot and the ground got rock hard real quick. I added up the cost of renting the auger, buying the tubes, footings, concrete, renting me mixer... trucking everything back and forth etc. I estimate it all to have totalled right around $650 bucks. To have everything done by a local deck builder was $950 - really not bad, and all my vertebrae's are intact. I checked the anchor bolts and they all look dead on. Now I can actually focus on the fun part.

This is one that's been bugging me: The guy at the local lumber yard says it's now against code to mount the 4x4's for the railings on the outside of the 2x10's but I can't seem to find much information on the topic. I'm trying to search through the building code but I think my search skills are starting to suck....
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Old 08-21-2010, 02:33 PM   #19
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2006 Deck Code, figures #24-26: http://www.lancova.com/deckinfo.pdf Notice fig. 11 also.

http://bulk.resource.org/codes.gov/

Be safe, Gary
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:34 PM   #20
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how about some pictures for your deck so far?
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Old 08-24-2010, 05:30 PM   #21
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Gary:

The first link contains text that very clearly stats that the support post can be mounted on the inside or outside, but I see no mention of it in the CT code. Am I looking for the wrong thing? I tried "guard post" and "railing". Either way... it looks like I can put it on either side, I was just puzzled by the fact that I couldn't find it in the CT code.

Knucklez, not much done as far as woodwork really. Just had the wood delivered today.



double post
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:44 AM   #22
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OK, with my next question I'm probably going make it painfully obvious that I'm used to working on cars instead of houses haha.

For the through bolts attaching the beam to the notched 6x6 post: Is there a torque spec or will "go until snug" suffice?
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:48 AM   #23
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Pete....dont be afraid to make them as tight as you can, within reason of course.

What bolts are you using?
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:01 AM   #24
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I haven't picked them up yet - somehow I ended up w/ all lag bolts and no through-bolts. I will be picking them up Friday or Saturday. Any tips?
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:36 AM   #25
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I'd say 1/2" hot dip galvanized bolts, washers and nuts for sure. I prefer 6" carriage bolts.
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Old 08-25-2010, 12:53 PM   #26
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Thanks 12penny.

The hot topic in my reading for today seems to be when to stain the deck! I had thought it might be a good idea to stain the boards before building even, but the more reading I do it seems to not be the case. Everything but the posts, beams and frame is made from Cedar. I've read "wait 1 rainstorm", I've read "wait 2 weeks" and I've read "stain it when it appears dry".
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Old 08-25-2010, 01:18 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoconutPete View Post
OK, with my next question I'm probably going make it painfully obvious that I'm used to working on cars instead of houses haha.

For the through bolts attaching the beam to the notched 6x6 post: Is there a torque spec or will "go until snug" suffice?
As soon as the washer starts to press into the wood you’re done.
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:47 PM   #28
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Give your local B.D. a call to see if they use the 2006 DC.

http://www.wolman.com/faqs.asp?faq_id=31
http://www.wolman.com/faqs.asp?faq_id=28
http://www.wolman.com/faqs.asp?faq_id=2
http://cabotstain.com/products/produ...od-Primer.html

When dry. Try 48 hours...... not weeks or the sun and elements will get to it.

Be safe, Gary
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:25 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
- Don't stain wood before deck is assembled
- Clean the deck as soon as it's assembled
- Stain the deck as soon as it's dry after cleaning

Got it !!!!!
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:47 PM   #30
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Well... no question today... this is probably the slowest moving deck in the history of DIY chatroom. First I was on vacation for a while and now I'm in CA for work for the week. This weekend though!!! Progress should show.

I got some pretty sweet window wrap, super sticky. Frame is all up, just need to put landscape fabric underneath it w/ some gravel and then i'm ready to put down the decking.

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