All my deck questions in here.
 

Well... I'm gonna continue to have more and more questions as i get into this project so instead of creating a new thread every week I am going to gather them all in here :thumbup:

I'm building a 16x14 deck at the back of my house. First decision:

Which type of post anchor do you guys like working with? The kind you attach w/ a bolt you stuck in there before the concrete it dried or the one where you stick the whole schebang in there while the concrete is wet?

Pro's and con's of each?

the only thing i can think of is with the first one you avoid having to drill a hole in the bottom of the 6x6 to accommodate the piece of threaded rod and the nut at the bottom.

I would use a different version of the bottom one. The one I use has a platform the wood sits on, which keeps it off the ground about an inch.
Ron

I assume you have a drawing and plan to file for your permit, which should contain all of the materials.

Its a standoff post base. Available everywhere. And the hole is elongated, so you have a little wiggle room. I use a 1/2" x 10" anchor bolt set in the crete. If you pull a string over all your footers you can keep them in a straight line.

And Bills right, dont forget the permit. It'll probably cost you around $100 or so, but you'll sleep better.

I am at the same stage your are. The consensus seems to be that you want the post base that you tap into the dry concrete. Gives you more wiggle room for perfect placement of the post, in case the footing shifts while curing. If I am wrong, please anyone feel free to correct me.

Yes, I do have drawings of footing layout etc, and I will actually be visiting town hall for the permit this week before I break ground. I might be foreign, but I'm not about to skip on permits. It's actually EASY here compared to Denmark :yes:

So... the general consensus seems to be favoring anchoring the 10" bolt in the crete and then bolting the anchor onto it. I can't seem to locate the one you all are talking about though, the one that sits 1" above the concrete.

EDIT: Nevermind - is it the Simpson Strong tie one?

Simpson does have a line of them, selection depending on uplift loads, etc.: http://www.strongtie.com/products/ca...ost_bases.html Move your cursor over the AB's.

Be safe, Gary

Found it: I think that one looks pretty good. I guess a benefit of that kind of footing would be that if you ever needed to replace the bracket you could unscrew it if you needed to.

Next topic: Footings:

The deck Calls for 2 22" footings in the middle and the 4 outer ones will be 16". I planned on using the surefootings 22" for the middle ones but the guy at city hall told me today to just use a shovel to flare out the ones for the 16" ones and he would be fine with it ...... Now I have no problem doing that, but what do you anchor the tube to in that case? How do you make it "hover" 8" above the bottom of the hole?

Hover boards, page #39: http://books.google.com/books?id=1gg...num=3#PPA31,M1

Gravel back-fill and under the footings: http://rockproducts.com/mag/rock_agg...prevent_frost/

Be safe, Gary

OK: Next one.......

Do you guys prefer notching the 6x6 or using H brackets (I think that is what they are called) to attach the beam to the post?

Pro's and cons of each?

pete...it depends on the size of your beam. If its 2 - 2x's then notching the post is an option. If your beam has 3 pieces then you have no other choice but to put the beam on top and use simpson ties.

Beam is going to be made from 2 2x10's and the post is a 6x6.

Just wondering if anyone has feedback on picking one over the other.

pete...faster by far to use ties. But, I always liked the solid feel of lumber bolted to lumber.

Notching and through bolts with nuts and large washers.
I find brackets sitting on top attached with nails an inferior installation.
Ron

Cover the tops of the built beams AND the post notch with sticky window wrap to protect against water. Remember that p.t. is treated against bugs and fungus rot, not water rot......... The heartwood exposed after notching usually is not injected because of its density there. http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code

http://www.ufpi.com/literature/ptfaq-204.pdf


Be safe, Gary