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-   -   Advice for Water Problem in Garage (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/advice-water-problem-garage-140333/)

jschweg 04-15-2012 10:35 AM

Advice for Water Problem in Garage
 
Hi guys, I'm looking for some advice on resolving a moisture problem in my detached garage that has caused a pretty bad mold problem. The garage is one of those prefab kit garages that was installed before I bought my house.

The garage just basically sits on the concrete pad with no real barrier (that I can see anyway) between the concrete and the garage itself. Water basically just seeps through at the bottom of the concrete pad. The pic below is from the outside where the garage meets the concrete:

http://www.jschweg.com/linked/Outside.jpg

The previous owner has obviously tried the quick fix by smearing tar everywhere. Obviously on the inside the water seepage has caused mold on the drywall:

http://www.jschweg.com/linked/Inside.jpg

Obviously I'm planning on gutting the entire garage and replacing all the drywall with greenboard, but how do I deal with the water problem, which is obviously the root of the problem.

joecaption 04-15-2012 10:59 AM

Well since all of that was built completly wrong, and would never meet any kind of building code it's going to take some time and money to fix it.
If it was my job to do I'd cut the panels you have there now at 6" from the slab, replace any bottom plates that have rotted out, sister any rotted studs.
Seal the bottom cut area with primer and paint then pry out the siding enough to be able to slide in a piece of Z moulding.
Use aluminum coil stock to form a larger Z moulding and attach to the studs and form it so it went up the studs 6" and out over the slab and down below the slab.
Then install 1 X 6" vinyl lumber.
This way the siding would be the 6" min it needed to be above the slab, water could not get in and the weed wacker could not damage the siding.
If it has wood outside corners I'd also cut them off and wrap the vinyl lumber around the outside corners so there not going to rot any more.

Yours failed because the slab is to close to grade, the building did not over hang the slab and the siding is to close to the grade.

Bondo 04-15-2012 11:05 AM

Quote:

but how do I deal with the water problem, which is obviously the root of the problem.
Ayuh,.... Disconnect the anchor bolts, 'n jack the Whole thing up 'bout a Foot, 'n lay a course of blocks 'round the perimeter, core fill 'em with new bolts, 'n set the place back down...

jklingel 04-15-2012 12:25 PM

it sure looks like you are headed in joe's direction. you have some major repairs to do. jacking up is fine, but it won't fix the rot that is there already.

Joe Carola 04-15-2012 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jschweg
Hi guys, I'm looking for some advice on resolving a moisture problem in my detached garage that has caused a pretty bad mold problem. The garage is one of those prefab kit garages that was installed before I bought my house.

The garage just basically sits on the concrete pad with no real barrier (that I can see anyway) between the concrete and the garage itself. Water basically just seeps through at the bottom of the concrete pad. The pic below is from the outside where the garage meets the concrete:

The previous owner has obviously tried the quick fix by smearing tar everywhere. Obviously on the inside the water seepage has caused mold on the drywall:

Obviously I'm planning on gutting the entire garage and replacing all the drywall with greenboard, but how do I deal with the water problem, which is obviously the root of the problem.

You can temporarily support.the exterior walls one at a time and cut the bottom out enough to install a row of block...sill sealer and pt bottom plates.

jschweg 04-15-2012 08:23 PM

Thank you everyone, this is really helping me a lot. Bear with me, this is new territory for me, so I'm just trying to understand.

The concrete is 4 inches from the ground to the top of the pad, and then the start of the framing is 4 inches indented onto the pad:

http://www.jschweg.com/linked/Outside2.jpg

I know that the groundwater isn't getting above the 4 inch pad height, so
I'm guessing that it is collecting along that 5 inch lip and seeping in that way. Now when you guys say to raise evertyhing, I should add the blocks flush with the framing NOT with the outer edge of the pad right? So that way I can put some sort of siding between the block and framing so the water can't possibly get in there.

Just want to make sure I understand.

joecaption 04-15-2012 08:44 PM

Raise the garage and it will through off all the passage door and overhead doors.
It can be done with a lot of reframing and a new overhead door if you have one.

cortell 04-15-2012 08:53 PM

IMO, you have two issues going on. One is you're about 2" shy of the 6 that should be between soil and the mudsill. Regrading around the structure can be the most cost-effective way to solve this problem. See my comments in
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/found...oo-low-139831/

The second issue may be the bigger problem, though. It's that 5" lip. I can't tell from the pic. Is it level or slanted. If slanted, in which direction--towards the structure or towards the yard?

jschweg 04-15-2012 09:51 PM

The lip is completely level, which is why I think water is pooling there and seeping in.

cortell 04-15-2012 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jschweg
The lip is completely level, which is why I think water is pooling there and seeping in.

It's a certainty. There another thread ongoing with the same issue. It has some good recommendations.

jschweg 04-15-2012 11:11 PM

Great thank you. Can you point me to that thread or is it the one you mentioned above?

cortell 04-15-2012 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jschweg (Post 899823)
Great thank you. Can you point me to that thread or is it the one you mentioned above?

http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/new-f...rusion-140310/

jschweg 04-16-2012 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 899411)
If it was my job to do I'd cut the panels you have there now at 6" from the slab, replace any bottom plates that have rotted out, sister any rotted studs.
Seal the bottom cut area with primer and paint then pry out the siding enough to be able to slide in a piece of Z moulding.
Use aluminum coil stock to form a larger Z moulding and attach to the studs and form it so it went up the studs 6" and out over the slab and down below the slab.
Then install 1 X 6" vinyl lumber.

JoeCaption: Is the below drawing basically what you were getting at? Cut wall panel 6 inches up from slab, the red is the inserted Z moulding. Only part I'm missing is what you mention with the vinyl lumber part.

Sorry, hard to visualize this stuff when I haven't done it before.

http://www.jschweg.com/linked/Fix.JPG

joecaption 04-16-2012 11:55 AM

What you have drawn is right your just missing two more piece you need.
Your going to need a piece of Z molding under the siding that will sit out over the vinyl lumber to keep water from running down the wall and getting behind the vinyl.
The vinyl lumber gets attached so the bottom sits on the slab and the top is under the Z moulding that's missing in your picture.

jschweg 04-16-2012 12:30 PM

Gotcha. I have revised my drawing. Blue is additional z-moulding, and the brown is the lumber. Everything is pulled apart in the drawing, but all would sit flush.

So this is all together correctly now right?

http://www.jschweg.com/linked/Fix2.JPG

My last and hopefully final question is what is holding the wall panel and both mouldings together? Pressure? And now is the lumber affixed to the side of the wall?

Thank you for your patience, I think most others would have killed me by now.


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