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Old 12-06-2010, 09:30 PM   #16
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Advanced framing or conventional?


Why in the world would you frame 1 foot on center like that with 2 by 4's. even if 2 by 6's are twice the cost if you put them on 2 foot centers you would have the same cost into the framing. Maybe I am missing something here ( it would not be the first time).

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Old 12-06-2010, 09:45 PM   #17
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Advanced framing or conventional?


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Originally Posted by warnerww View Post
Why in the world would you frame 1 foot on center like that with 2 by 4's. even if 2 by 6's are twice the cost if you put them on 2 foot centers you would have the same cost into the framing. Maybe I am missing something here ( it would not be the first time).
The staggered arrangement eliminates the thermal bridge of the stud (wood is a poor insulator). A continuous piece of insulation can be run through the wall

Putting it at 12"OC also allows me to use cheaper rafters (2x6) and cheaper thinner decking


Edit: Forgot also, it makes the building quieter as well since none of the exterior studs connect through to the inside

Last edited by dwoloz; 12-06-2010 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:03 PM   #18
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Advanced framing or conventional?


I just re-read about your insulation plans. Are you going to use batts, or blow in cellulose of FG Spider stuff (a cat on the GBA forum had some pretty good numbers on it, and he prefers it in hot, humid places)? I'm sold on blown in cellulose; fills every nook and cranny, deters bugs, etc. Just curious. j
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:07 PM   #19
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Advanced framing or conventional?


Not 100% on that yet actually. In my mind I imagined something "snaking" through the wall space but blown in would work just as well Id imagine, if not better since it can fill every last little space
Are there DIY options for blown in insulation?
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:26 PM   #20
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Advanced framing or conventional?


sure. ho de po will rent you the machine to blow in cellulose. make sure it is treated w/ borates. you can cut holes in the sheathing and install through them (outside may be the best; easier to fill back in. i'd just epoxy the cut-outs back into their spot and tar paper over it). If you apply from inside, you can leave a 6" wide gap in the sheet rock, insulate your way out, then install a piece of rock 1/8" thinner and mud 'er in; no showing seams then. Other options are the netting; see youtube for vids. Google Robert Riversong and/or Larsen Truss, too. I will use dense packed cellulose in my new addition for sure.
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:19 AM   #21
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Advanced framing or conventional?


Nice. Thanks for all your help!

Larsen Truss is definitely an interesting system
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Old 12-07-2010, 01:02 AM   #22
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Advanced framing or conventional?


LTruss is pretty cool. Robert Riversong has modified it into a Riversong Truss. It uses very little wood, and Robert is big on local, rough sawn wood. When I built my first house in '80, it occurred to me to forget the batts and fill the space w/ DPC next time, but I never thought of eliminating the thermal bridge at the rim joist, etc. I will likely use a true double-wall design, but that is very similar to the L/RTruss. Good luck w/ you building. j

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