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INGunGuy 10-11-2009 07:13 PM

Adjusting Garage Door torsion springs
 
OK everyone, I have a MAJOR issue that has been plaguing me for the last 2 months. OK, here goes... About 6 months ago, I had a torsion spring on my garage door break. So, I decided to go ahead and replace the single broken spring myself, I know, I know I should have replaced the pair, but I didnt, but honestly it was a pretty easy fix, everything was working great, and the next spring decided to break about 2 months ago. Ok well no big deal, I went out and purchased the other spring and the fix was identical as before no real big deal. Where this is where the problem comes into play. OK, I start with the pulleys on the same plane, so that they wind together and are not out of sync with each other. The cables are taught, not like I can play a tune taught, but nice and taught. I then hold the bar in place with some vice grips so I can wind the spring. I lock the door in the down position and put 28 (1/4 turns) on each spring which was actually 1 (1/4 turn) less than the instructions called for, but it was a nice even number.

I then remove the vice grips from the bar and release the lock on the door, and the door springs up with NO intervention from me at all. The door was under LOTS of tension and was brought all the way up to the upper end of the door travel. To put the door down required lots of effort. So the problem is too much tension on the springs. I lower the door, and take 10 (1/4 turns) off of each side. Get down, unlock the door, and it still wants to come up, BUT this time it comes up without the force that it came up with before. So, I decide to pull the door down, and take off 2 more (1/4 turns) as I figure this is enough to keep the door from springing up without user intervention. So I get down unlock the door, and it stays down, now my problem is that the door will NOT stay in the 1/2 way open/closed position as the instructions say it should, and the spring doesnt have enough torsion to even hold the door in the full upright position. So I drop the door, and put 1 (1/4 turn) back on the springs unlock the door and the door doesnt spring up, BUT it also wont hang in the 1/2 way open/closed position. So drop the door and put 1 more (1/4 turn) back on the springs. Get down, unlock the door and the door will come up unassisted, and if I hold the door in the half way position, it was stay there unassisted as long as I dont let the door spring up past the half way point. OK, so the door wont stay closed, but it will stay in the 1/2 was open/closed position, and the springs will hold the door in the fully opened position, BUT next problem, the springs have lost ALL tension and the door is about 6 inches lower than the header and the cables on eigther side of the door are loose and about to unspool off the spools. If I manually raise the door to the fully upright end of the travel, and the cables come off the spools. So, I go thru the entire adjustment again, and get the door back to where it was before the cables came off the spools. Now what I have noticed is that 1 (1/4 turn) to 2 (1/4 turns) makes all the difference if the door even operates properly. So, what I see is that when the door is fully up, and the bottom of the door is just flush with the header, the cables are ALMOST ready to unspool. But the problem, is that when I release the door from the opener shuttle it will still open unassisted. So I am trying to figure out how to get the play out of the cables and still not have the door spring up unassisted and also stay in the full upright position. I am about to my wits end and need some help on this. If someone can help, and needs any further information, please let me know.

INGunGuy

jomama45 10-11-2009 08:35 PM

I think you offerd plenty of info, & I believe your problem is very simple: you have the wrong replacemnet torsion springs. They are rated for not only different weight, but also lift heights. The easiest fixes are either the correct springs or an automatic opener.

INGunGuy 10-11-2009 08:39 PM

That is what I thought at first, but the springs are a direct replacement for what was on the door to begin with. And when I replaced only a single spring, everything worked as it should. When I replaced the second spring that is when I started having the trouble. It does look like if I were to raise the door to the proper height, then loosed the pulleys and take up any slack that is in the cable that would fix the issue, but that would require me to turn the pulleys while the door is in the upright position.

Thanks for the input

INGunGuy

Willie T 10-11-2009 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by INGunGuy (Post 339368)
That is what I thought at first, but the springs are a direct replacement for what was on the door to begin with. And when I replaced only a single spring, everything worked as it should. When I replaced the second spring that is when I started having the trouble. It does look like if I were to raise the door to the proper height, then loosed the pulleys and take up any slack that is in the cable that would fix the issue, but that would require me to turn the pulleys while the door is in the upright position.

Thanks for the input

INGunGuy

I was having similar problems.

I took the door all the way up, put a turn or so more on the shaft, (ya need to SLIGHTLY back off the pully locks to do this BE CAREFUL!!!), held the shaft in place with a couple of big vise-grips, loosened each pully and rewound the cables, (they tend to get all criss-crossed), then tightened the pullys down on the shaft again and took the vise-grips off.

Works nice, although I DO have to push kind of hard on the final two feet of closing. I usually just use my foot.

Maintenance 6 10-12-2009 07:22 AM

Sure sounds like the springs were rated for a heavier door. Pull springs are color coded near the ends for weight rating. Some torsion springs have it too. See if there is a paint mark on the ends of the coils. If so, it should be the same color on the old and new springs.


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