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Old 01-06-2010, 06:42 AM   #1
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? on adding window to load bearing wall


I am finishing a walkout basement and want to add a window to a load bearing wall. The wall is 2x6, 16oc and supports 2 stories and roof. I would like to replace 2 of the studs with window framing. I am unclear on the need for temporary supports.

First, do I need them in this application? Second, if I do, how do I get the window header in with the supports in place? [FYI...framing from inside....won't cut out the opening until spring...tood cold here!!!]

Lastly, for ease of framing, would you use a built up 2x12 header to eliminate the jack studs under the header?

Thanks!

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Old 01-06-2010, 07:43 AM   #2
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? on adding window to load bearing wall


Jack studs are what holds up the header which is what supports the bearing load above. You cannot eliminate these. If this window is less than 6' wide no temporary support will be needed and only one pair of jack studs are required. If wider, use a temporary wall about two foot into the room and you need to use double jack studs.

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Old 01-06-2010, 11:42 AM   #3
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? on adding window to load bearing wall


You need jack studs unless the header is built into the floor system above. (Part of the rim joist, extending out past the opening to sufficient bearing on each end). I recommend temporary support. There may be a point (concentrated) load above from a window, etc. that a temp. wall would carry while doing the work. The rim joist may be joined or pieced in over this 4' wide opening. Really hard to see without being there..... for all the variables that could be.

As per minimum building code, you need 2 jack studs on each end with a header carrying your load and spanning 2'11" if house is 36'. Match your house width, load of roof, ceiling, and two floors for the proper sized header and jacks required: http://www.burlington.org/Building08/Spans.pdf Check with your local Building Department for verification. They may also have requirements about the window location; in a shear panel required for wall bracing, size of window percentage of floor space required for light or/and ventilation, egress size - if required for bedroom, etc. eg- http://illowaicc.org/uploadedFiles/I...20Openings.pdf


Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:13 PM   #4
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? on adding window to load bearing wall


Quote:
Originally Posted by Oxymoron View Post
I am finishing a walkout basement and want to add a window to a load bearing wall. The wall is 2x6, 16oc and supports 2 stories and roof. I would like to replace 2 of the studs with window framing. I am unclear on the need for temporary supports.

First, do I need them in this application? Second, if I do, how do I get the window header in with the supports in place? [FYI...framing from inside....won't cut out the opening until spring...tood cold here!!!]

Lastly, for ease of framing, would you use a built up 2x12 header to eliminate the jack studs under the header?

Thanks!
Sorry...I meant eliminate the cripple studs over the new window header by using the 2x12 build up....

Regarding building the temp support wall, can I assume that it needs to only span the distance where I am removing the existing studs? And also can I assume that they should be 2x6 if the existing studs are 2x6?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:26 PM   #5
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? on adding window to load bearing wall


ALSO, when building the header for an exterior load bearing wall [2xx6 framing] are there any suggestions. I was going to use 3 2x lumber, with 1/2 plywood spacers to give me the same size as the 2x6....but what about insulation. How is header strength calculated....single, double or tripple 2x lumber? For example, Could I use 3x12 on the inside with 1 " eps foam on the outside next to the sheathing? OR am I overthinking this...which is my tendency!
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:59 PM   #6
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? on adding window to load bearing wall


Yes, wall under area removed. Support with 2x6 studs, one under each joist. Three 2x nailed together with the insulation on inside is fine:
24. Built-up girder and beams 20d @ 32" (813 mm)o.c. at top
and bottom and staggered,
2-20d at ends and at each
splice. From an older code. Good framing reference: http://www.mcvicker.com/resguide/page009.htm I personally would caulk the members as building for an air seal (ends too) and foam inside for a thermal break. Remember to add any housewrap or builder's paper before installing framing for weather barrier if messed up upon removal of studs.

Be safe, Gary

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