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cjay 09-10-2006 01:54 AM

adding a wall
 
I'm planning on adding a wall to a living room making it a master bedroom and have a few questions. How would I go about securing the bottom plate to cement? What would be the best way to make sure that the top and bottom plates are parallel? Would it be best to toenail the studs to the top and bottom plates or build the frame on the floor then raise it and nail it?

Any help is appreciated.

joasis 09-10-2006 05:49 AM

Answers in order:
(1) tapcons, concrete nails, small anchor bolts, one on each side of the doorway, and a few more on the length of the wall.

(2) Plumbline (plumb bob and a string) from the top down.

(3) Build in place, toenail or screw the studs to the plates.

fqp25 09-10-2006 09:19 AM

Tapcons, (blue screws) but make sure you drill a pilot hole first. They usually give you the correct size drill bit when you buy the tapcons. If not there should be a guide on what size bit to use, somewhere on the box.

You can also rent a Ramset Fastening system. This will shoot a fastener into the concrete, by using gun powder. They now have systems which uses compressed gas, it's a little bit safer.

joasis 09-10-2006 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fqp25 (Post 17794)
You can also rent a Ramset Fastening system. This will shoot a fastener into the concrete, by using gun powder. They now have systems which uses compressed gas, it's a little bit safer.

I would also use a Ramset or similar, but this is not a DIY tool, and can be dangerous. The style of anchoring that really works well is a wedge lock bolt, like a 3/8 by 3-1/2 inch bolt...simply drill a 3/8 hole with a hammer drill, tap the bolt in, and then tighten. We are using them more and more for perimeter anchor bolts on new home construction, rather then traditional "j" bolts in the floor.

fqp25 09-10-2006 12:11 PM

I agree with Joasis. Technically you need to be licensed for Ramset, but rental places don't really care. Anchors in my book might be a little overkill for a sole plate. Tapcons are probably the best bet for a DIY. Especially if the plate needs to be moved for some reason, your not stuck with an anchor stubbed out of the floor.

Just remember to use pressure treated wood, or else you'll be re-doing that plate in a couple of years.

AtlanticWBConst. 09-11-2006 06:52 AM

Also:

You should figure out where your Strapping or floor joists are in the ceiling. You need to know where these are to nail/screw your top plate into. If you are off with that, the wall generally isn't going to go anywhere, but, you will have cracks in the drywall ceiling corners.

This is the same issue with the vertical part of your wall (if there are no studs present to nail the new wall into), where the new wall will tie-in perpendicularly to the existing walls.
You want the whole corner to 'lock-in' so you won't have cracks in the drywall corners. You should have no problem tying-in at the bottom plate and the top plate.
When we do remodeling which involves this, we like to install corner nailers. However, that involves opening up the existing walls to do that.

Without opening up the old walls, I would suggest that you use a construction adhesive (liquid nail, PL, etc...) along the length of the end studs that will go against the existing walls. That will help to 'lock-in' the whole length and avoid D/W corner cracks.


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