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Old 01-19-2010, 10:24 PM   #16
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


If you start removing rafters there is a problem with the deck sheathing not being attached

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Old 01-19-2010, 10:52 PM   #17
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


there will likely be some re-shingling done as the skylights get installed. nails could be added at that stage when the openings are cut and befiore the flashings are added.
are you considering some 'crickets' above the skylights? you don't mention what part of the world you are in.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:57 PM   #18
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The problem Gbar pointed out is that the existing rafters do not sit fully on their heel
They were not cut right
A 2x4 as a rafter 16" OC will span about 7', and you say you only have a 5' span
I'm not sure where you are located - snow load ?
If they are 2x6's and heel is landed right then effectively for support a 2x4
Which may be OK if no snow

Myself I'd have to rip it all out, put a beam across & then rebuild the roof
I would not go with a hip, instead just a straight slope up to the house

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Old 01-20-2010, 12:45 AM   #19
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


As I said, the common rafters are fine for the span. It's the hips that are being reduced to 2x4's with the level cut cutting the tension 2" thickness out. With the three stacked top plates, the installer should have used only two. Was he matching another roof section?
Does your roof rise 3" per level foot, a 3/12 cut? Or is it a 4/12 cut?

Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-20-2010, 10:09 AM   #20
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


I live in new haven, ct. We tend to be living in a bubble when it comes to the states avg. snow - we don't get much, but when we do it's about 6" max, but then melts and freezes and becomes slush...

I think I can imagine why they built the addition as they did - there is a window on the second floor and the rafters to this particular roof go right up to it – any larger of a slope and the window would have been covered.

from what I can tell, every addition / mod in this house was done by the owner - which is what I’m doing, but I am noticing severe corners being cut i.e. bathroom roof upstairs is "tied" into the main roof by just sitting on top of it and they cut one of the rafters out of the main roof in order to make an entry way to said bathroom... It’s been support by its neighboring rafters, and it’s no longer much use because of the bathroom roof, still..

anyways
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Myself I'd have to rip it all out, put a beam across & then rebuild the roof
I would not go with a hip, instead just a straight slope up to the house
I agree with you - and maybe that's something we should consider...that cannot happen now - out of budget / not enough time. Perhaps in a year or two when we redo the roof of the entire house we can take it out and build new.

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With the three stacked top plates, the installer should have used only two. Was he matching another roof section?
yes - that's my impression, except the beam that holds up the wall this roof attaches too is lower than the original ceiling height - thats another thread Ill be opening up soon because i want to raise that (and it's only one 2x4 without any supports over the 10' span

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Does your roof rise 3" per level foot, a 3/12 cut? Or is it a 4/12 cut?


I am pretty sure its 3”, so 14 degrees. Does this make a favorable difference in this discussion?



would double-plate rafter ties help increase strength?

Last edited by capslock; 01-20-2010 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 01-20-2010, 10:18 AM   #21
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


I would wait the 1-2 years & do it right
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Old 01-20-2010, 10:35 AM   #22
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


skylites on a 3 pitch? just asking for trouble
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Old 01-20-2010, 10:53 AM   #23
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My last house I had a Velux 606 venting skylight on an almost zero pitch....never leaked
All depends upon how well you seal it, I used additional flashing I made
Most Mfg you must have a min 15 degree pitch or it voids their warranty

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Old 01-20-2010, 12:21 PM   #24
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Hey folks,

Just to add - are there any comments at the top of the rafters?

Here is a photo of what it looks like - as you can see, it's nailed to a 2x4, which is nailed to the exterior of the house / 2x4 studs:


http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1491001/top_rafter.jpg




thank you all for your input
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:44 PM   #25
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


You could easily put 2 skylights in this space and stay away from the ridge beams. Put them both in the center of the opening, close together.
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:12 PM   #26
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


The ledger should be lagged to the exterior wall, and rafter hangers wouldn't hurt, but not necessary. Hangers are a little expensive, so just a simple angle bracket on each rafter would be a little reassuring.
Also, as a framer, the hip rafters I have used that weren't LVL's or monster doug fir, were one size bigger than the commons, and doubled, glued and nailed from both sides. Example: 2x10 common rafters = (2)2x12 hip rafter.

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Old 01-20-2010, 03:49 PM   #27
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


"With the three stacked top plates, the installer should have used only two. Was he matching another roof section?" ------ He should have used two plates which would thicken the heel depth of the hip rafters. But he matched ceiling level.

"
I am pretty sure its 3”, so 14 degrees. Does this make a favorable difference in this discussion?
" ------- 3/12 is 15* and very shallow. It is the bottom limit for your skylight application. Snow/ice could easily build up above the skylights and leak water inside. Your hip rafters are now required to be structural, with your low pitch. The code has changed because of failures with earlier roofs. The hips are now designed as beams, not rafters.

An additional problem is venting this roof as per code. With a window above you may be unable to use roof/wall vent and have to go with "turtle-backs". The main problem is connecting all rafter bays to vent at the top, without affecting the structural integrity of the already compromised rafters.

Your insulation (R-49) requirement will be a challenge, 065 zip: http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/...on/ins_16.html Be ready to use a lot of SPF or rigid foam board to meet that R-49. Another post is going on now about that.

Your area requires a vapor barrier/retarder, but check with local B.D. as many omit it unless 12" air space is above (attic) the rafters.

I suggest installing ceiling joists and adding a larger skylight in the middle common rafter area with a chase down which would be much safer/cheaper/dryer.

Be safe, Gary
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:37 PM   #28
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


Andersen carries a curb to set skylights into that have less then the required pitch.
Looking at the house connection of the hip structure, what do you have spanning the ceiling that is carrying the load of the open space under it? The ceiling joists inside look like they're very narrow for the span. Almost like a 3x? laid on it's side.
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:24 PM   #29
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adding skylights to vaulted ceiling


I took some additional measurements. the ledger is only 24", so, adding up doubling the of each rafter, there is barely enough room for a skylight.

at this point my thought is to hold off on the skylight for now, add beams to have the drywall level with the rest of the rooms ceiling, and put the skylight and vaulted look on hold.

In the next couple of years we are planning on expanding the entire room by 5 feet, so at that time I will rip out this roof and build it back up. In the meantime it's been holding for x amount of years, it can hold for a couple more.

I appreciate everything we've discussed and i'll keep it all in mind come time to expand.

Thanks, now on to raising and fixing the header:
Raise header of house wall plus add more header

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