adding garage ceiling joists

bhorstkotte

Hi folks, thanks for taking the time to read my question (and hopefully respond).

I have a 38' x 22' detached 4 car garage, which has no ceiling, and I would like to install a drywall ceiling. It has no ceiling joists at present, just 48" o.c. 2x6 collar ties running the "short" way. I would like to add ceiling joists running the same way. From the span tables I checked, to be able to run that 22' span, support the drywall (possibly two layers, for soundproofing), and a little storage above, I would be 2x10s.

My question is about installation: the 5:12 pitch roof drops to about 6" above the wall top plates, so the full 2x10 wouldn't fit there. Is my best option to:

1. notch out the ends of the 2x10s, so they are only 6" tall over the supporting walls?
2. bolt ledger boards to the stud walls, and attach the joists to the top (or edge?) of those ledger boards (did some searching, but didn't find a picture that shows how the joists mount to a ledger board)
3. mount the 2x10s to the tops of new stud walls, framed an inch inside the existing walls (planning that anyway, since half of the garage will be converted into a home theater / music studio)

Here are a couple pictures:






Thanks...

redline

1) you could cut the angle of the roof on the 2x10 instead of notching.
2)If you bolt a ledger board then you could mount joist hangers and insert the 2x10's into the hangers and fully nail.
3)you could also mount the 2x10 to the top of the new walls.

bhorstkotte

Thanks redline...

Right, that's what I meant, vs. notching.

So basically, any of those options would work? Any preferable to the others? Any other options I didn't think of?

crecore

One other alternative...not that it's better... you could throw the joists up, maybe even every other if there's absolutely no attic load (see span charts) on top of the top plate (cut roof pitch as stated to get full bearing) then you could fir down the ceiling joists 16 oc the opposite direction... this would rid of the 1.5" gap where someone forgot to compensate for the double top plate on the wall stud lengths more than likely. I like framing more than sheetrock so.. just another option since u asked.

AtlanticWBConst.

(Hard to tell if there is good space above the top plates or not, but.....)

My vote would be , assuming room on the top plates:

1. notch out the ends of the 2x10s, so they are only 6" tall over the supporting walls?

Easiest option and what I feel most framers would do.

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bhorstkotte

Thanks for the help guys.

Would the collar ties need to remain after the larger joists are installed, or could they be removed? What about the corner bracing (as it is, it would interfere with the level surface of the new joists, for hanging drywall on)?

Hammatime

I would leave the existing collar ties. Just put in your 2 x 10's 16 o.c.. You can take the corner bracing out after you install all the ceiling joists. You will want to put blocking in between the ceiling joists in the center of the garage. The 2 x 10's will want to twist over time and this will help prevent that.

Hammatime

Also there is no need for 2 sheets of drywall. That's just more unneeded weight on the joists.