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Old 05-26-2005, 05:45 AM   #1
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Adding a bathroom

Next question. I bought a house 110+ years old. It has one small full bath on the second floor and a shower and toilet on the first floor. I want a nice modern bathroom - off of the master bedroom (which will be on the first floor). Is this something I can do (I think I am fairly handy) or should I get a contractor? Do I need to pour a slab for the bathroom or frame it in like a porch? Does anybody have any rough estimates on what it would cost to build a bathroom (without the appliances) approximatly 12*12 or 12*14 with a 8 foot ceiling. I would have to put a roof on it too.:confused:

Has anyone ever put hot water tanks in series? I have 6 in my family and 1 heater at times haas a hard time keeping up. Two in parralell seems to me would cost more.



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Old 05-26-2005, 05:55 AM   #2
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As far as the hot water, IMO feeding one with the other, then feeding the house with the second seems like a waste of time. I'm not sure how much good it would do you. Better bet might be to get two WH's, but feed half the house with one, and half with the other. Dumping already hot water into a hot water heater won't make it that much more hot (if any).

More to come on the bathroom addition. I'm off to work, but be back tonight.


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Old 05-26-2005, 04:34 PM   #3
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I see I haven't missed much :D

You could write a book on adding a bathroom to a house, especially in the form of a bona-fide addition (new slab, ext. walls, roof, etc). However here are some things to remember during planning and building and you can post back any specific questions or problems you may have.

Special Electrical Requirements:
Bathrooms are required to have GFCI circuits or receptacles and the circuit must be dedicated to THAT room only.

Plumbing Considerations:
The obvious, water in, water out, no leaks. If you know how to do it, good, if not you can learn, it's not rocket science but it's not exactly easy either. 3" waste line minimum for the toilet (4" is better), 1 1/2" for the sink/tub (2" is better). The fewer turns in the drain line, the better off you'll be (more on the tiolet than the sink/tub). The vent would be just as easy to take out the roof (since it's yet to be built) as it would be to run into an existing vent.

Building Considerations:
You may want 2x6 walls even on interior walls, for insulation. Alot of people don't think about how loud water running in a tub, a hair dryer, radio during a shower, etc can be, until it's too late. If you even think it MIGHT be a problem, doing it now is much cheaper than later.
Bathroom floors often (or at least sometimes) have ceramic or stone for flooring. Build accordingly, ceramic requires L360 and natural stone requires L720. In either case, that's pretty stiff. If that's something you're interested in I can give more details (again...a small book would be possible, but not necessary if you want, for instance, vinyl)

I'll keep thinking and post anything else I think of. I'm sure others will be along here sometime with their thoughts. Good luck, post back any questions, problems, etc.

EDIT: Im beginning to wonder about the 1 1/2" drain for a tub. I think it might be 2" min. by code. Either way with 2" you'd be safe.

Last edited by jproffer; 05-26-2005 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 05-28-2005, 06:51 AM   #4
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1.5" for sinks. 2" for tub/showers, in most places. 3"-4" for toilets (12" center of flange out from finished wall (allow for thickness of wallboard, tile, etc. out from framing). Flange anchored on top of finished flooring level with only thickness of flange above finished flooring).
Electrical: Dedicated GFCI receptacle circuit (20 amp breaker, 12/2-with-ground wire, GFCI receptacle in first box on circuit will make all past it GFCI. Lighting circuit...overhead light, mirror vanity lights, high CFM exhaust fan..15 amp/14/2 circuit should do, but I would go ahead with 20 amp/12/2wg since you're running a new circuit).
Plumbing: As described by jproffer. All drain lines vented after traps (toilet has built-in trap..main stack vent).
If it were me, I would use pressure-treated lumber and plywood for the new bathroom floor joists (2X8" or 2X10"), subfloor (3/4"), and flooring (5/8"), Sooner or later, you will have a water leak. P-T may discolor, but won't rot.
Check with your Building Inspection Department for local codes, permit and inspection requirements before beginning. Do all to code. Improper non-code structural and mechanical systems can negate homeowner's insurance claims, prevent sale until corrected, etc.
Get a book on adding bathrooms at a big box. We'll be glad to help you as you go. Ballpark estimate: $75 per square foot turn-key here for new addition bathroom. Major DIY project.
Good Luck!
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