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Old 09-18-2011, 08:12 PM   #1
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Hi all,

Going to replace a few old drafty storm windows with acrylic sheet. What type of caulk should I use (or not use) around the edges? Not sure if some kinds of common caulk will damage/interact with the acrylic sheets. Appreciate any info.

thanks, Jay

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Old 09-18-2011, 09:37 PM   #2
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Apparently you haven't read the directions.

If this is a "winterizing kit" you are talking about, they don't use caulk that I have ever seen.

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Old 09-18-2011, 09:40 PM   #3
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Use Silicone it will be more flexible and will not crack with age you can it cleans up with acid-tone and rag
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:43 PM   #4
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Holy crap don't do that.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:08 PM   #5
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Lexan/Plexi-glass has no R value what-so-ever. Only purpose that it will really serve, is if you are trying to keep people from throwing stuff at the windows, to keep people from breaking them.
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:05 AM   #6
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Actually when they are attached with screws and a foam strip weatherproofing they do keep the wind out of an old window assembly and work pretty well but they don't require caulking and if they did 100% silicone would be the worst thing to use.
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Old 09-19-2011, 10:04 AM   #7
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When I did the front door & basement windows, I used Window Glazing in a caulking tube. I only used Lexan, due to we had a bunch of break ins a couple of years ago, and I was trying to deter. I learned a lesson though about how poor they are, especially due to convection. It is like leaving the window or door open, which is why I used foil faced foam board over the basement windows, and as for the front door, that is getting replaced some time next year, same as our back door.

Never again, will I use Lexan for windows.
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:09 AM   #8
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Thanks for the replies. From the last post sounds like my whole concept might not be good. I live in a 1920's farmhouse. I think someone replaced the storm windows with cheap ones around 1965. I live in a very windy rural area where my house is completely exposed to the wind. In the winter the curtains actually move when the wind blows fairly strong (which is often). I tried one newer brand name storm window but wasn't really impressed. So was thinking of installing the acrylic sheets myself to stop the draft. The window moldings outside are not conducive to attaching the cheap seasonal tape on plastic sheeting. New windows are out of reach, price wise, at the moment. Other suggestions??

thanks, Jay
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:18 AM   #9
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The clear plastics that I have seen will in time be degraded by weather. They will develop small veins and cracks and feathers and will become cloudy. But they can work if they are installed with a narrow strip of foam weather stripping used as a seal and then screws.

It's a fair concept but has its frailties over time. I see a lot of it done in this area on older farm houses and wouldn't be afraid to do it with full knowledge of what is to come. That product is expensive. I have no way of estimating the trade-out of the cost of the product compared to the heat-loss it will save and the resulting reduction in heating costs over a season.

Personally I don't think caulking the plastic is the thing to do.

The cost of using Lexan can knock your socks off so I would stay with the basic acrylics I think.
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Old 09-19-2011, 11:38 AM   #10
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Take the window trim off and use foam to seal any air gaps. If the windows have been replaced, but they never insulated the pockets that the weights traveled in, I would use rox-wool stuffed in to help insulate those cavities. Same around doors. I use the thermo-king shrink film plastic over one of my windows, that we still have a large room air conditioner unit in, due to I need to order a replacement window for that frame. We keep the storms down on all of our windows, unless we open up the house, such as a day like today, were it is cool out.

I use a draft stop sock at my front door, to help stop any drafts that may get by the door sweep. At our back door, we use a rolled up beach towel to help stop the drafts at the bottom of that door. I have also used this http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...626341.2627446 for our front door. Due to our doors do not sit flush against the jambs, I have also have used felt weatherstripping tacked along the frame on the top and lockset sides, to help top drafts that get past the foam door weatherstripping.

Also, placing rox-wool or batt insulation around the sill & rim joist areas in the basement helps, and sealing the attic access way with foam weatherstripping. Even though my home does not have insulation in the walls, the home stays at around 73 in the Summer, and 68 in the Winter, without having the hvac run continuous. It cycles about 3 times a hour, and if we set back in the Winter to 60, the home will stay around 62 at night, unless the wind is really blowing, then it will stay around 60, but the furnace never really kicks on at night. If it does, it cycles at the 1st stage just long enough to reach set point in aprox 20 min's, then shuts down for the rest of the night. Taking into consideration of all possible areas that drafts could get by, I have probably hit every area that I can. My heating and cooling costs are pretty low compared to other homes around me.
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:33 AM   #11
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Thanks for the replies Bud and Greg, much appreciated. I am at least going to try a little acrylic sheeting where I have a big air leak.

thanks, Jay
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:35 AM   #12
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


How big of a leak is it? There may be another way to stop. Can you post a picture of the problem?
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:02 AM   #13
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Even tho I am opposed to using caulk in such a situation I can tell you there does exist a "clear caulk" that can be used on window sashes that will seal any cracks and leakage and at the same time is later peel-able for removal without leaving any permanent remnants or damage.
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:37 PM   #14
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
How big of a leak is it? There may be another way to stop. Can you post a picture of the problem?
The storm windows are so cheap that wind comes in right though them where windows/sections of the windows join. When it rains hard and the wind is blowing into the windows lots of water gets inside the storm windows. It would be almost impossible to take a good picture. Just imagine 45 year old super cheap storm windows with such bad fit and finish that they are basically useless.

My really tacky plan is to now just silicon caulk all the areas of the storm windows that might leak. This will make it impossible to open the windows. But I only open a couple of windows where my whole house evaporative cooler air exits. And there I have newer, slightly better storm windows.

I understand this is really a tacky solution but these windows are so bad the only thing they are good for is to be replaced with real windows someday. So in the mean time I will just seal them up the best I can and just be out the cost of the caulk. Hopefully in a couple of years I can spring for some real double pane windows.

Will be interesting to see what comments I get on this delightful idea.

thank, Jay
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Old 09-22-2011, 01:06 PM   #15
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acrylic sheet, what kind of caulk?


Haven't I taught you anything?

Alrighty then...tacky it is.

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