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cobalt246 02-12-2006 08:14 PM

36'X40'X16' Building
I have cleared trees & brush and am deciding exactly how I will build it. I just need to clear up a few city code issues.

I am deciding on a normal footing, pier footing or post method.

How long will those treated,tripled & coated 2"x8" posts in the ground last?

BTW, I will have wood siding & shingled roof.

jproffer 02-12-2006 09:27 PM

Not as long as concrete will:D The cost difference will be recovered when you only have to build it once.

cobalt246 02-12-2006 09:38 PM

Thanks, pier or footing then. What is the best way to attach the post to the pier?

How long would it last? The post in ground that is.

jproffer 02-12-2006 10:47 PM

use these or something similar to anchor the posts to the concrete. Bottom, right side of the linked page, model FPB, is what I would use (and have great).

Life of a buried post depends on alot of factors: What is the post sitting on (directly)? How much water gets to the post? long does it stay before it drains away? What type post (what type treatment)? And, even if I knew the answers to all of that, I, personally, still wouldn't know the answer to your question...not enough experience to even guess.

IHI 02-13-2006 05:58 PM


Originally Posted by cobalt246
Thanks, pier or footing then. What is the best way to attach the post to the pier?

How long would it last? The post in ground that is.

Trench footing. Costs a little more, but things usually do when they're build once. Trech footings are alot easier to install for everybody:D

tgeb 02-13-2006 08:09 PM

I would recommend a strip footing with a block foundation to get you out of the ground.:)

I don't like that treated lumber below grade. :(

A few rows of block and you're safe then you also have some thing to pour a nice slab against.:)


cobalt246 02-13-2006 08:42 PM

Thanks for the advice. Why not pour the footing 36" below grade to 6" above & 8" thick, to lay the sill or plate or whatever it's called on.

Why use the blocks?

Why is Morton Building so successful with the post in the ground?

tgeb 02-15-2006 07:49 PM


Thanks for the advice. Why not pour the footing 36" below grade to 6" above & 8" thick, to lay the sill or plate or whatever it's called on.

Why use the blocks?
It could be done that way, but I'm not much of a form carpenter. :)
And I have found that trying to hang a 2X8 over a trench and keep it strait, level and braced well enough to hold the weight of the concrete is a lot of work.:)

I would rather do a monolithic pour, than wall only. :)


ps. Not familiar with Morton's Buildings.

KenTheHandyMan 02-21-2006 05:43 PM

Just to make the story more interesting, I'll mention that I grew up in Southern Florida (which is a different state than Northern Florida :) ) and we built tons of houses on stilts right on the beach. There are houses that have been there since the 50's and I've even spent the night in the swamp on a little cabin with no dry earth for miles, entirely on stilts.

I'm not saying it is the way to go, but if I were building a house and cost was marginally a factor, I would feel comfortable building a home that would last me 50 years. Most of those homes don't even show signs of deterioration. Passing code is another story. In Ohio, for example, (and this varies from county to county) I couldn't get a stilt house passed for nothing, only barns for post construction.

Concrete will outlast wood, but you lose a lot of sheer strength when you don't embed the post in the ground.

cobalt246 02-22-2006 02:29 PM

Thanks Ken, I am finding that out. No posts on piers, in the ground for strength.

What is the best way to set the posts. Fill the hole with cement, to the top? Put a cement block at the bottom of the hole?

KenTheHandyMan 02-23-2006 06:42 AM

That is another topic of controversy. Some will say that filling the hole with cement will cause water to collect around the post hand hasten deterioration. Definately put a solid object at the bottom. Dig your hole and make sure, just like with footings, that you remove dirt and don't let any loose dirt fall back into the hole. Then go get a thich paver that will fit in the hole. Drop it in and set your post on it.

Set your posts with braces first for plumb and position and get them all set before you fill the holes with dirt. That way you can reposition if need be. You can then decide if you want to fill it with dirt, or cement.

The hole must be below your freeze line, which I think you're already considering. I'll try to post some more but my family is about to leave me behind if I don't get moving!

cobalt246 02-23-2006 01:43 PM

I am planning on 4' to 4.5 ' deep since the walls will be 16', we need to be 36" in KS for frost. Thanks, I will put the paver down.

Dirt or cement? caulk around the post?

IHI 02-23-2006 04:59 PM

Granted codes are different everywhere, but here a footing of this nature MUST have a kick out at the base of the hole, so if footing hole is 10" the last 4 inches needs to be 14". Once inspector has passed that we need to pour concrete in to a depth of 8" thick. THEN the post can be set on the newly poured footing. Just imagine a cone shape or tee pee and you get the idea.

Deisgn wise the footing has a greater area (footprint) to distribuate the weight and is thick enough to handle the load being set upon it...I thick normal pavers use a much lighter weight concrete-1500-2000psi maybe so strength wise they're half of what typical footing are poured with at 4000psi minimum, just last year I started using 5000psi concrete for piece of mind, overkill yes, but I dont have to worry about it ever:)

KenTheHandyMan 02-25-2006 09:15 PM

The 'kick out' is actually a good way to go as well and the requirement for it is determined by code.

To concrete or not to concrete...that is the question. I don't know if I can give you a sound answer. There are many arguments that concrete hastens the deterioration of the wood by not giving proper drainage, like soil does. The concrete lends greater embedding strength and weight, which might save your bacon in high wind...very high wind (we're not in Kansas any more Toto). You'll have to make your own call on it. Were I to do it for myself...(drum roll please)...dirt!

I don't believe the caulk will help you at all.

Note on the 'kick out' should you be forced or choose to do it. If you're using an auger, I think you have to drill the hole, then pull it out and use a post hold digger to 'bell it out' at the bottom.

dustoff17 02-25-2006 10:25 PM

The tax man is at the door
Before you get caught pouring a solid floor, check with the locals. In most KS counties, once you put in a solid floor, it is considered a "structure". If it's within a certain distance from your house, it becomes an "attachment to the house" (eventhough it may not be physically attached). Both of these are taxable. The latter could effect not only your mortgage (tax escrow) but your tax refund.:mad:

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