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Old 09-12-2011, 05:54 PM   #16
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3.5" lally column vs 6"x6" post


Check with the local builder supplies http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=...&cop=&ei=UTF-8 They are the ones that are going to have them. I know that it is not the norm to have basements and crawls in Texas, but yes, you should be able to get them.

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Old 09-12-2011, 06:13 PM   #17
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3.5" lally column vs 6"x6" post


Lack of success with that hunt is what lead me to originally consider brick or wood. Since wood can't support the load, and I can't find a steel post locally at a reasonable price, looks like I'm stuck building this thing out of brick or cinder-blocks.

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Check with the local builder supplies http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=...&cop=&ei=UTF-8 They are the ones that are going to have them. I know that it is not the norm to have basements and crawls in Texas, but yes, you should be able to get them.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:17 PM   #18
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3.5" lally column vs 6"x6" post


Structurally, I wouldn't do it out of brick or concrete block. And yes, the columns are expensive. There is a reason why they cost that much, especially for the Lally's. For the cost to build it out of brick or block, for time & materials, it would be cheaper to get the proper steel support column.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:44 PM   #19
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Structurally, I wouldn't do it out of brick or concrete block. And yes, the columns are expensive. There is a reason why they cost that much, especially for the Lally's. For the cost to build it out of brick or block, for time & materials, it would be cheaper to get the proper steel support column.
If the columns were priced reasonably ($40-$50) like what I found they are in other states, I'd agree with you. Honestly, if the $40 post joed listed was available at HD, I'd just buy that and call it a day; but the cheapest ones I've found so far would be getting them custom built at a fabrication shop for about $120. It'd be much cheaper to build a cinder block pier and fill it with cement, around $45 or so.

I'm going to try calling some more steel fabrication shops tomorrow and hope for the best.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:47 PM   #20
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3.5" lally column vs 6"x6" post


Check the habitat store in your area, or with a shop that does stuff like custom steel work. They may be able to spec out the proper piping with plate for you. Or even check e-Bay. Some local contractors also may have some lally's left over from a job, that may advertise them in a local shopper. Right now I have an offer for a Lally from a friend for my use, but it needs a new plate welded to the screw part.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:39 AM   #21
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3.5" lally column vs 6"x6" post


Making the strength calculation in the most conservative manner possible, the load bearing capacity of a 6x6 column:

Using the lowest strength value from the wood species with the lowest strength, pine, the calculation would need to use 960 psi for strength

Calculating 6x6 cross-section with 5.5" x 5.5" you get that a 6x6 post can support 29,040 lbs of load.

Wood shrinks and grows with changes in humidity. Ideally you would want basement humidity controlled, but if there isn't control measures like vapor barriers, drainage and if you have seasonal climate variation, then you might be more prone to seeing the colum shrink and grow.

Ideally you'd want to have whichever column you use anchored top and bottom.

If you're talking about the existing column being not vertical, you're sure there isn't anything shifted?

Adjustable columns - just want to be sure something is clear. The columns with the screw adjustment are allowable. The ones with the telescoping columns held together with the 2 pins and the screws adjustment, those are only for temporary use and not permanent.
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Old 09-13-2011, 01:40 PM   #22
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This post would be in my garage, humidity remains about the same year round, but there is a 60-70 degree temperature swing from summer to winter.

The girder has most definitely shifted, however it doesn't appear to have moved any more over the past year. Here are some photos from when I was asking about a brick pier Replacing support post

I think the reason the girder is bent is because the previous own had the column about 2 feet from where it is now, making a 10 foot & 15 foot span and the girder warped over the 15 foot span.

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Making the strength calculation in the most conservative manner possible, the load bearing capacity of a 6x6 column:

Using the lowest strength value from the wood species with the lowest strength, pine, the calculation would need to use 960 psi for strength

Calculating 6x6 cross-section with 5.5" x 5.5" you get that a 6x6 post can support 29,040 lbs of load.

Wood shrinks and grows with changes in humidity. Ideally you would want basement humidity controlled, but if there isn't control measures like vapor barriers, drainage and if you have seasonal climate variation, then you might be more prone to seeing the colum shrink and grow.

Ideally you'd want to have whichever column you use anchored top and bottom.

If you're talking about the existing column being not vertical, you're sure there isn't anything shifted?

Adjustable columns - just want to be sure something is clear. The columns with the screw adjustment are allowable. The ones with the telescoping columns held together with the 2 pins and the screws adjustment, those are only for temporary use and not permanent.
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:22 AM   #23
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3.5" lally column vs 6"x6" post


Looking at that other thread, things don't look right at the beam to the point I'd be considering whether the beam might be in need of rebuilding. I might just be crazy.

A problem of the current structure is that spanning 25 feet with a single mid-span support means that necessarily all 3 boards need to be spliced mid span. Splices should be over the post, and there shouldn't be splices on 2 boards that are next to eachother. I don't know if there are exceptions to that rule, I'm a lay guy and those are the rules I'm trying to stick to in my own project.

At any rate, your diagram from the other drawing seems a little odd, but I believe you might be able to get 20' lumber from a yard if you were configuring as shown so that you could span the 12' and 8' span with a single board, then the rest you'd be able to work with 12' and 14' lengths that are usually available at the big box stores (or get them from the lumber yard at the same time anyway)

More ideal might be to replace it with a steel I beam.

Ultimately, I really think a structural engineer ought to be consulted... For reference, I did that with my project of adding posts and beams in my crawlspace and for $500 I got him to come out, inspect the situation and provide plans. A project like this ought to be done on permit, and plans approved by a structural engineer is likely to be a requirement.

Of course the basics of the project is that you'll want to build a temporary stud wall to support it during the replacement. You have an advantage I don't have, the joists above are properly lapped so you'd be able to support the josits with 1 wall, where my josits are butted so if I was to be doing a simple beam replacement I'd have to support it temporarily on both sides.

Anyway, I know this is going to mean the project will be more costly than you had planned, but I really think you need to consider that those steps are going to be what it takes to get this situation fixed right.

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