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Old 08-18-2011, 12:01 PM   #1
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


Hi all, had a second story deck 24' long against the back of the house and 14' feet out built about 15 feet off of the ground using 6 x 6 PT posts.


Posts are placed at 7-8 foot intervals. The joists are 2 x 10s making the box and framed with 2 x 12's on the face. Pressure treated 5/4 x 6 Yella wood (screwed in) used for the decking surface.

It feels like there is too much bounce and things rattle when anyone walks on it. I have already put blocking below at about 3.5, 7, and 10.5 feet.

The 2 x 10's are at 16" on center and I did discuss with the contractor that I wondered if 12 inch on center would be better but he said it wouldn't be necessary!! So now I'm stuck. Even after painting the Yella wood it sucks and I have already had their representative look at the poor quality 5/4's that have buckled, bent, curled, leached copper preservative discoloring the wood and not to mention all the knots and splits

. His only offer was to give me more of the same crappy wood (6 pieces) to try and "patch" them into the deck. I might have to take up the decking and seal the end grain (contractor didn't do it) so the boards will stop shrinking and stretching every time it rains. A gap of 3/4's of an inch or more can open up between the end grain of pieces. I don't want to but if I do would it make sense to double up some of the 2 x 10's? Would adding 2 x 8's or sistering some 2 x 6's help strengthen the deck??

left messages with the contractor but has yet to return my calls.

thanks

Walt

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Last edited by oh'mike; 08-18-2011 at 12:05 PM. Reason: added spaces ----
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:05 PM   #2
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


A picture would help----

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Old 08-18-2011, 12:21 PM   #3
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


Hi oh'mike, I will try but the sad truth is I am currently laid up with a broken ankle in a cast that I've been told not to walk on "for any reason" I was attempting to paint the underside of said deck with a airless sprayer but the tip was too big and I had a lot of overspray.

I changed out the tip but the platform I had rigged up was slippery ( saw horses and plywood tops) I caught my foot and fell off of the platform. Doc says it will be a few weeks before I can work around the house again.

So all you DIY'er don't do what I've done. Should have stopped and let the overspray dry before continuing but I never realized just how slippery/wet it was. Hurts like Hell and now I'm falling way behind on projects.

Walt
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:30 PM   #4
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


Yikes!!!

Sorry to hear that--

We have several good engineers and a couple of very experienced deck builders here---

One of them will check in after work---

If the post falls back in the pile---bump it to the top by adding more details.

P.S.--Add spaces using the 'enter key' --easy to read posts get the most attention.---Mike--
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Old 08-18-2011, 12:49 PM   #5
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


If MY engineer had drawn up the plans, those would have been 2x12's, not 2x10's for the joists.
That could account for a lot of the 'bounce'?

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Old 08-18-2011, 01:56 PM   #6
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


Put a drop girder half way from the house out to take the bounce out. That is a pretty good span without support.
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Old 08-18-2011, 02:39 PM   #7
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


jiju1943, I'm trying to upload a couple pictures but in the mean time. I'm not sure I have the height to put a girder across. The long range goal is to have this second floor deck open to the weather above BUT the first floor will be closed to the weather with french doors making this a 3 - 4 season room here in Tennessee. This house is our second home located in Coalmont Tenn 37313. So somehow I need to put in a ceiling for the first floor and keep as much height between floors as possible. I didn't want to put in a lot of building material on the first floor trying to use as much windows as I could but I might have to sacrifice view for structure to help hold up the second floor.

OK here is one picture from the side. Not very clear but you should be able to see that I have septic tanks that will make up the first floor foundation as well as be the cisterns for catching rain water and a simple solar how water storage system utilizing 4 solar hot water panels. They weren't able to put the septic tanks down far enough, promised they could but brought silly little hammer drill to get through the sandstone/limestone up here. After 12 hours this the best they could do before I told them to get lost!. Have just enough room to put a layer of PT plywood vapor barrier and 2 inch pavers for the floor.

thanks

Walt
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:44 PM   #8
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


I don't see any diagonal bracing between the deck and the posts.

Your 'bounce' might be 'sway' add diagonal braces (even temporary ones) and see if the problem persists.

There was a thread about that a few days back---anyone remember the name of the thread?
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:12 PM   #9
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


Here is the thread---Deck Swaying Too Much...help Needed - Carpentry - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum
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Old 08-18-2011, 11:49 PM   #10
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


thanks oh'mike i will try the cross bracing but it feels more like bounce. I do have the stairs running down the far side that I though would help with any lateral sway.
I had a deck on the last house that suffered from the same issue. It wasn't as deep as this one but I had to eventually put a girder support halfway under the deck. That one was only two feet off of the ground so it was fairly easy and well hidden when done. This one will be neither.

That is why I was trying to come up with a decent way to fix by sistering more 2 by's to what is already there or worst case if just making them 12 inch on center would fix it. Don't really want to pull the whole thing down to try to replace joists with 2 x 12's.

I might have to do what jiju1943 suggested if i can confirm I have the room.

jiju1943 et all, what is the smallest dimensional lumber could I use?? Would 2 x 6's work or would I be better of with 2 x 8's or better?? I'm just worried about the overall height. I was planning on using some corrugated metal roofing secured a few inches under the second floor deck to channel the water to the sides for removal. Highest point of roof at center then drops to side, 4 on 12 should be good enough.

Plan on using a couple layers of the Dow R-12 rigid foam for insulation and then repeat the metal for fire protection,(will use 5/8 fire code only if necessary) ceiling probably just 4 x 8 sheets of luan stained and varnished. This should help keep the weight down. So I need a couple feet under the second floor to accomplish all this. Want to keep the first floor ceiling as tall as I can.

thanks

Walt
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:19 AM   #11
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


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Originally Posted by walt1122 View Post
thanks oh'mike i will try the cross bracing but it feels more like bounce. I do have the stairs running down the far side that I though would help with any lateral sway.
I had a deck on the last house that suffered from the same issue. It wasn't as deep as this one but I had to eventually put a girder support halfway under the deck. That one was only two feet off of the ground so it was fairly easy and well hidden when done. This one will be neither.

That is why I was trying to come up with a decent way to fix by sistering more 2 by's to what is already there or worst case if just making them 12 inch on center would fix it. Don't really want to pull the whole thing down to try to replace joists with 2 x 12's.

I might have to do what jiju1943 suggested if i can confirm I have the room.

jiju1943 et all, what is the smallest dimensional lumber could I use?? Would 2 x 6's work or would I be better of with 2 x 8's or better?? I'm just worried about the overall height. I was planning on using some corrugated metal roofing secured a few inches under the second floor deck to channel the water to the sides for removal. Highest point of roof at center then drops to side, 4 on 12 should be good enough.

Plan on using a couple layers of the Dow R-12 rigid foam for insulation and then repeat the metal for fire protection,(will use 5/8 fire code only if necessary) ceiling probably just 4 x 8 sheets of luan stained and varnished. This should help keep the weight down. So I need a couple feet under the second floor to accomplish all this. Want to keep the first floor ceiling as tall as I can.

thanks

Walt
From what I understand, you are wanting a room under the deck so posts for supports under a girder would be out. No support post under a girder of that length will make it useless to install as it will do no good, for a girder that long will swag under its own weight without the supports. I really don't know another way, other than bridging, which IMO won't take all the bounce out, they will only unify the floor.
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:25 AM   #12
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


I'm with Jim, bridging will help with bounce.

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Old 08-19-2011, 11:08 AM   #13
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


To me (if the description of the construction) is accurate your deck is within prescriptive code limits.

The lateral bracing across the front is a good idea but do I understand you to want to put a roof system of some sort under the deck?

Think long and hard about how that will go together, maybe start a new thread on that one?

Andy.
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Old 08-19-2011, 02:03 PM   #14
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


Hi all thanks for the suggestions.

Question in bridging. What is it. It also called blocking or is that something else?

I have already done extensive blocking at three points along the width of the deck. About 3.5, 7, and 10.5 feet.

walt
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Old 08-19-2011, 02:28 PM   #15
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2nd story PT deck little "bouncy"


If you are serious about the room under the deck maybe you should think along these lines for the top of the deck.

I don't know this product but anything like THIS would be better than what you had mentioned about a roof system under the deck.
This is definitely NOT DIY but the rest of the construction could be.

Andy.

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