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Old 11-17-2006, 10:41 AM   #16
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I'm assuming you've done your research about backer board etc...

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Old 11-17-2006, 12:00 PM   #17
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Yep - I tiled the entryway last spring.

The original subfloor was only 1/2". There was also an 1/2" particle- board type of underlayment that looks like it was installed when the house was built.

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Old 11-17-2006, 12:03 PM   #18
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Will you be taking the opportunity of raising the toilet flange to account for the new floor height? Assuming here that your'e going with 3/4" ply and 1/2" backer board. They do sell a 1/4" backerboard, but I've never put that on floors.
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Old 11-17-2006, 12:12 PM   #19
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Good to remind her of that Ken. Too many people just go ahead and tile right over the plywood...not good.
1/4" Hardibacker is ideal for floors, as that is its intended application (they dont recommend it for walls). Light, easy to cut, has a screw matrix so you do an appropriate number of screws.
For the backerboard be sure you thinset and screw the backerboard into place. This is an important step that should not be overlooked.
Good luck.
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:53 PM   #20
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I used Hardibacker when I did the entryway. I used it because I liked the grid layout telling me where to put the screws. I suppose that I also liked it because it was thinner (and being a girl, it seemed "neat & tidy", ha.)

So, as long as you brought it up, lol...what will I need to do with the toilet flange to raise it up? It's level with the floor now, but with cement board it won't be, obviously. I have heard that people use double wax rings - is that advisable?

(I have so many questions!)

Leah
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Old 11-17-2006, 04:22 PM   #21
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Is the plywood actually down now?

What I do in a situation like this is cut the section of pipe with the flange off (just above the elbow) and put a coupler on and another section of pipe. Then cut that so that once the plywood and backer are in place, I can slip the new flange on. An important thing to mention here is you do NOT want to change the fall of the plumbing, unless you are giving it a bit more fall.

The double ring is done. I'm not going to recommend it at this phase of the project, but I'm working on a bathroom right now where the floor is in place and I'm probably going to have to do that.
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:15 AM   #22
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Is the drain line for the toilet made of cast iron or pvc?
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:03 PM   #23
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That IS a good question.
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:12 AM   #24
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I believe that it is cast iron. (Stupid question, is all PVC white?)

Why would it matter what the material is?

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Old 11-20-2006, 10:15 AM   #25
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Not all PVC is white. ABS Plastic is usually dark grey/black. The reason it matters is because of the difficulty with which making changes to it is possibly. Try to find out for sure as recommendations will likely change based on the pipe material.
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Old 11-26-2006, 02:59 PM   #26
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Cast iron is harder to cut and solder but a hubless connector will make an easier transition. Cast iron reduces the noise as water is draining thru it. PVC is easier to cut and glue together but you may hear the water rushing thru it.
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Old 01-13-2007, 04:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leahjane10 View Post
I am planning on ceramic tile.

Did the tile go down yet?
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Old 01-15-2007, 11:49 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenTheHandyMan View Post

The double ring is done. I'm not going to recommend it at this phase of the project, but I'm working on a bathroom right now where the floor is in place and I'm probably going to have to do that.
As you said, ideally you want to raise up the flange. Failing that though, I'd use a flange extender before a thicker ring. You may want to go on over to the plumbing forum for the flange questions, their are some plumbers there who will help you.
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Old 06-30-2007, 05:48 PM   #29
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Any photos of the finished job?
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Old 02-15-2008, 06:38 AM   #30
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Wonder if this project was finished?

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