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-   -   22x14 DECK W/ROOF SLIGHT SWAY NEED HELP FROM EXPERTS (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/22x14-deck-w-roof-slight-sway-need-help-experts-145653/)

clfdpops1 06-01-2012 06:09 PM

22x14 DECK W/ROOF SLIGHT SWAY NEED HELP FROM EXPERTS
 
I'm new to blogging so please let me know if I'm doing this wrong. I saw another blog, but it was dated 2011 so thought it may be better to post a new thread.

PROBLEM
I have some slight swaying/wiggling when you walk out to the outside corners of the deck. I want it rock solid so would like some suggestions. I DO NOT HAVE any bracing running diagonal on the bottom side of the deck nor do I have any knee braces as the 8x8 posts are wrapped in fiberglass pillars to that option is out unless I want to cut the fiberglass pillars.

DECK BUILDING DESCRIPTION
I am nearly complete on building a large deck with a roof on it that is attached to the home via a 2x12 ledger board and lag bolted in numerous areas.

I tend to over engineer things as you will see as I describe my deck. the deck is 22x14 with a roof on it that goes from drip line to drip line 26.' I put together some pretty decent drawings and have had the city inspector come out a couple of times to check things out.

His first comment was it was the strongest deck he had inspected. Local code is 30" deep x 12" diameter sitting on top of a 2' diameter footer. I went down 4' and used 2' diameter sonotubes all the entire length to about 4-6 inches above grade.

The bottom of the deck is about 11 ft about grade and I used two pressure treated 8x8s attached to galvanized plates with 12 or 18 inch j-bolts going into the concrete.

I have a 23 foot glulam beam sitting on top of these and pressure treated 2x12s on top of the glulam with 16" centers. They are attached with galvanized brackets proper size for the 2x12s. I was not satisfied with the small metal end cap brackets Lowes sold me to connect the glulam to the 8x8's so bought galvanized "T"s and placed one on the two opposing sides of the glublam and drilled a couple additional holes and connected everything with 1/2 x 8" galvanized bolts and washers and nuts.

Knowing I was up in the air quite a bit and that I would have a roof with the extra weight I decided to connect up the 8x8 posts that were supporting the glulam and deck plating to the 8x8 posts that would be supporting the roof, so I added 4' long galvanized bars with pre-drilled 1/2 holes and added those to connect up bottom posts, glulam and top posts. There is a total of 9 bolts for each of the two sections.

I then put two additional 16' glulams on top of the posts to support the roof trusses and roof. To support it from the house, I removed the siding and CDX and installed 4x4s between the 16inch span inside the house wall capped by a horizontal 4x4. Everything is screwed and down with lag bolts, and numerous 3 1/2 exterior grabber screws. Still not comfortable I added 90 degree galvanized 12 or 18" brackets and attached those with 1/2 dia lag bolts as well. The trusses are on 24 inch centers and blocked in numerous places and well exceeds code.

Deck plating is 2x6 redwood and has blocking about every 16 inches. Railing is all lag bolted down per code and in the corners out from the side of the house I installed additional 4x4 posting to both corners and tied together by 1/2 x 8" galvanized bolts, washers and nuts. The trusses to the roof are vaulted to where they meet the supporting glulams then they flatten out and were engineered to code and I simply installed them.

Can provide photos if it would help.

joecaption 06-01-2012 06:18 PM

Post the pictures!

kwikfishron 06-01-2012 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clfdpops1 (Post 934089)
Can provide photos if it would help.

Pictures are a good thing. :thumbsup:
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-a...to-post-12559/

Welcome to the forum. :)

21boat 06-01-2012 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clfdpops1 (Post 934089)
.

PROBLEM
I have some slight swaying/wiggling when you walk out to the outside corners of the deck. I want it rock solid so would like some suggestions. I DO NOT HAVE any bracing running diagonal on the bottom side of the deck can provide photos if it would help.

I Dont need photos. You mage the homeowners classic mistake, NO Diagonal lumber cut into joist before flooring or underneath the joist. So much for mister Home inspector that showed up..

I've built decks that cantilever over 4 feet and NO sway was involved. Afain its all about cross bracing in the joist. Then if there's any sway the Whole deck would sway then it goes to the post are to far apart or to thin VS height of deck and or looses Post bolted to footer.

clfdpops1 06-02-2012 06:00 PM

Reply to deck sway post and another question
 
Want to make sure I understand you. Are you saying is should have cut a diagonal 2x6 slot either on the top side of the 2x12s that support the deck plate, or on the bottom side?

I've attached 2x6s diagonally before, but never inset them into the floor joices (2x12s) that support the deck plate. Sounds like a good idea. Even though I've already got the deck built it is not to late to inset the diagonal cross member on the bottom side is it?

New problem today. I decided to get vinyl siding to put on the rafters, so off to Home Depot I went. They only had 12" x 12 footers. I've been trying to nail it up with a roofing gun and the vinyl is to flexible. Any ideas on how I can do this 2-man job by myself. I know with sheet rock you can rent supporting poles to hold up one end while you nail the other end in. Is there anything out there like that for hanging vinyl? Thought this would be a one day job....NO SUCH LUCK.

joecaption 06-02-2012 06:07 PM

What's 12" X 12 footers got to do with vinyl siding.
Vinyl siding is hung with 1-1/4 roofing nails by hand, not with a roofing gun.
Nailed to tight and it's all got to be redone.
Where's those pictures?

kwikfishron 06-02-2012 06:21 PM

You don’t nail vinyl siding or soffit with a nail gun.

I’ve never done or seen 2X’s notched in (let in) to the top or bottom of joist on a deck.

I’m having ugly visions right now.

Post some pictures so we can see what the heck you got going on if you want to get the most out of this site.

clfdpops1 06-03-2012 01:24 PM

Photos of deck construction
 
I've attached a few photos showing different views of deck. Looks like they did not upload. Most are over a 1meg. How do I reduce to 100K?

Daniel Holzman 06-03-2012 01:52 PM

The key factor in reducing sway is the use of diagonal bracing between the vertical support posts, in your case the 8x8 posts. The bracing installed between joists is typically X bracing, and is NOT intended to reduce deck sway, it is there to minimize the potential for horizontal buckling of the joists, and is often not used with decks.

If your deck has a ledger board attached to the house, it only needs diagonal bracing parallel to the ledger board on the outboard beam. If there is no ledger board (free standing deck), you need diagonal bracing both directions. The braces can be 2x4 or larger, typically bolted to the posts using two bolts per side (4 bolts minimum per brace), and should be as long as practicable, minimum four feet. Your building inspector may allow the diagonal brace to run from the post to the rim joist, check with them regarding exact design required.

GBrackins 06-03-2012 02:30 PM

clfdpops1

http://download.cnet.com/Image-Resiz...-10103729.html

this will provide you free software so that you can resize your photos.

clfdpops1 06-03-2012 03:11 PM

Second attempt at uploading photos
 
5 Attachment(s)
I think I've resized the photos to give you gents a good idea of my project. Thanks for the help in advance.

clfdpops1 06-03-2012 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman (Post 935332)
The key factor in reducing sway is the use of diagonal bracing between the vertical support posts, in your case the 8x8 posts. The bracing installed between joists is typically X bracing, and is NOT intended to reduce deck sway, it is there to minimize the potential for horizontal buckling of the joists, and is often not used with decks.

If your deck has a ledger board attached to the house, it only needs diagonal bracing parallel to the ledger board on the outboard beam. If there is no ledger board (free standing deck), you need diagonal bracing both directions. The braces can be 2x4 or larger, typically bolted to the posts using two bolts per side (4 bolts minimum per brace), and should be as long as practicable, minimum four feet. Your building inspector may allow the diagonal brace to run from the post to the rim joist, check with them regarding exact design required.

Appreciate your advice. I just posted some photos that will show the deck attached to the house via ledger board. I have the ledger board secured to the home with around 25 galvanized lag bolts 1/2 diameter. The 2x12's are attached to the ledger board with U-brackets that fold over the top of the ledger board and they are screwed to the 2x12s

clfdpops1 06-03-2012 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clfdpops1 (Post 935365)
Appreciate your advice. I just posted some photos that will show the deck attached to the house via ledger board. I have the ledger board secured to the home with around 25 galvanized lag bolts 1/2 diameter. The 2x12's are attached to the ledger board with U-brackets that fold over the top of the ledger board and they are screwed to the 2x12s

Not sure what you meant by "diagonal bracing to the ledger board." I think you are saying that on the bottom side of the 2x12s I need to place a 2x4 or 2x6 that runs diagonally from the corner that connects up to the outside rim (last 2x12) and screw or bolt that to the bottom of the 2x12s with lag bolts. Additionally, the two outside corners of the deck closest to the house that connect to the ledger board should have them and they need to be a minimum of 4 feet in length. Did I understand you correctly?

clfdpops1 06-03-2012 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clfdpops1 (Post 935365)
Appreciate your advice. I just posted some photos that will show the deck attached to the house via ledger board. I have the ledger board secured to the home with around 25 galvanized lag bolts 1/2 diameter. The 2x12's are attached to the ledger board with U-brackets that fold over the top of the ledger board and they are screwed to the 2x12s

Read your post again and when you talk about bolting the 2x4 minimum to the posts I'm not sure what you mean. The only "posts" I have are the ones showing in the photos that are 14 feet out from the ledger board. I was thinking I could bolt 2x6's running diagonally from both corners of the house out towards the posts. Ideally I would want to run them all the way out to the posts but as you can see I have boxes built so to late for that unless I disassemble them. When you mentioned bolting to the posts I would have to attach them flipped up so that they are not sitting flat up against the 2x4s is that correct?

clfdpops1 06-03-2012 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwikfishron (Post 934724)
You don’t nail vinyl siding or soffit with a nail gun.

I’ve never done or seen 2X’s notched in (let in) to the top or bottom of joist on a deck.

I’m having ugly visions right now.

Post some pictures so we can see what the heck you got going on if you want to get the most out of this site.

Thanks for your response. Actually I have not either. However, assuming you've over engineered as I typically do insetting the diagonal 2x6s into the 2x12s seems like a good idea, but a lot of extra work. The gent must be a craftsman although he mentioned cantilevering 4 feet. I'm going out 14 feet to the posts. I've seen a lot of decks and have not seen anyone who would go near the detail that I. Matter of fact I had four contractors out and none of them returned when they heard what I wanted done. It seems most professional deck builders just want to slap something together out here in Utah and make some quick money. When I build something I want it to be rock solid, last decades and look highly professional.


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