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Old 06-27-2012, 11:30 PM   #16
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1921 remodel


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I'm thinking.. How long have you owned this home? Are you aware of any other structural discrepancies ? As you describe it as a post and beam type home, I would just be making for Certain that shes solid starting from the ground up. But as far as your interior walls did you have any other questions or concerns? Seems like from your original post ya pretty much had the right approach.
No just wanted to see if I'm on the right track with how to approach this. I have owned it for oh 2 weeks, it's solid all the beams under the house are very solid and appear to be in good shape. Another question though on the west side of the house where the sub-floor meets the sil plate there is a 1/2" gap. It's not like that on the eastside of the house. Is that from the hot Az sun causing the wood to shrink over the yrs. Sorry for the lame explanations but I am a rookie lol What would be the fix to get that gap closed up?

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Old 06-27-2012, 11:36 PM   #17
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Hot AZ sun? It was only 110 today. lol and about your issue with the sill plate.. Let me see if I follow what you're saying. Do you mean the bottom plate of the exterior wall? That the wall is up a 1/2 from the plywood floor?
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Old 06-27-2012, 11:54 PM   #18
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Hot AZ sun? It was only 110 today. lol and about your issue with the sill plate.. Let me see if I follow what you're saying. Do you mean the bottom plate of the exterior wall? That the wall is up a 1/2 from the plywood floor?
Suppose to be 117 on friday from what I hear!! Here are some pics. First pic is of the gap in floor.
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1921 remodel-2012-06-27-17.27.28.jpg   1921 remodel-2012-06-27-17.25.34.jpg   1921 remodel-2012-06-27-17.22.58.jpg   1921 remodel-2012-06-27-17.22.44.jpg  
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:21 AM   #19
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That's a pretty sweet attic beam! I think I saw quite a few of those on the Cardinals stadium. lol About the gap in your wall.. As long as the framing is still flush on the outside of the home you will be fine. After you put your sheetrock and baseboard you will never even know its there. I would put some kind of sealant/caulking though to keep any possible air/bug infiltration. Are you ripping out all of the wiring as well? Looks like you're gonna have your hands full for a while.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:26 AM   #20
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or wait.. I took my 1921 cap off.. Is there a subfloor under the finish floor? If not, then you are going to want to push that back in tight.. I'm not sure exactly how they framed things back then.. Maybe an ol timer on here can give a clue.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:30 AM   #21
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Yea full on remodel I jumped in with both feet on this deal. The TWEEKERS managed to remove most the wiring for me and the old copper water lines. Gonna replace all the exterior Lap board with OSB and Hardie Plank siding, new windows, doors, floors. Really the only thing I'm not replacing is the exterior wall framing. Lol. I picked it up for damn near nothing so it is worth the work. You guys will be sick of me and my questions by the time I'm done.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:32 AM   #22
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or wait.. I took my 1921 cap off.. Is there a subfloor under the finish floor? If not, then you are going to want to push that back in tight.. I'm not sure exactly how they framed things back then.. Maybe an ol timer on here can give a clue.
It is 1/2" or so planks with the hardwoods on top of them. In the pic what looks like sub-floor is really the bottom beam. Make sense? That was my question, how do I get it to suck back tight?
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:50 AM   #23
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That's probably going to take a little bit of force.. I can't envision how it was framed.. How high off the ground is the beam? I'm used to having back hoes, forklifts and any other large machinery onsite.. Back your truck up to it? I've used some heavy duty ratchet straps to pull things in. Come along?
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:03 AM   #24
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The bottom plate of that stud wall is sitting on what?

You say there's plank subfloor under the hardwood? And that's resting on the joists that are (literally!) tied to that beam?

Is the bottom of the wall kicked out? Is the gap uniform along the entire length?

Scary beam!

Congrats on the new project!

They did you a favor of they stole the knob and tube wiring. Get it all out!
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:45 AM   #25
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That's probably going to take a little bit of force.. I can't envision how it was framed.. How high off the ground is the beam? I'm used to having back hoes, forklifts and any other large machinery onsite.. Back your truck up to it? I've used some heavy duty ratchet straps to pull things in. Come along?
I would say 9-10" off the ground.....

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The bottom plate of that stud wall is sitting on what?

You say there's plank subfloor under the hardwood? And that's resting on the joists that are (literally!) tied to that beam?

Is the bottom of the wall kicked out? Is the gap uniform along the entire length?

Scary beam!

Congrats on the new project!

They did you a favor of they stole the knob and tube wiring. Get it all out!
The gap is uniform the whole length of this wall, it doesn't seem to be bowing or kicking out, I checked it for plumbness and the studs are plumb. Just a gap. Damn tweekers did a half ass job on the wiring demo, lol they only took the 14/2 and 12/2, and left the old KT stuff, lazy turds didnt even get in the attic, they would of hit the mother load if the had a ladder.

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