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Old 10-16-2010, 09:19 PM   #46
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18 x 17 Free Standing Overhang


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Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman View Post
I have no idea what Engineer10 is referring to. The construction is solid, of course you could have additional bracing, but it does not appear to be necessary. You can certainly put more than 1 bolt through a brace without damaging a 6x6 post, the net reduced section of the 6x6 is minimal per bolt. I personally like to use two bolts on the bottom and top of each brace, that makes the brace more rigid (one bolt allows the brace to rotate), however code for deck allows for a single bolt.

Deck code allows you to notch approximately 60 percent of the way through a 6x6 post to connect a beam, so you can get some idea of how much additional capacity the 6x6 has compared to that which is minimally necessary. Of course, you are not building a deck, so there are somewhat different structural issues, but the structure you have built is not too different, and in any case two bolts per brace per side will be fine. Even without the bracing, a little sway for an UNINHABITED structure such as yours is not a real problem.
Thank you very much for the pointers and re-assurance.

I really appreciate ENGINEERING10's input. I'm not understanding where he is coming from with puting another header closest/parallel to the house. I can't because of the sliding glass door, which is why I built it the way I did.

Here's a couple pictures of one of the front posts corner bracing that I just finished. I made them longer and instead of nailing them in I bolted them. ENGINEERING10 recommended 3/4 which seems way too large. I went with my instincts and got 5/8 which is the same size as the footing bolts. Amazingly, just with the one side done, it's a pretty substantial difference. I'm hoping with the other side done, I can rest at ease.

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Old 10-16-2010, 09:37 PM   #47
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Looks great Tuff. An extra bolt on the top side at least would be nice.

Hang a plant off the braces to ward off a headache, table, chairs, bbq, and enjoy.
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:48 PM   #48
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Looks great Tuff. An extra bolt on the top side at least would be nice.

Hang a plant off the braces to ward off a headache, table, chairs, bbq, and enjoy.
Thanks Ron! Actually, I made them as long as possible without hitting my head, and I'm 6'3!

The wife picked out the color, we're going with Behr Premium Plus Utlra in a "Cinnabark". So I'll be painting next, then the shingles on the roof, then the stone veneer around the bases of the posts.

Any DIY advice/links/photo's on how to furr out the post bases for stone? Since I have the SIMPSON footings that elevate the posts off the concrete, I'm wondering if there should be a gap at the bottom to let moisture out?
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:21 PM   #49
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One last word from me, post in the painting forum about your paint brand selection.
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:25 PM   #50
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Any DIY advice/links/photo's on how to furr out the post bases for stone? Since I have the SIMPSON footings that elevate the posts off the concrete, I'm wondering if there should be a gap at the bottom to let moisture out?
Using pressure treated wood and PT plywood, nail a set of 2 x 4's to the concrete and build the sides out of plywood.
Use more 2x's to join the ply at the corners, plywood for the top.
Paper and lath mesh the outside, then mortar the rock to it.
A drainage gap might be a good thing.
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Old 10-17-2010, 06:36 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by ENGINEER10 View Post
There is no way this roof stands up for too long.

When everything is on the ground posting pictures would be nice.
I must have missed this post.

What exactly are you talking about??

So you want me to dismantle my entire structure so I can add a header where one won't fit in order to keep my roof from collapsing?

Do you want my roof to collapse, would that make your day? You are the only person in this entire forum who continually says my roof is going to collapse. Who knows, maybe it just pisses you off that people like me build structures like this for 600 bucks and you could have charged that amount just for the plans.

By the way, I finished the braces on the other side today and the sway is virtually none existent.

Are you sure you're an "ENGINEER"? I'm not trying to be rude, but it is really hard to "get" what you're saying. Please do stay involved with this site, I'll be posting pictures of my intact roof continually through the years.

If you disagree with ENGINEER10, please post - Yah or Neh.

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Old 10-17-2010, 08:22 PM   #52
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My two cents.

http://www.rocklin.ca.us/civica/file...sp?BlobID=2860

1. The City of Rocklin enforces California Building Code 2007 Section 105.2.1, which requires this project to have been constructed under a permit. This is an accessory structure (detached patio cover) with a floor plan area greater than 120 square feet.

2. Posts for patio cover that are not either redwood or treated lumber must be a minimum of 1 inch above concrete.

3. Any wood used in construction that ends up nearer to soil than 6 inches, must be treated wood or redwood.

4. The City of Rocklin states that depending on complexity, the city may require that a California licensed architect or engineer design and verify the adequacy of the structure.

5. Plans and documents required for the permit include connection and framing details.

This is just the basics. This doesn't include the nitty gritty details. There is also language in the 2007 CBC about detached covers needing to be 5 feet from any other structure.

So, what did the city say when you submitted your permit package?
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:49 PM   #53
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My two cents.

http://www.rocklin.ca.us/civica/file...sp?BlobID=2860

1. The City of Rocklin enforces California Building Code 2007 Section 105.2.1, which requires this project to have been constructed under a permit. This is an accessory structure (detached patio cover) with a floor plan area greater than 120 square feet.

2. Posts for patio cover that are not either redwood or treated lumber must be a minimum of 1 inch above concrete.

3. Any wood used in construction that ends up nearer to soil than 6 inches, must be treated wood or redwood.

4. The City of Rocklin states that depending on complexity, the city may require that a California licensed architect or engineer design and verify the adequacy of the structure.

5. Plans and documents required for the permit include connection and framing details.

This is just the basics. This doesn't include the nitty gritty details. There is also language in the 2007 CBC about detached covers needing to be 5 feet from any other structure.

So, what did the city say when you submitted your permit package?
I built a 1000 square foot addition onto my house. This structure was originaly attached to the house in the plans.

It took me a couple years to completely finish my addition. My inspector has been nothing short of awesome to work with. We ended up changing many things during the course of the building such as my floor system and other things we had to improvise on based off of unforseen issues with the existing house. (built in the 40's).

So I waited on this overhang because we weren't sure of the patio layout at the time the addition was being built.

My inspector is friends with my dad who has done quite a bit of work for him, so again he is a pleasure to have as an inspector - very realistic when it comes to issue.

So far he's been fine with the structure, he may want me to either attach it to the house and/or add some extra bracing.

We shall see at my next inspection.
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Old 10-17-2010, 09:24 PM   #54
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Depends on how good a friend the Inspector is to your dad..... He may get you on the p.t. to slab splash, the H-1's and rafter ties (not collar) on each rafter pair in the lower 1/3. (Seismic zone)http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=...h1W5lElSFXE4_w

You could get some water through the slab into your column framing, be sure to use a sill sealer under the p.t. wood and vent it: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code

pp.28: http://books.google.com/books?id=fDs...page&q&f=false

Gary
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Old 10-18-2010, 11:37 AM   #55
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You could get some water through the slab into your column framing, be sure to use a sill sealer under the p.t. wood and vent it:
Gary
I don't have pressure treated posts, they are doug fir. I have the SIMPSON 1 inch raised metal footings. There is no wood in contact with the concrete.

How would that wick water up?

In any case, my inspector gave the go ahead when we poured the patio with the footings in place.

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Old 10-18-2010, 02:13 PM   #56
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My mistake, I was remembering #5 below, the 2”, sounds like you are good to go. Keep us informed as to the Inspector’s requirements, if any.
R317.1 Location required. Protection of wood and wood based products from decay shall be provided in the following locations by the use of naturally durable wood or wood that is preservative-treated in accordance with AWPA U1 for the species, product, preservative and end use. Preservatives shall be listed in Section 4 of AWPA U1.
5. Wood siding, sheathing and wall framing on the exterior of a building having a clearance of less than 6 inches (152 mm) from the ground or less than 2 inches (51 mm) measured vertically from concrete steps, porch slabs, patio slabs, and similar horizontal surfaces exposed to the weather.
6. Wood structural members supporting moisture-permeable floors or roofs that are exposed to the weather, such as concrete or masonry slabs, unless separated from such floors or roofs by an impervious moisture barrier. IRC 2009

I would waterproof the post where the columns are to protect them from moisture. After a rain, with the sun heating up the rocks, water vapor from the earth under the slab (unless a v.b.) could reach the post inside and condense, similar to a house’s siding with an inward drive of moisture. I may be wrong, anyone?

Gary
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Old 10-24-2010, 06:19 PM   #57
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I thought I'd let ENGINEER10 know that we've had the first bad storm of the season with lots of wind and rain. My structure didn't budge a millimeter. No racking, swaying or any movement at all.

I thought you said it was going to collapse? If not in bad wind, when?
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Old 10-24-2010, 06:57 PM   #58
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thats the same attitude you got over at ct,like Ron said enjoy
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:34 PM   #59
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thats the same attitude you got over at ct,like Ron said enjoy
Attitude?

I'm sorry, am I just supposed to bow down and submit to every person that ever makes a comment? I've blatantly expressed my appreciation to the folks on here who have helped me, that's not a bad attitude.

This guy told me to post pictures when my structure collapsed as if he would like to see that happen. I think he is the one with the attitude Tom.

I can respond to someone with or without an attitude, that's my God given right. And I will enjoy!

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Old 03-09-2011, 04:11 PM   #60
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Hey tuffloud1, I'm planning on building a similar structure as the one you built. I can't seem to find the picture you posted of your patio cover. Can you PM me a link to the picture? Thank you.

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