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Old 10-06-2013, 12:55 PM   #16
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10x10 free standing deck


I'll explain every thing as best I can.
I am only building this deck because I need a ramp and if I just built a straight ramp from the door to the ground it would be really long and probably end right at a large tree. I built the deck so I could build a ramp off to the side and have room to turn the mower into the shed. This also makes it so that the ramp is only a few inches off the ground at the highest point. I have no intention of putting up hand rails or anything like that.

I have the 6 4x4 posts in the ground with concrete. I have 3 basically touching the shed and 3 a little less than 9' out from shed. They are all notched 1.5" with 1 10' 2x8 laying across all 3. I put 2 4" lag bolts in each post by shed attaching to the 2x8. I have 2 through bolts in each outside post with a washer on both sides and all bolts are off center (1 near top right corner and 1 near bottom left corner). Then I put 4 4" lag bolts into the 2x8 by the shed attaching it to the shed so the 6' middle section is attached to the shed just for a little extra support. Then I am putting up 2x8 joists 16" on center with hangers. I used the decking screws on the 2 joists I put up so far. What's wrong with using screws vs nails for the hangers? Each one takes 6 screws/nails I believe.

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Old 10-06-2013, 01:02 PM   #17
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Oh and my dad told me I was over killing it and I only needed 5 joists and he thought I was crazy for using bolts at all.
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:09 PM   #18
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Oh and my dad told me I was over killing it and I only needed 5 joists and he thought I was crazy for using bolts at all.
You're only going to get code compliment answers here (for the most part).

Haven't you got that one figured out yet?
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:33 PM   #19
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http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...loadrated.asp#
These are the only screws rated to be used with Simpson Strong Tie hangers.
Regular screws do not have the shear strength these do.
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:34 PM   #20
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You're only going to get code compliment answers here (for the most part).

Haven't you got that one figured out yet?
Yep. I know that if you guys are satisfied then I'm good to go with what ever I'm building. Lol.

Do I need to put pieces of 2x8 between each joist? Is that just to make the deck feel more solid or is that a structural thing?
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:36 PM   #21
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Blocking helps keep the joist from twisting.
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:38 PM   #22
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Also, how do I frame the ramp? Can I use the precut stair stringers from home depot upside down? To weak?
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:35 PM   #23
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Blocking helps keep the joist from twisting.
When blocking do you just cut them so they are wedged tight or do you actually put screws in? Since I used some old 2x8s from my old deck a couple are pretty warped probably because the old the deck was not blocked.
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:43 PM   #24
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Screws are never used in framing! (well not supposed to be used)
Use only ACQ approved nails.
I use 3' ring shanks for blocking.
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:11 PM   #25
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When blocking do you just cut them so they are wedged tight or do you actually put screws in? Since I used some old 2x8s from my old deck a couple are pretty warped probably because the old the deck was not blocked.
Bridging/blocking should be fastened to the joists. Code requires it, and even mandates exactly how many nails to use (for cross bridging, anyway). Oh, rats...there I go referencing code again. Sorry, Daniel.

Blocking does not have to be good lumber stock. Warped scrap lumber is fine.

Regarding what Joe said...never use deck screws for framing. Use common nails or structurally rated screws (e.g., Simpson SDS). However, when you compare the price of those screws to that of nails, I think you'll be eager to pick up a hammer.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:01 AM   #26
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I have a big box of nails in my shed but I'm not sure if they are right or not. The box says steel and wire 8 coated sinker. Its a 50lb box and says its galvanized. They are left over from when my shed was built. Are these good to use on the hangers?
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:09 AM   #27
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You need hanger nails for the hangers. There sold in the same area the hangers are sold.
The two long nails that go in at an angle need to be double hot dipped galvanized, not just galvanized and be ring or twisted shank.
http://www.mazenails.com/acq.php
What you have will not work.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:59 AM   #28
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Do they make them a little shorter since the side is only going through 1 2x?
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:01 PM   #29
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I got some nails and hung a couple joists before the rain. There is one hanger that has the wrong nails in it that I can't get off to replace. Any tricks to removing these nails in a tight corner?

They also had 1.5" nails approved for the hangers so it was perfect.
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:31 PM   #30
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Take the corner apart? Trivia tip; solid blocking is 66% stronger than x-bridging unless you add a 1x4 to joist bottoms (impossible in your case) then x is 167% stronger than solid blocking. Don't you feel smarter now, lol?

Gary

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