1 or 2 jack studs?

NCgranny · 03-12-2010, 10:48 PM

My framer has opened a load-bearing wall between my living room and kitchen in my 1965 ranch. The header is more than adequate (I assume) given that the constructed beam (double 2x8's with air gap nailed between 2x4's) is as strong as a double 2x10 beam with OSB filler. Hmm, I don't really want to know the answer to that. My question is about the jack studs. There are two king studs and only one jack stud on each end of the 110 3/8" header. Normally two jack studs on each end would be required for this size, I understand; but in this case there is a 3" post (2-2x4's) separating the 44" walk-thru and 60 3/8" bar opening . I know that this provides some additional support, but how much?...enough to eliminate the extra jack stud on each end? The post would be optional with 2 jack studs on each end, but that's not the plan, Stan! Oh, and just adding extra jack studs is not an option. Please reply with any helpful info or links ASAP...preferably before we demo this bar-tastrophy" again.

benjamincall · 03-13-2010, 01:12 AM

I'm not a pro, but your solution might involve simpson hangers.

I'm working on a similar task in my home, but I'm moving the header up to the attic. I found this information helpful:

http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=12208&page=2

Hopefully you arrive at a simpler solution, e.g., simpson ties.

jlhaslip · 03-13-2010, 10:05 AM

The post in the middle would reduce the effective span of the header. Make sure there is blocking and a support under this post.
Single jacks would be okay for a 60 inch window?

**Gary in WA** · 03-13-2010, 12:52 PM

Depends on the span and the load: http://ftp.resource.org/bsc.ca.gov/t...2_page0376.pdf

You changed from a distributed load to a point load. Did you install blocking (same height as floor joists) under the jacks? Did you post the wall/footing below to carry the blocking loads to the earth? Did you tie the kings to the wall's top plate and the built beam, to resist seismic forces?
"The header is more than adequate (I assume) given that the constructed beam (double 2x8's with air gap nailed between 2x4's) is as strong as a double 2x10 beam with OSB filler. Hmm, I don't really want to know the answer to that." ---- see above reference.

As Ben said: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/hh.asp

Be safe, Gary

troubleseeker · 03-13-2010, 05:59 PM

If you are definately going to have the intermediate support, one jack will be sufficient.

The header should be be fine in this case, especially with the intermediate support, but depending on the load above it, it would be marginal IMO if this were a clear span. Just for the conversation, the 2 x 8's built with flat 2 x 4's are not as strong as the 2 x 10's would be by virtue of the grain orientation of the 2 x 4's being on the flat, it is just a quick way for the framers to build the header to a width that will match the wall.

NCgranny · 03-14-2010, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by troubleseeker

If you are definately going to have the intermediate support, one jack will be sufficient.

The header should be be fine in this case, especially with the intermediate support, but depending on the load above it, it would be marginal IMO if this were a clear span. Just for the conversation, the 2 x 8's built with flat 2 x 4's are not as strong as the 2 x 10's would be by virtue of the grain orientation of the 2 x 4's being on the flat, it is just a quick way for the framers to build the header to a width that will match the wall.

Hello,

I have another question about the double top plate above the header:

Are the sections of double top plate that are above the header and between the josts of any consequence any longer? I ask because two 3-1/2" sections are missing from the upper plate where the pantry closet was removed; but, more importantly, a 12" section of both plates was cut out only 1/4" adjacent to a rafter. I don't know how or even why he cut it that close when a cut out of 10" on top and 6" centered on bottom would have removed all of the rot (caused by a leak in the roof around the old metal washer vent just removed). Anyhow, he patched the gap with stacked 2X4's and toe-nailed the bottom one (because it is resting on a layer of OSB sandwiched between it and the top flat 2X4 of the header, I suppose). I find this real disturbing; do I have a real issue or just a cosmetic one? It does look quite sloppy but will be covered with drywall along with the two 3-1/2" gaps in the upper plate, I understand; but that 1/4" distance to the rafter seems too close to me..maybe because our hockey team was named the "Hurricanes" for a reason. Please advise and thanks again.

jlhaslip · 03-15-2010, 02:36 AM

pictures speak a 1000 words.

tpolk · 03-15-2010, 12:34 PM

you say the beam is in middle of house but there are rafters on it?

troubleseeker · 03-22-2010, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NCgranny

Hello,

I have another question about the double top plate above the header:

Are the sections of double top plate that are above the header and between the josts of any consequence any longer? I ask because two 3-1/2" sections are missing from the upper plate where the pantry closet was removed; but, more importantly, a 12" section of both plates was cut out only 1/4" adjacent to a rafter. I don't know how or even why he cut it that close when a cut out of 10" on top and 6" centered on bottom would have removed all of the rot (caused by a leak in the roof around the old metal washer vent just removed). Anyhow, he patched the gap with stacked 2X4's and toe-nailed the bottom one (because it is resting on a layer of OSB sandwiched between it and the top flat 2X4 of the header, I suppose). I find this real disturbing; do I have a real issue or just a cosmetic one? It does look quite sloppy but will be covered with drywall along with the two 3-1/2" gaps in the upper plate, I understand; but that 1/4" distance to the rafter seems too close to me..maybe because our hockey team was named the "Hurricanes" for a reason. Please advise and thanks again.

Since the joists are supported by the header under the remaining top plates, this is really more cosmetic than a problem. It would not hurt to run a few long screws up at an angle through the header and into the existing top plates.