Wiring to shed question

k_buz

But that panel would be used as a sub panel being that it is going to also feed lights and outlets in the shed. Its not JUST for the RV.

rjniles

Agreed

It was an interesting discussion and I learned a few new things

I would love to know what the average AHJ would rule.

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k_buz

Just reread all the posts...hard to read long posts on my phone, but you may be able to get away with not installing a ground rod(s) if the RV box is not attached to the building.

Honestly, if the cord to your RV is long enough that you would be able to mount the 30 A 120V outlet on the shed, I would do that. The cost of a ground rod and a little bit of #6 would probably be less than if you ran the feed to a free standing pedestal then back underground to feed the shed.

Remember...Romex may not be allowed in that shed depending what code cycle you are under.

2011=yes
2008=no

Even if you are on the 2011 code cycle, you still may not be able to run romex without protection from physical damage. Also, GFI protection for any outlets in the shed would be required.

and as a little side note: Where is the GFI breaker for that duplex recept in this panel?

Burbman

Actually, looking at the photo again, that panel has a knockout for a 3rd breaker....indicating that it is intended to be used as a subpanel. Good point about GFI on the outlet, I always wondered if these power pedestals were exempt...I know you are not required to have a GFI device on a power pedestal for an RV. But it would make sense that the convenience outlet should be.

I may just bite the bullet and run the 6/3 and put a 40A breaker on a regular subpanel.

One more question: This shed is built on what they call a "skid" base, so it has a wood floor and sits on gravel on grade. No foundation or means of anchoring the building to the ground. Is there a code rul about having a subpanel in such a building?

rrolleston

Milbank makes a wide variety of RV pedestals. Just mount it on a 4X4 post and add a couple ground rods.

Here is the link RV

__________________
Please ask me about my special discount for people that shut up and stay out of my way! With Electricity there is the right way to do it and the dead way. Just because it works does not make it safe.

rjniles

Actually NEC 551.76 requires the 20 amp receptacle to be protected by GFCI. Some of the other RV panels I have seen use a 20 amp GFCI breaker or a GFCI receptacle. Also the 30 amp does not require the GFCI because NEC 551 requires the RV itself to have GFCI for the on-board 15/20 amp receptacles.

__________________
Location:
Coastal South Carolina

shockme123

if it were my money -code permitting- , i would run #2use-2 AL save you more money ,

Burbman

Can I run AL cable for this? Is it much cheaper than copper? Maybe #2 AL in conduit with a 60A subpanel may be the way to go....

k_buz

Yes you can run conduit and AL wire...#3 XHHW should be plenty.

Burbman

Could I run THIS WIRE without conduit? If so, do I need to have a junction box as the wire enters the basement of the house and connect to another wire type to connect to teh main panel?

shockme123

yes #3 al is enough i would up size #2 AL good for 100 amps up to 150 feet or so , reason is if you ever want to up grade your panel you will be ready . and yes no need for conduit if you use , USE--underground service entreance good for direct bury, now where it comes out ground NEC code says schedule #80

Burbman

This is 2-2-4-6 wire. So direct burial is OK, ans then I run it i sch 80 as it comes up out of the ground and then through the basement?