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Old 12-16-2007, 06:17 PM   #16
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OK....gophers get shot here, along with coyotes....moving targets are fun........
Stubbie, no worries, I have very good comprehension and understanding when explained as directly as you do, I thank you sir. Right now it seems the first order of business will be drop the 100 amp feeder for a more suitable breaker, 70 or 60...then before I haul in the big tools, pull some new wire according to your schematic & set up a new sub panel with disconnect.
'preciate it.........


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Old 12-16-2007, 07:09 PM   #17
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HI Woodsman

Just want to add that the disconnect can be a few different forms. First the subpanel can have a main breaker to serve as a disconnect. It can be a 100 amp breaker as the feeder will be protected by the 60 or 70 amp beaker in the dwelling main panel. So it simply serves the purpose of a disconnect as the 70 will trip before the 100 will if an overload should occur. Unnescessary cost unless you can get one of those economy kits that has the subpanel coming with a main breaker installed. Second you can have a main lug only panel. If the panel doesn't have more than six swipes of the hand in installed circuit breakers this can be your disconnect means. This would for example be 5 single pole breakers and a double pole common trip breaker --- 6 movements of the hand to kill all power in the panel. Tandem breakers are 2 swipes of the hand so 3 tandem single pole breakers would be 6 movements to kill power. Hope that makes sense. So once you install a breaker that creates that 7 movement you must have a main breaker in the panel or remote disconnect installed. This of course is the most economical method if not more than 6 movements are going to be needed. In these first two choices the panel must be very close to where the feeder enters the building less than 3 feet in many juristictions if not closer. The third option is a remote disconnect then feeding a main lug panel from that disconnect. It must be rated in amps to the breaker serving the feeder. these disconnects generally are rated 30, 60 and 100 amp so a 70 amp breaker feeding the sub would cause you to have to install a 100 amp disconnect as they do not make a 70. This setup allows you to put the main lug panel anywhere in the shop because the disconnect is located at the nearest point of entrance. You can mount the disconnect outside or inside your choice.

Hope this helps


Last edited by Stubbie; 12-16-2007 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 12-16-2007, 07:24 PM   #18
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That is good to know about the gophers. It's like "Caddy Shack" here. I have several runs in gopher territory for my waterfall. I pulled one gopher out of a trap that was so big you could have made a meal out of him. If I ever have any trouble with mine, the GFCI should trip. 2" is huge...
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:36 PM   #19
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As a financial planner I thought I would throw my two cents in!
One thing to find out is if your insurance would void a claim if it is determined the work was not done by a licensed electrition or at least a certificate of inspection. The last thing you would want to do is have something go wrong and then learn you are not covered. Call an insurance broker that doesn't you and ask the question. It might be worth while for peace of mind.

Good luck with the workshop! (i'm jealous )


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