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Old 03-06-2009, 12:25 PM   #16
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Wiring for new basement, design help


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You will need a light at the top and bottom of the stairs contolled at both locations. Add a door to your workshop from the stairwell. You don't need to bring your projects through your living room.
Luckily the house already has that, so i didn't list it in the diagram. GOod thought though

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Old 03-06-2009, 12:29 PM   #17
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Wiring for new basement, design help


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Is this a requirement to have a 3-way for the stairwell light (both switches at the top and bottom)?

Jamie
Check 210.70(A)(2)

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Old 03-06-2009, 12:50 PM   #18
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Wiring for new basement, design help


no 20 amp breakers with #12 wire will be fine. Be sure to use deeper boxes to make folding the wires easier. 100 watt bulbs is a bit excessive. No more than 75W should be fine.
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:15 PM   #19
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Wiring for new basement, design help


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Check 210.70(A)(2)
Thanks Jerry. I was just ready to do away with my 3 way switch for the basement and have the switch at the top of the stairs just for the stairwell light. Have to rethink this one...



Jamie

P.S. to OP, sorry for jumping in with this question.
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:17 PM   #20
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Wiring for new basement, design help


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If someone is using that bedroom they will want to be able to come down the stairs and light their path to the Bedroom without having to double back to turn off the lights behind them. Think about a 3way switch for the LR recessed lights with the second switch next to the PlayRoom switch. Also move the PlayRoom Switch (plus the second LR switch) to the LR side of the wall so you can flip it on as you are about to enter it. Add a second switch for the Play room next to the Bedroom door.

If you think you'll want to darken the LR for viewing movies in the media room then also add a 3rd switch for the LR next to the media room switch. Maybe also add a 3rd switch for the Play room there too since it is pretty open to the media room too.
This is good advice on switches and lighting and the flow of traffic.

As a side, I'm working on a downstairs mud/sitting room and I put in (3) 20A outlet ckts and (1) 15A lighting. My reasoning (1) ckt for the media, another for a 13A electric heater (wife just had to have it) and the third is for the rest. Could I have used less? absolutely, but I've got a sub panel in this room, the runs are short and breakers are cheap.

12' apart is maximum for placement in the area I'm putting the media, I ran 3 duplexes within 8' of wall space. Don't forget the phone, cable and speaker wires. Design it for how you want the rooms.

Just my 2
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:23 PM   #21
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Wiring for new basement, design help


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Ok, I refixed the diagram, putting all lights for the Play, LR and Media on the same circuit... I also added 3 way switches as suggested. (Is it ok to have 3 switches to the same light?

I figure 17 lights, 100watt per bulb = 1700 watts

1700w/120v = 14.1 amps.

Would you use a 15amp or 20 Amp circuit here (BLUE)? Seems like I only need a 15; but didn't know if its best to over compensate.

My plan was to use 20 Amp on everything; is that a problem?

Attachment 8797
A few things that will help you:

1. Home deopt has some really like looking compact bulbs that are made for recessed lighting, spot lights and such. They come in different color temps and the price is very reasonable.

2. For connections between 12 gage and the small fine stranded wires in the fixtures, the very easiest thing to do is to use a small insulated crimp on, with a Klien crimp on tool. Strip the 12 about 3/8" to 1/2", strip the stranded longer about 3/4" to 1", twirl it around the bare 12 gage, so the insulation on both wires lines up. Then get it so the strands don't stick out. Slip a crimp on over the wires, while it is held in the jaws of the crimp tool. Now crimp. If it is done correctly, it is a very secure connection, and very easy. I like the connections between larger (12awg) and small stranded wires (16-18awg) much better doing it this way. But you can also do the same thing with the right wire nut.

I run 20a for everything unless I have a reason to run 15A, say there is existing wiring I need to tap into that is only 14 awg or if I am running a lighting only circuit that has 3-ways and I only need 15A (14-3 is a fair amount cheaper here than 12-3).

Good Luck
Jamie

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