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Old 04-17-2010, 04:28 PM   #1
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


Hi

I already have a bathroom / light exhaust fan in my bathroom over a shower through a gfci - installed by an electrician - it is connected to a switch with a built in timer - so that when i turn on the switch both the fan and light comes on and when i turn off the switch the lights turn off and the fan will turn off after the time i put into the switch timer.

This is the existing switch i am using=
http://www.aircycler.com/SmartExhaust.htm

Now i also want to add a small 250 watt infrared heater ceiling unit but not over the shower cause it's note code but several feet away over the toilet.

I want the same switch to also turn on the heater when the lights come on.

The switch is rated fro 450 watts on the light side. The existing lights are 36 watts, so if i wire in the extra 250 heater i should be well below the 450 switch rating yes?

How should i wire the extra heater?

THANKS

This is the existing wiring see diagram=
http://www.aircycler.com/Literature/SmartExcutsheet.pdf

existing


new heater ?


or new heater ?

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Old 04-17-2010, 04:34 PM   #2
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


2nd diagram for sure.

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Old 04-17-2010, 04:40 PM   #3
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


So the 2nd wiring with the heater in SERIES with the existing light correct?

NOT in parallel like the 1st wiring.

Thanks again.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:11 PM   #4
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


You must have a neuatral and a hot connected to both loads, not through the loads. IMO diagram 2 is correct although the blue wire shown coming of the loads should be white although it is shown connected to the white.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:15 PM   #5
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


JB meant second photo as in the second of three, don't put it in series neither light or heater will work very well. I thought he meant the one in series as well but there is no way JB would say to do that.

Where do you plan on picking up this heater at the light or at the switch. Either case your white goes to the neutral and then pigtail the black from the heater onto the switched conductor and you will be good to go.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:17 PM   #6
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


Quote:
Originally Posted by brric View Post
although the blue wire shown coming of the loads should be white although it is shown connected to the white.
If that line was white how would you see it on the white background
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:23 PM   #7
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


Quote:
Originally Posted by darren View Post
If that line was white how would you see it on the white background
The same way it's drawn coming off the switch.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:30 PM   #8
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


Very true, but they also say to use #18 or bigger for the supply conductors so they are not the smartest people around who made that picture.
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:50 PM   #9
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


Quote:
Originally Posted by darren View Post
JB meant second photo as in the second of three, don't put it in series neither light or heater will work very well. I thought he meant the one in series as well but there is no way JB would say to do that.

Where do you plan on picking up this heater at the light or at the switch. Either case your white goes to the neutral and then pigtail the black from the heater onto the switched conductor and you will be good to go.
ahh ok so the 2nd drawing of the 3 = PARALLEL

I will take the wiring from the switch and do like you say like this [also will be using thicker than 18 gauge]

disconnect power 1st
1. Run a new proper 3 wire [b-w-g] cable from switch to new heater.
2. connect at heater black, white and ground
3. connect at switch new 3 wires to existing wires as follows =


Last edited by Charlie123; 04-17-2010 at 05:59 PM.
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Old 04-17-2010, 06:08 PM   #10
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


Yes, I meant 2nd diagram of the three.
Use whatever size wire that is sized for the breaker, 14 for a 15 amp breaker, or 12 for a 20 amp breaker.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:07 AM   #11
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


So i tried hooking up the new heater as per my last diagram and it all worked well, EXCEPT for when i turned off the switch, yes the light and heater turned off but so did the exhaust fan - it should have stayed on for the set delay time i put in it.

So i figure the microprocessor in the fan-light switch doesn't play nice seeing the heater directly.

So now I'm thinking that i could use a 120 volt relay which should not show much draw to the microprocessor.

Would this work ok?

Which relay should i get solid state or mechanical.
Which model, spdt etc?
Which specific one for yuou electric gurus?
i was thinking of mounting in the same box as the switch - i will put a bigger box in.

would any specific from this site work good and safely? like this solid state =
40 Amp DK4917
is the INPUT voltage Seperate from the OUTPUT voltage?

http://www.a1parts.com/relays/index.html

OR
Should i just forgot about all this and use a Simple digital bathroom timer i can get at Homedepot?

Thanks again.


Last edited by Charlie123; 04-29-2010 at 03:12 AM.
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Old 04-29-2010, 06:31 AM   #12
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?Wiring to loads to same switch?


Before investing in the relay and extra box in the wall, did you wire it up correctly so far?

That is, if you disconnected just the hot (black) lead going to the heater, does the switch and timer all of a sudden work correctly again?

Since the specs are for 450 watts on the light (untimed) circuit, connecting the heater there should have worked.

Relays can be gotten with a variety of input (control) voltages, you want 120 volts AC, and a variety of load (output) voltages and currents, you want 120 volts AC 300 or more watts to allow a safety margin. You want the load circuit to be on when the control voltage is applied, the term is "normally open" or "NO" for "off when control voltage is off". I think a mechanical relay would be better.

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Last edited by AllanJ; 04-29-2010 at 06:40 AM.
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