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Ocelaris 03-18-2013 10:47 PM

Wiring large In-Line Bathroom fan for 2 bathrooms?
 
1 Attachment(s)
We have 2 bathrooms back to back with no exhaust fans and I'm considering getting a single large remote exhaust fan instead of 2 smaller ones. The only benefit I can see is that I can just puncture 1 hole in the roof, but I don't want to have to use a 3 way switch for both bathrooms. I'd prefer to have those "timer" switches that run the fan for a set amount of time even after you've left the room. But I'm not sure how you would accomplish this. So it would be one one circuit, feeding a single fan, with 2 switches. Does this wiring diagram work? Or am I at risk of sending power back the wrong way? I apologize for the sloppy paint picture, just wanted to get something out there. Thanks, Bill

TarheelTerp 03-18-2013 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ocelaris (Post 1140471)
We have 2 bathrooms back to back with no exhaust fans and I'm considering getting a single large remote exhaust fan instead of 2 smaller ones.

I wouldn't recommend it.
Joining two outlet ducts into one roof cap is as far as I'd go.

hth

k_buz 03-18-2013 11:00 PM

I'd look for something like this...

http://s3.pexsupply.com/images/produ...om/mp140-1.jpg
The wiring you have shown would work, but I would put a timer in each bathroom. One of the disadvantages (and advantages) of these type exhaust fans is that they are very quiet. You can think the fan is turned off because you turned the switch off and can't hear it, but it is still running. Especially if you have kids.

stickboy1375 03-18-2013 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TarheelTerp (Post 1140477)
I wouldn't recommend it.
Joining two outlet ducts into one roof cap is as far as I'd go.

hth

They are designed this way, and I install them all the time, they have a 6" exhaust. I use the Fantech brand fans.

k_buz 03-18-2013 11:01 PM

I missed the picture of the timer in your OP. If you use a timer such as the one pictured, it may require a neutral so your wiring would not work. You would need a xx/3 between the fan and each switch location.

stickboy1375 03-18-2013 11:02 PM

The only wiring critique, pull a 14-3 to each switch so you have a neutral conductor as well.

Ocelaris 03-18-2013 11:16 PM

Yeah, Lutron makes 2 types of their countdown timers "Maestro", one with Neutral (MA-T51MN), and one without (MA-T51). Amazon reviews say only to use the neutral switched switches with panasonic fans which is what I was looking at. Unfortunately those switches are $50 each! vs. 31$ for the hot-only switched.

My coworker has this single fan setup for 2 bathrooms in his house and likes it alot, but I'm still not sold except for the 1 roof penetration part. Otherwise it's cheaper to buy 2 separate fans and run 4" ducts and do a 6" Y fitting at the penetration with backdraft dampers.

Thanks for the quick responses

stickboy1375 03-18-2013 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ocelaris (Post 1140500)
Yeah, Lutron makes 2 types of their countdown timers "Maestro", one with Neutral (MA-T51MN), and one without (MA-T51). Amazon reviews say only to use the neutral switched switches with panasonic fans which is what I was looking at. Unfortunately those switches are $50 each! vs. 31$ for the hot-only switched.

My coworker has this single fan setup for 2 bathrooms in his house and likes it alot, but I'm still not sold except for the 1 roof penetration part. Otherwise it's cheaper to buy 2 separate fans and run 4" ducts and do a 6" Y fitting at the penetration with backdraft dampers.

Thanks for the quick responses

I always shoot for a gable exit, I wont do a roof penetration, too much liability, it gets subbed out if its the only way to vent a fan.

al_smelter 03-19-2013 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stickboy1375 (Post 1140486)
The only wiring critique, pull a 14-3 to each switch so you have a neutral conductor as well.

It is NEC mandatory to have the neutral in every switch box (new/ modified installations). Otherwise, you can do exactly what you wish.

stickboy1375 03-19-2013 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by al_smelter (Post 1140587)
It is NEC mandatory to have the neutral in every switch box (new/ modified installations). Otherwise, you can do exactly what you wish.

Depends on which code cycle you are on, and, if he has access from above or below it is not required.

k_buz 03-19-2013 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by al_smelter (Post 1140587)
It is NEC mandatory to have the neutral in every switch box (new/ modified installations). Otherwise, you can do exactly what you wish.

That is only half true. Only if the OP is on the 2011 cycle and there are exceptions that make it not necessary a good percentage of the time.

stickboy1375 03-19-2013 07:01 AM

At least someone else around here has code knowledge. ;)

Ocelaris 03-19-2013 09:39 AM

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So I called Lutron, and their support was very good, and very quick to get me to help. The tech said that I could not wire two of these countdown timers in parallel, but that I would have to use an Accessory switch, MA-AS with the MA-T51-MN countdown timer. He said that if you hit the accessory switch, it would do the countdown timer function... so if the master switch is set to 30 minutes, hitting the accessory switch would run the fan for 30 minutes. The Accessory switch is only $25 so that's not terrible.

al_smelter 03-19-2013 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k_buz (Post 1140590)
That is only half true. Only if the OP is on the 2011 cycle and there are exceptions that make it not necessary a good percentage of the time.

Since we cannot know what code cycle anyone is on, when advice is given here, it would be wise to recite the latest code requirements. You can't go wrong that way. And in the 2011 cycle, the two exceptions will not often preclude the need for the grounded circuit conductor at the switchbox.

stickboy1375 03-19-2013 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by al_smelter (Post 1140779)
Since we cannot know what code cycle anyone is on, when advice is given here, it would be wise to recite the latest code requirements. You can't go wrong that way. And in the 2011 cycle, the two exceptions will not often preclude the need for the grounded circuit conductor at the switchbox.

You can go wrong that way, you can cost someone a lot of extra aggravation, money, and time. Its just bad advice to give out incorrect advice.


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