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Old 01-11-2008, 05:09 PM   #1
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Wiring help....new addition!


I've added a new addition onto my existing home. Basically it's 2 bedrooms up and 2 basement bedrooms. The 2 upstairs rooms will only have a switch, an outlet on each wall and a single light fixture. #14 wire should be sufficient on a 15A breaker I would assume. I shouldn't need more than 14/2 wire do I? The basement bedrooms will be much the same setup with the exception of having ICF walls. One question I have is how to run my wires in the walls. I've heard of melting channels and some use a sawzall to cut channels. I plan on putting 4 recessed can lights in each basement room. Do I need to run seperate circuits for the lights and the outlets. Should I make a seperate run from each room? I currently have 200 amp service. Any advice is appreciated!

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Old 01-11-2008, 05:13 PM   #2
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You need more than that. No position along the wall may be more than 6 feet from a receptacle. That means a receptacle within 6 feet of the door and then 12 feet apart along the wall. They must be protect by AFCI breakers since these are bedrooms.
Smoke detectors are probably required as well.

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Old 01-11-2008, 05:25 PM   #3
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Joed pretty much nailed it. You have to have a receptacle within 6' of a door or break in the wall, then none can be 12' or more away on any continous wall. Everywall 2+ feet wide, needs a receptacle. So, every room needs at least 4 outlets, and be AFCI breakers.

When it comes to smoke detectors, as I understand it today ALL bedrooms and all floors need one and they must be wired together so if one goes off, they all go off. They also must get their primary power from the building wiring and have battery backup. I'd spring for a combo Monoxide/smoke detector because it's being required more & more often (by local/state codes), will probably become a building code if it isn't already, and if you sell your house will probably be one of those things that has to be retrofitted anyway before it can change owners. So, if you don't do the combo unit now (and hey, it's safer) you'll probably have to do it later. And, don't mix models or brands. Whatever combo unit you pick, make sure you get a lot of that same one.

And, your basement bedrooms, they normally want 8% of the floor area to be windows, which isn't easy in a basement. A 10 x 10 bedroom they usually want at least 8 sq ft of windows (there's rules about that and it can be less). One window needs to be for egress so if the rooms in the basement ARE bedrooms they must have a window in them at least 20" wide, 24" tall, minimum 5.7 sq ft net clear opening, and sill no more than 44" off the floor otherwise THEY CAN'T be a bedroom. You have to do the math, although I said minimum 20" wide and 24" tall, that's only 3.3 sq ft not enough for 5.7' rule. If the window is 20" wide, to meet the 5.7 sq ft rule it has to be 42" high. Or, likewise if the window is 24" high then it must be 35" wide. They also can't have bars, strange security locks or latches (such as putting a dowel in a double-hung to prevent thieves) can't do that with basement bedroom egress windows. And if that causes the window to fall below ground you have to have room so someone using the window for egress has enough room to make it to the surface. These windows also can't open into a garage. Anyway, I went through all that and had a lovely time with my friend the diamond saw to make it happen. It's not easy to get a room in a basement to meet the minimum bedroom window code unless it's a walkout. Then, you get into the requirement that beyond the master bedroom, other bedrooms need at least 70 sq ft each, must be at least 7' wide with at least half the floor having a ceiling height of 7' 6". It may actually be 7'. But, any ceiling space under the minimum IS deducted from the bedroom floor space which may put you under the 70ft and can't be a bedroom. The requirements go on and on... this site does a good job of telling you the minimums needed to call a room in a basement a bedroom http://www.ci.minneapolis.mn.us/insp...-basements.pdf and I see somethings different than what I understand (may be their local code). I just went on a tangent, will shut up now. Make sure you find out what your local requires for a room to be called a bedroom.

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Old 01-11-2008, 08:52 PM   #4
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Old 01-12-2008, 12:17 AM   #5
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The distances between outlets are minimum by code, you CAN be more conservative and shorten those requirements as necessary. Not too many lamps have 12' cords on them. In my addition I preferred not to have extension cords but instead have the outlets within a reasonable distance of need such as every 8' of linear wall space rather than 12.
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Old 01-12-2008, 12:43 AM   #6
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i guess I should have been more specific in my first post.....unfortunately I don't need construction advice as the addition is already built by a licensed contractor. I would however like some advice on the gauge of wire that I mentioned previously...if it is sufficient and how many breakers I would need. I am thinking that I can put the 2 upstairs bedrooms on one and the 2 downstairs bedrooms on 1. I already knew the distance requirements for outlets and switches and am planning on putting in the smoke/co detectors. any ELECTRICAL advice is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2008, 01:02 AM   #7
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I personally use 12g (20a) for outlets and 14g (15a) for lighting on seperate circuits in any of my new home wiring. Something that might blow an outlet won't keep me in the dark!
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Old 01-12-2008, 09:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by handyman78 View Post
The distances between outlets are minimum by code, you CAN be more conservative and shorten those requirements as necessary. Not too many lamps have 12' cords on them. In my addition I preferred not to have extension cords but instead have the outlets within a reasonable distance of need such as every 8' of linear wall space rather than 12.
Receptacle 12' apart only requires a 6' cord to reach any of them.
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Old 01-12-2008, 09:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joed View Post
Receptacle 12' apart only requires a 6' cord to reach any of them.
True- I stand corrected! I just preferred the convenience of more receptacles available to me than the 12' distance.

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