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jelly · 11-12-2008, 01:43 PM

Friend of mine wants to install outlets, switches and lighting in his unfinished basement. He will not be finishing the walls so the wiring will be installed directly on the cylinder block walls.

What do i need to do differently than wiring on studs? I assume I need to run conduit of some sort. Are there any general codes that I need to consider?

Thanks

jamiedolan · 11-12-2008, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jelly

Friend of mine wants to install outlets, switches and lighting in his unfinished basement. He will not be finishing the walls so the wiring will be installed directly on the cylinder block walls.

What do i need to do differently than wiring on studs? I assume I need to run conduit of some sort. Are there any general codes that I need to consider?

Thanks

Yes, there are codes to consider. I don't know what you mean about wiring on studs?

You need to use ridgid conduit on the exposed walls, the common choice is called EMT, in 1/2 inch, it is metal conduit that is used for electrical work.

Jamie

jelly · 11-12-2008, 02:45 PM

Thanks Jamie, I just meant typical wiring on wood studs. Thanks for the tips.

**thekctermite** · 11-12-2008, 02:58 PM

Agreed, you have to use conduit to protect the wires from physical damage wherever they drop down against the cinder blocks from the ceiling or up from the floor. Horizontal runs need to be protected as well. EMT is a great option, and is reasonably DIYer friendly.

rgsgww · 11-12-2008, 05:50 PM

Use conduit with the proper fittings, you should use emt and emt to romex connectors. Make sure the boxes are bonded to the ground conductor.

A lot of people forget about the bushings or fill capacity. Make sure your not overfilling the conduit. Do not strip all of the sheathing off of the romex when in the conduit.

220/221 · 11-12-2008, 06:18 PM

I would use EMT connectors at the top of the conduit to protect the cable from the raw steel edge. Staple the cable cleanly after it exits the conduit.

I would use 4 square deep boxes and industrial device covers.

I would use 1/4" plastic screw anchors and minimum 1 1/4" long #10 screws

I would use 3/4" conduit with two straps on the block.

Ground/bond the metal boxes.

J. V. · 11-13-2008, 12:55 PM

Ever since I have used concrete screws I will never go back to anchors of any kind except "nail ins" . I love the blue screws. A little pricey but well worth the time saved. I think they make a drill bit/driver in one piece so you do not have to change from drill bits to drivers.

InPhase277 · 11-13-2008, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J. V.

Ever since I have used concrete screws I will never go back to anchors of any kind except "nail ins" . I love the blue screws. A little pricey but well worth the time saved. I think they make a drill bit/driver in one piece so you do not have to change from drill bits to drivers.

Try the "zamac" hammer drive pins. I used to swear bu tapcons, but I have had them loosen on me. A zamac won't come out. I won't fasten anything to concrete or block with anything else.

jamiedolan · 11-13-2008, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InPhase277

Try the "zamac" hammer drive pins. I used to swear bu tapcons, but I have had them loosen on me. A zamac won't come out. I won't fasten anything to concrete or block with anything else.

Those are what I use to attach outlets and switch boxes to my basement walls.

Line them up stright the first time, as unlike tapcons which are fairly easy to remove with a screw gun and nut driver, as Inphase said, they don't come out, even if you want them to.

-Jamie

220/221 · 11-13-2008, 08:04 PM

I refuse to use these because

Quote:

A zamac won't come out.

I do a LOT of retro work and I like things to come apart

Somebody, someday is going to have to remove it.

chris75 · 11-13-2008, 09:06 PM

I know what I would do, nail some 2x's flat to the wall and run the NM down that. Emt is going to cost more in material and labor. Although, most areas are not as smart as the Northeast, so your area may not allow exposed NM period. *dumb in my opinion*

Gigs · 11-13-2008, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgsgww

Use conduit with the proper fittings, you should use emt and emt to romex connectors. Make sure the boxes are bonded to the ground conductor.

A lot of people forget about the bushings or fill capacity. Make sure your not overfilling the conduit. Do not strip all of the sheathing off of the romex when in the conduit.

I'm pretty sure fill capacity does not apply. Otherwise I don't think 12/2 romex would not be allowed at all in 1/2 inch EMT, since I believe you have to consider it as if it were round and the diameter of its biggest cross section.

Gigs · 11-13-2008, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 220/221

I would use EMT connectors

You all are recommending these a lot lately for sleeving romex. As far as I can tell, they only come in 1/2 inch. You all ever jam two 12/2 romex down 5 feet of 1/2 inch EMT? It's no fun. I am using 3/4th inch now and it's way nicer.

I went with those plastic bushings instead, because they come in 3/4th inch (and all sizes). The 2005 code mentions a "nonmetallic bushing" as being acceptable, though in 2008 they strike the word nonmetallic, presumably to clarify that the EMT to NM metallic fittings are permitted as well.

220/221 · 11-13-2008, 10:03 PM

Quote:

You all are recommending these a lot lately for sleeving romex. As far as I can tell, they only come in 1/2 inch.

Electrical Metalic Tubing is 1/2" thru 4".

Gigs · 11-13-2008, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 220/221

Electrical Metalic Tubing is 1/2" thru 4".

I did a lot of searching and the EMT-to-NM fittings only come in 1/2 inch that I could find.

The plastic insulating bushings however, come in every trade size.