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Old 08-12-2009, 10:02 PM   #16
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Wiring air compressor in to shop


PDF] Choosing a Compressor

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nailer requires a compressor with at least a. 6-hp pump and a 60-gal. or 80-gal. tank. If ... ton before going into the storage tank. Two-stage pump Air is compressed ... For four times the money, an industrial-quality, 80-gal. machine .... at 15 amps, while the 5-hp Ingersoll-Rand's motor is rated at 28 amps. ...
www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDF/011164050.pdf - Similar

Sounds like it....
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:17 PM   #17
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Wiring air compressor in to shop


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Originally Posted by slogarage View Post
The compressor is an IR 2340L5 I ordered from Ohio Power Tool. I took some pics of the motor label but they were not too clear. I've attached one here.

The FLA stated on the motor label is 21.5 amps. The motor does have a reset button. And I have not hooked it up yet. I just finished mounting the tank. I will have it wired this weekend.

I too was concerned about the magnetic starter, but it appears that the mag starters are installed on the 3 phase models not the single phase which is what I have.

I also looked at the sears price, but went with OPT because it was free shipping, included the stater kit (extends the warranty 12 months) and I got an IR 1/2" impact wrench.

Let me know if you want anymore info.
If I squint hard enough, I'm sure I can read that.

This is unrelated to the topic at hand, but Sears automatically extends the warranty from one year to two years without the starter kit. (They don't even offer the starter kit for sale.) Of course, it remains to be seen whether Sears will even exist a year from now.

Post back up after you get it wired. You'll probably beat me by at least a full day, and I'm curious to see how your wiring works out.

Oh, and I'm still a little bummed by the lack of a starter. I can't help but think it would be good to have.
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Old 08-13-2009, 01:13 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by slogarage View Post
The compressor is an IR 2340L5 I ordered from Ohio Power Tool. I took some pics of the motor label but they were not too clear. I've attached one here.

The FLA stated on the motor label is 21.5 amps. The motor does have a reset button. And I have not hooked it up yet. I just finished mounting the tank. I will have it wired this weekend.

I too was concerned about the magnetic starter, but it appears that the mag starters are installed on the 3 phase models not the single phase which is what I have.

I also looked at the sears price, but went with OPT because it was free shipping, included the stater kit (extends the warranty 12 months) and I got an IR 1/2" impact wrench.

Let me know if you want anymore info.
Do you need help sizing the breaker or the wires? You did not say.
It's common not to have a motor starter on a single phase compressor of this size. But it's not a bad idea either. As Marc stated, the pressure switch is what starts and stops the motor. If the pressure switch contacts are not over sized and of very good quality, you will be replacing the pressure switch before you should have too. So, if you are relying on this compressor for income, you may want to consider installing a starter and external overload yourself. We can help you if you like. Good luck and GET BACK TO WORK!

OP. Whats wrong with Sears? You got a good deal. Thats what counts. You got a very good name in that compressor too.
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Old 08-13-2009, 05:05 PM   #19
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Wiring air compressor in to shop


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Originally Posted by J. V. View Post
Do you need help sizing the breaker or the wires? You did not say.
It's common not to have a motor starter on a single phase compressor of this size. But it's not a bad idea either. As Marc stated, the pressure switch is what starts and stops the motor. If the pressure switch contacts are not over sized and of very good quality, you will be replacing the pressure switch before you should have too. So, if you are relying on this compressor for income, you may want to consider installing a starter and external overload yourself. We can help you if you like. Good luck and GET BACK TO WORK!

OP. Whats wrong with Sears? You got a good deal. Thats what counts. You got a very good name in that compressor too.
I think slogarage has a handle on his wiring at this point, or at least seems to. For the record, we both have two-stage compressors. That's why I am disappointed in the lack of a starter. Everything I know about compressors says that any 5 HP two-stage compressor should have one. (Not that I know too much about compressors.)

Off topic again for a moment: Sears is okay, I suppose. They just always seem to have about the worst possible customer service. I know that it boils down to the individuals at a particular store, but holy cow, do they ever excel at hiring folks who know nothing about what they are trying to sell. Adding insult to injury, guess who you have to call to schedule an appointment when something needs service? India. Of course, they want you to describe the problem in detail, and somehow we never seem to speak the same version of English as "Bob" or "Pat" when we call. On the other hand, it is funny when they begin and end each sentence with "sir" while they are talking to my wife.

I do, however, like one particular sales person that works in the appliance department at our local store. She's our go-to for dryers, refrigerators, etc. She knows her stuff, and when we can call her and tell her what we're looking for, she can quickly make appropriate suggestions, and even discuss technical details! To top it off, she will actually tell us when the next sale is that we can take advantage of, and gives us a courtesy call the day before the sale goes in to effect. When we come in, she already has the paperwork done, too. She's awesome. I just wish they'd go back to hiring people like her to run the rest of the store.

Back on topic: I will be relying on my compressor for income. The death of my last compressor has delayed several projects that are meant to be examples of my work. Making the compressor reliable is a top priority for me, because once business is rolling, I do not want this kind of downtime.
I would like very much to add a starter and external protection to it. Also, I'd like to add an hour meter.

I do have one concern with hour meters, specifically. There are many 230VAC choices, but I'm worried about vibration damaging them. Also, I have found no surface mount options, and will apparently need an enclosure for a flange mounted meter. Suggestions?
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:59 AM   #20
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Wiring air compressor in to shop


The hour meter use on air compressor it should be not too bad but you can have it mounted remote if you want to if you are condering about vibrations and many hourmeter are tested with vibrations with gas/diesel powered unit they do shake a bit more than straght electric units otherwise get a digtail hourmeter they can really take a abuse with it.

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Old 08-14-2009, 11:43 AM   #21
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Thanks J.V. and Marc for clearing up the issue of mag starters. For my home use, I won't have the cycling times a commercial application would have. I can see where you would want to install a mag starter as preventative maintenance and reducing compressor down-time due to burned out switch.

For my application, I will not install a mag starter now. The money pit is getting deeper and I haven't even air'd up a tire yet. I do think, however, that I will be installing one in the near future.

I look forward to KAdams progress on his installation and will be taking notes on the info everyone will contribute.
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Old 08-14-2009, 11:51 AM   #22
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Kind of a thread hijack...

Can anyone explain the criteria for a disconnect?? I have read on numerous forums that if you can see the panel and its a straight line, you do not need to install one.

My question is, I can see my panel from the compressor (about 10'), but the wire routing is not in a straight line. It goes up and over and around, etc.

Is this what is meant by not being a straight line??

I am cornfused....

TIA
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:39 PM   #23
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Thats correct. If you can see the breaker panel from the compressor you need no extra disco. The breaker will be the disco.

KAdams. How about this starter and ball park price? The model# for the one you need is "ESWS-25V24E-RM33.
NEMA 1 Enclosure. No pilot devices. 208/230 VAC coil. 15-23 amp adjustable overload relay. All included and wired in the enclosure. ($100.00 - $125.00). Just mount, connect pressure switch and motor to starter (We will tell you how). I used 5 hp @ 230 volt to put together this part number. You can always adjust the part number to suit your particular unit. You will need to find a distributor. Weg will not sell direct to you. Where are you located. I may be able to help with a distributor in your area.

http://www.weg.net/files/products/WE...re-english.pdf

Good Luck. Weg 1-800-275-4934.

Last edited by J. V.; 08-14-2009 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 08-14-2009, 07:33 PM   #24
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You don't need a starter with overload the motor already has it internal. I would simply get a manual motor starter like this (below) and wire the compressor with 10/2 awg. thhn in conduit or use cable. I'd put the circuit on a 40 amp dp breaker. But if I had a dp 30 I'd give it a shot first....

Those magnetic starters with overload will be extremely expensive and really not necessary.

I would just get a simple 2 pole manual motor starter with enclosure probably 40 or 50 dollars and hardwire it to the compressor motor circuit. This one is rated 7.5 hp. and it will be a great disconnect for the compressor also. There are several manufacturers of these.


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Old 08-14-2009, 08:32 PM   #25
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Wiring air compressor in to shop


Let me add to Stubbie's part is the maganatic switch and yes you can get them without any overload sensors I know pretty good percentage of single phase motor useally I say useally have thermal protection if your nameplate stated have thermal protected motor then you are good to go however if don't show thermal protection at all on the nameplate then yes you have to get overload thermal unit/

Check out couple electrical supply centre I am sure they will have something like this on stock or order { usealy not very long at all }

Merci,Marc
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:46 AM   #26
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You don't need a starter with overload the motor already has it internal. I would simply get a manual motor starter like this (below) and wire the compressor with 10/2 awg. thhn in conduit or use cable. I'd put the circuit on a 40 amp dp breaker. But if I had a dp 30 I'd give it a shot first....

Those magnetic starters with overload will be extremely expensive and really not necessary.

I would just get a simple 2 pole manual motor starter with enclosure probably 40 or 50 dollars and hardwire it to the compressor motor circuit. This one is rated 7.5 hp. and it will be a great disconnect for the compressor also. There are several manufacturers of these.




He already has a switch. The pressure switch. He also has a disconnect. The breaker in sight from the compressor. Why add another switch? He said he needed a magnetic starter to extend the warranty to two years. He also recognizes that his pressure switch will be doing all the on/off cycling. A motor this size (5Hp) is going to really put that pressure switch to task. It's a commercial application. Thats why they recommend the mag starter. What he wants to do is extend the life of the pressure switch. The switch above will not help in any way.

I also think $100.00 or less is a pretty decent price for the starter and OLR in a NEMA 1 enclosure. Prewired. Even though he needs no OLR. It comes with it. It's not an option.

Last edited by J. V.; 10-09-2009 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 08-15-2009, 05:21 PM   #27
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That's fine JV if that is what the op wants. I don't understand how this magnetic starter increases the warranty. Maybe someone can explain....??
The 'starter kit" mentioned in post 14 has nothing to do with a magnetic starter for the 2340L5 two stage, it is not offered on that model. I suppose you could arrange to get one from the supplier.

If your wanting to save the pressure switch from the current inrush I guess you can intertain yourself thinking that mag starter will do that by only having to energize the mag starter coil. But I kinda think the pressure switch will do just fine cycling the motor load.

As Marc said there are magnetic starters without overload I have no problem with that.

I'm also not sure you have an on-off switch at the pressure switch, might be since this is the value model.

At any rate if it were me I'd locate a manual starter ahead of the pressure switch for sake of a nice convenient disconnect rated switch located on the wall. The pressure switch is rated for the inrush load of that motor. I see no reason to install a magnetic starter with overload for this compressor.

Now if you start getting up there around 7 hp and higher with single phase and high running loads I would bet they (ingersoll rand) put magnetic starters on as standard equipment.

The primary pupose of magnetic starters is to provide overload and low voltage protection of a motor. On 3 phase this is quite common due to lack of internal overload on the motor.

They do have a souped up all bells and whistle version of the 2340L5 that comes with a magnetic starter for what it is worth.

Again I do not think you get a warranty extension because you have a magnetic starter. I do think you get one if you are tricked into buying the 'Starter Kit' which is sythetic oil and 'better than the best' air filters...
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:22 PM   #28
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Wiring air compressor in to shop


About that warranty extension... Somewhere along the line, a few people got confused about that, and I can understand why. The IR starter kit that adds a year of warranty coverage is indeed only some oil and air filters. With all this talk of mag starters and starter kits, it's easy to see where someone might get confused. Adding a mag starter to the compressor doesn't do squat for the warranty.

Okay. Everyone on the same page, now? Yes? Good.

My compressor has arrived, and I am happy to announce that it does include an auto/off switch. For the time being, I'll skip the starter. Really, I'm installing the compressor some place where I don't want it, because my preferred location in in a part of the shop that has some structural integrity issues that will keep me from being able to install an overhead door for some time. I don't want this thing out in the cold, so I had to compromise. That said, the future location will be on the other side of a wall from the load center, and I will need a disconnect, so I am still very much interested in starter discussions.

The new compressor location is right in front of a 240V receptable wired with about 35 feet of 10-2 NMB. I'll either get lucky and it will work, or it won't, and I'll need to run a new line to the area. Let's see what happens when I run the numbers...

So, with an FLA of 21.5, it would seem the conductors only need to carry 26.875 Amps. The 10-2 NMB can do that, so it looks like I can make use of the existing line in the new location.

If I can go up to 2.5 times the FLA for the breaker, then that gives me a maximum of a 53.75 Amps. Do I round up or down for that? It's either a 50 or a 60 Amp breaker for the maximum. In the owner's manual, they specify a 60 Amp.
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:28 PM   #29
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Wiring air compressor in to shop


KA Adams #28. In the last paragraph you say that since the NEC allows you to have overload protection up to 2.5 times of the FLA, which comes to approx 53... amps., you'll round out to the nearest larger breaker, 60Amps. You have to keep in mind that the farther away that you go from the true FLA, you're diminishing your protection of the line in case you have a sustained overload above the LRA of the motor and the breaker will not open the line. (Now more than ever) Don't drink and Drive!!!
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:45 PM   #30
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Thats correct. If you can see the breaker panel from the compressor you need no extra disco. The breaker will be the disco.....
Only if that breaker is within 50 feet of the utilization equipment!!

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