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Old 09-14-2010, 11:56 AM   #16
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


Getting 120V but nothing works is indicative of a loose connection... enough contact to register on a meter, but not good enough to conduct any significant current. Check all connections, starting at the shed feeder connection at the house.

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Old 09-14-2010, 03:34 PM   #17
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


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It's called a "wiggy". And yes, it is the best voltage tester for DIY.
wiggins is the proper name, wiggy is what everyone calls it
http://www.toolingu.com/definition-5...oid-meter.html



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UF is direct burial cable and can be installed in conduit. Not the way I would do it. I never install cables in conduit. Never.
At my house i have my meter main on the outside of my house, and a main panel in my basement. They only circuit i wanted on the meter main was my sewage pump for my basement. It runs in UF from the small access room where the pump is located, through 40' of unaccessable space in between the outside walls and the foundation and then into a short 6" stub of pvc, through an LB and up 4' piece of pvc into the meter main. Your telling me you would run the entire length in conduit because 4' has to be protected?
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Old 09-14-2010, 03:35 PM   #18
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


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Getting 120V but nothing works is indicative of a loose connection... enough contact to register on a meter, but not good enough to conduct any significant current. Check all connections, starting at the shed feeder connection at the house.

it could also be showing voltage through inductance. It could be not even hooked up at all
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Old 09-14-2010, 04:58 PM   #19
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


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it could also be showing voltage through inductance. It could be not even hooked up at all
really unlikely to read 120 volts "phantom" voltage.

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We are working with DIYer that have a limited selection of tools and in this case they have a meter. I have worked in the electronics field for years and have never needed or heard of a wiggins meter. It may have a place in troubleshooting just as an oscilloscope does but right now all we need is a meter. Properly used, it will find our problem.
a Wiggy is not a type of tester you would use in electronics. Personally, I do not like a Wiggy tester (although I do have at least one laying around). They are not accurate enough for what I do most of the time but they do serve a purpose and they do that quite well. They load the circuit so there is no problem with phantom voltages. Good for people that do not understand the phantom voltage issue.


Knopp is another well known name brand of a solenoid type tester. Ideal makes several models of similar testers.

and a Wiggins or Knopp tester is actually quite inexpensive. They start around $15 or $20 I believe.
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:04 PM   #20
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


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really unlikely to read 120 volts "phantom" voltage.
it is possible, and ive seen it happen, so no reason to rule it out completly


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a Wiggy is not a type of tester you would use in electronics. Personally, I do not like a Wiggy tester (although I do have at least one laying around). They are not accurate enough for what I do most of the time but they do serve a purpose and they do that quite well. They load the circuit so there is no problem with phantom voltages. Good for people that do not understand the phantom voltage issue.
Just wanted to agree, that they would have no place in electronics, the ones that i've used, basically, just tell you if its close to 120volts close to 208 or close to 240 or close to 277. The information they give you though is reliable, its just impossible to tell what the actual voltage is down to the volt with them




the whole point is, the circuit needs a load on it, where your testing or farther downstream from where your testing
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Old 09-14-2010, 06:42 PM   #21
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


Might as well give my 2 cents on the wiggy. Mine is a square d but they have one issue that you need to be careful about in residential. They will trip out gfci's if testing a protected outlet or the gfci itself. Not once in a while but nearly everytime. So I would not recommend it to DIY or they will be popping gfci's right and left.
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:21 PM   #22
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


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Might as well give my 2 cents on the wiggy. Mine is a square d but they have one issue that you need to be careful about in residential. They will trip out gfci's if testing a protected outlet or the gfci itself. Not once in a while but nearly everytime. So I would not recommend it to DIY or they will be popping gfci's right and left.
only if your testing to ground
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Old 09-14-2010, 10:08 PM   #23
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


I think you missed my point.
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:13 AM   #24
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


I would start at the main panel and reterminate all connections.
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Old 09-15-2010, 07:37 AM   #25
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


Rather than use wiggies (tm?) and clampons I would start by using short wires with alligator clips, and/or a cheater cord ("extension cord" with plug and at the other end, nothing or a socket into which alligator clips can be inserted).

Measure voltage between hot and neutral, between hot and ground, and between neutral and ground, with an incandescent light of at least 50 watts connected across the same two places where you put the voltmeter probes. Measure both with the light "turned on" and with the light "turned off". These connections are for test purposes only, lasting at most a few minutes. Hot to ground should also light the lamp to full brightness and measure nearly the full 120 volts. These are the same tests that the little plug-in reverse-neutral-hot tester performs except by loading down the circuit with the incandescent light you can better identify loose connections in the circuit.

If the voltage drops significantly when you turn on the light, you definitely have a problem.

However do not connect a light between hot and hot of a 120/240 volt circuit (MWBC; multiwire branch circuit) unless you have two incandescent lamps (bulbs) of the same wattage in series (more alligator clip wire handiwork).
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:40 AM   #26
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


I think we lost the OP
It happens quite frequently where thread gets highjacked and taken off track. Page two is mostly about wiggy, wiggins meters and since the OP doesn't have one, why bring this into the picture. I think I gave the OP a pretty good test that matched their compliment of tools and skills.
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:25 AM   #27
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


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I think we lost the OP
It happens quite frequently where thread gets highjacked and taken off track. Page two is mostly about wiggy, wiggins meters and since the OP doesn't have one, why bring this into the picture. I think I gave the OP a pretty good test that matched their compliment of tools and skills.
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Yeah I was hoping she would get back to us on your test. My guess is they found the problem and just haven't decided to return to let us know. I do agree that getting off track can cause a poster to not return but even so she said she would get back to us after doing your test (post #6). You really never know.

As for using a wiggy in residential I did use it when inside the meter enclosure or in the main panel. We used it all the time in industrial and commercial years ago testing fuse banks for motor circuits and mains voltages. For residential it is way down on my list these days as better testers are available for all aspects of residential wiring and connected equipment.

My last comment about testers..... Nothing beats the fluke brand ...
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:56 AM   #28
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


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wiggins is the proper name, wiggy is what everyone calls it
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At my house i have my meter main on the outside of my house, and a main panel in my basement. They only circuit i wanted on the meter main was my sewage pump for my basement. It runs in UF from the small access room where the pump is located, through 40' of unaccessable space in between the outside walls and the foundation and then into a short 6" stub of pvc, through an LB and up 4' piece of pvc into the meter main. Your telling me you would run the entire length in conduit because 4' has to be protected?
Sorry, Your wrong. Klien calls it a Wiggy and so does every electrician I know. If you want to get technical about it, its actually a "solenoid" tester. Nothing more. I have had one for over 35 years and they are the easiest voltage testing tool for most. Stubbie is correct that they will trip GFCI's, and have very limited abilities. I use a Fluke true RMS meter and would never encourage any DIY'er to use it.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-69115-So.../dp/B000KII9SM

First of all, if you have a meter main outside you have a sub panel in your basement, not a main service panel. The meter main is the main service panel.
I like to run PVC, UF, NM, RMC, IMC, ENT ect.... all the way. I did not say you had too. And some circumstances will prevent me from doing it. If I am using one method I like to stay with that method for the complete run. JMHO.

Last edited by J. V.; 09-15-2010 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:04 AM   #29
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


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only if your testing to ground
Not correct. GFCI's will operate just fine with no EGC present. They are recommended for ungrounded branch circuits after all.
Its a myth that a ground is required for a GFCI to work.
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:06 AM   #30
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Wired new shed and only getting .005 amps


Ok, currently the name "Wiggy" is owned by Square D.

http://tess2.uspto.gov/bin/showfield...10:3tjaak.2.22

I can't find anything to support this but I believe the Wiggy name used to be owned by a company called Wiggins. I

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