Wired a new AFCI into my breaker box - 3 questions

vseven

I wired my first new circuit for some outlets in my basement and today landed the AFCI but I have a couple questions about it to make sure it's right and so I know what I'm doing for the next couple AFCI's.

First question: Is it ok that I came in under the mains like this? The left side is pretty full (only one spot open) so I went to the right. Also they ran each romex cable through a individual hole and didn't bundle any of them so I wanted to maintain that and the nearest hole was on the bottom right.

Second question: Is it ok that I left the sheathing on the romex? I noticed in pictures online some are left on and some are stripped to right where it enters. Since the main was right above it I couldn't strip it there so I left it on.

Third question: A lot of air is pouring in through the service entrance (from outside). Since its 16* F outside right now it's very noticeable. With the cover on the air is coming out of two punch outs on the bottom of the box (which are just open...maybe they should be sealed up) but when the covers off it's streaming in. What's the best way to seal this up or can i?

-Allan

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Scuba_Dave

Threaded thru panel looks OK as far as location
There is something holding the wire in place?
That protects it from bing cut by the sharp edge of the hole opening ?

#2....No - you are required to cut sheathing back
Only about 1" of sheathing should be inside the panel

#3 There is a specific "caulk" to seal the opening from the main wires coming in
Not sure of exact name.............

frenchelectrican

Only item I did see so far that need to be done unless you allready did this part you will need NM clamp to hold the NM at the load centre { breaker box }

To seal the conduit you use the electrical putty it will look like playdough putty but it have some nice feature it will never dryout.

A tip with AFCI circuits and GFCI breaker location as well I take a tape or ziptie and bundle it so I know it is either GFCI or AFCI breaker.

The last House I did in USA { wisconsin } we don't have AFCI requirement yet but it is optional so my customer request it so I went ahead and install it and use the Ziptie and that really save my headahce to find the correct pairs to get the AFCI function properly { BTW the inspector like my idea }

And with your GE box that is 32/40 box so you allready used up the spaces for tandem so the rest of space is full size single or two pole breakers.

Merci.Marc

vseven

There is a plastic grommet that "locks" the wire into the box...in fact that's why I didn't strip it fully out as I will have to break the grommet to do so (once I slid the wire in I can't pull it back out). Once I slid the wire in I realized I couldn't get my strippers underneath the mains (and I didn't really wanna play with sharp strippers under there....). Then there is a staple a few inches from it going into the box to prevent it from going in further.

Do I need to strip off the sheathing then? I've seen pictures online both with the sheathing right to the breaker and some without. If I do I'll have to break the grommet, "pre" strip the wire, then slid it back in since I can't strip it once it's in their. If I should do it I will.

Thanks for the tip on the putty...I'll look for it next time I'm at the store.

darren

The putty is called duct seal, should be in the electrical department of any big box store.

vseven

Well I went to add another GFCI a few days ago so I redid the one I just put in. I was able to get a screwdriver under the part of the grommet that prevents the wire from pulling out, pulled the wire out, stripped it back, then fed it back into the panel. Did the same for the other. This I'm assuming is better.

Also thanks for the tip...I found the Duct Seal. Haven't put it in yet but at least bought it so I can.

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randrx2

There is expandable foam like "Great Stuff" that is fire rated. It is orange and in the caulk aisle in the big box stores. This is what I would use here.

Scuba_Dave

That would be a pain to remove
And someone posted a video link that showed it does catch fire
The proper item to use is the duct seal

codeone

Dave , Where do you get this from?

This is from article 312.5(C)

(e) The cable sheath is continuous through the raceway
and extends into the enclosure beyond the fitting not

less than 6 mm (1/4 in.).

This is from 314.17(B)

B)

Metal Boxes and Conduit Bodies. Where metal boxes
or conduit bodies are installed with messenger-supported
wiring, open wiring on insulators, or concealed knob-andtube
wiring, conductors shall enter through insulating bushings
or, in dry locations, through flexible tubing extending
from the last insulating support to not less than 6 mm (1/4

in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamps. Except as
provided in 300.15(C), the wiring shall be firmly secured to
the box or conduit body. Where raceway or cable is installed
with metal boxes or conduit bodies, the raceway or

cable shall be secured to such boxes and conduit bodies.


This from 314.17(C)

(C)

Nonmetallic Boxes and Conduit Bodies. Nonmetallic
boxes and conduit bodies shall be suitable for the lowest
temperature-rated conductor entering the box. Where nonmetallic
boxes and conduit bodies are used with messengersupported
wiring, open wiring on insulators, or concealed
knob-and-tube wiring, the conductors shall enter the box
through individual holes. Where flexible tubing is used to
enclose the conductors, the tubing shall extend from the last
insulating support to not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside the
box and beyond any cable clamp. Where nonmetallicsheathed
cable or multiconductor Type UF cable is used,
the sheath shall extend not less than 6 mm (1/4 in.) inside
the box and beyond any cable clamp. In all instances, all

permitted wiring methods shall be secured to the boxes.


Ive never found a maximum.
Please let me know your source.
Thanks Mel