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|06-15-2011, 05:57 AM||#16|
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 369Rewards Points: 250
Yes, mainly for gas hot water heaters
I cut and pasted this. The following is still in effect.
Water Heaters and Bonding
Bonding jumpers are required for water heaters in accordance with the 2002 edition of the National Electrical Code, Section 250.104, entitled “Bonding of Piping Systems and Exposed Structural Steel.” Section 250.104(B), “Other Metal Piping,” states that “metal piping systems that may become energized shall be bonded to the service equipment enclosure, the grounded conductor at the service, the grounding electrode conductor where of sufficient size, or to the one or more grounding electrodes used.”
The bonding jumper shall be sized in accordance with Section 250.122, “Size of Equipment Grounding Conductors,” using the rating of the circuit that may energize the piping system. The equipment grounding conductor for the circuit is to be allowed to serve as the bonding means.
The points of attachment of the bonding jumper must be accessible.
If, at the time of replacement, an existing water heater has no bonding jumper but has an equipment grounding conductor present, then no bonding jumper would be required to be installed because the equipment grounding conductor is allowed to serve as the bonding means.
However, if there is no bonding jumper or equipment grounding conductor present at the time of replacement, particularly with gas water heaters, then a bonding jumper must be installed and an electrical permit is required.
If you have any questions on this matter, you may reach me at:
Source: Suzanne Borek
Code Assistance Unit
The December 19, 2005 New Jersey Register, at 37 NJR 4907, contained an adoption making the inspection of the bonding jumper for the replacement of only gas water heaters the responsibility of the plumbing inspector.
This is no longer the electrical inspector’s responsibility!
The plumbing inspector will now inspect for the bonding jumper on gas water heater replacements only.
The bonding jumper does not require an electrical permit and is to be included on the Plumbing Subcode Technical Section with the gas water heater replacement fee. The plumbing inspector will check for the bonding jumper and sign off on the Plumbing Subcode Technical Section on the line for “other,” inserting “water heater bonding jumper.”
The bonding jumper, Section 250.104(B) of the 2002 National Electrical Code (NEC), is to be sized in accordance with Table 250.122 of the 2002 NEC using the rating of the circuit that may energize the piping system.
This means, if the water heater is in a structure that has a 200-AMP service with a 200-AMP main breaker, this is the rating of the circuit which could energize the piping system and then the size of the bonding jumper in Table 250.122 would be a 6-AWG copper, or 4-AWG aluminum or copper-clad aluminum, conductor.
The clamps installed on the water pipes must be approved and listed, as stated in Sections 250.70 and 110.3(B) in the 2002 NEC. The clamps may be of dissimilar metals, provided they are approved and listed for the use.
To sum it up . . .
Gas Water Heater Replacement:
♦ No electrical permit
♦ Plumbing Subcode technical fee includes the
♦ Plumbing inspector signs off for the bonding
jumper on the “other” line on the technical section
Last edited by NJMarine; 06-15-2011 at 06:00 AM.
|06-15-2011, 03:24 PM||#17|
Licensed Electrical Cont.
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: NY State
Posts: 7,594Rewards Points: 1,538
You are aware that by "bonding jumper" they are referring to the water bond, and NOT a hot/cold "jumper" wire, aren't you?
|06-15-2011, 05:03 PM||#18|
I ask the impossible!
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Royal Oak, Michigan
Posts: 1,141Rewards Points: 604
Blog Entries: 7
So I just finished the water pipe bonding based on the most strict interpretation of what has been discussed here. I attached a #4 stranded bare copper wire on the ground bar in my panel, went out through a 1/2" cable clamp and up into the attic then down through a floor to ceiling cabinet. The cabinet is right next to the water meter, so I came out of the bottom of the cabinet on the side near the meter.
The old "bonding jumper" for lack of a better term was a stranded copper wire that connected a grounding clamp on one side of the meter to a grounding clamp on the other side of the meter. I removed this and reused the clamps.
The #4 copper stranded wire passes through the clamps on both sides of the meter.
The cold water pipe (copper) goes under a step which leads into the kitchen, it goes to a tee fitting and one leg goes into the crawlspace to supply cold water for the kitchen and bathrooms, while the other leg goes to the water heater. The #4 copper wire is also running continuously past the 2 water meter clamps and under the step, it ends at a clamp on the hot water pipe coming out of the water heater, approximately 4' of copper pipe is between the clamp on the hot water pipe and the dielectric fitting on the water heater.
I had purchased a 30' length of the #4 copper wire and used its entire length. There is only one section of this wire that is exposed for more than 12", and that is the section after the step going to the last ground clamp on the hot water. I'm assuming it would be prudent to secure this wire with zip ties lest the inspector has another excuse to fail the inspection again, but at this point once again everything and more that he has raised is resolved.
Please do NOT consider any "before" picture of my house as any kind of endorsement of any particular construction method. In fact, you should probably assume that if I post a "before" picture, I am posting it because I am soliciting advice on a proper replacement for one of MANY things done wrong by a previous owner.
|06-15-2011, 10:26 PM||#19|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 127Rewards Points: 75
Did you use a Kenny Clamp coming oput of the panel http://kennyclamp.com/ or a Romex Connector? If you used a Romex Connector, strip the wire so that the clamp comes in conrtact with the bare copper. Sorry just re-read your post and saw that you used bare coper.
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