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Old 01-23-2009, 12:29 AM   #1
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Wire Nuts


Thoughts on Scotchlok wire nuts by 3m? I used some tonight for the first time and found them 500% better than regular wire nuts. Excellent grab / bite on the wires. Very happy with them.

Jamie
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Old 01-23-2009, 12:53 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by jamiedolan View Post
Thoughts on Scotchlok wire nuts by 3m? I used some tonight for the first time and found them 500% better than regular wire nuts. Excellent grab / bite on the wires. Very happy with them.

Jamie
Personaly I dont like the smaller scotchloks (yellow & red) I like to use Ideal brand wire nuts, especially the wing style. You can get a lot of torque on them and the bite nice. http://www.idealindustries.com/produ...tion/twist-on/
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Old 01-23-2009, 02:48 AM   #3
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I'll second on the Ideal brand Twisters
The local guys seem to prefer the tan jobbies so that is what I use but after looking at the specs I think I'll get some of the next size smaller, the Lt Blue ones, the Ideal #340.

All of the three in the Twister series have a very large range of wire sizes.
The #340 range:
Minimum 2 #22
Maximum 3 #12

The #340 seems to be more popular than the #341 in that the Ideal will sell them in Barrels of 35,000, where the max qty for the #341 is a Jar of 750.

The Twister series all have a big advantage in that the end of the Cap is hex shaped so that with a 5/16 Hex Nut-Driver you can really torque those puppies.

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Old 01-23-2009, 04:07 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by PaliBob View Post
..... the max qty for the #341 is a Jar of 750....
Not quite ... click here for a barrel of 25,000 of the 341.

A bargain at just under $2,000
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Old 01-23-2009, 07:53 AM   #5
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I'm not sure which brands have this but I like the wire nuts that have a spring inside made of square as opposed to round steel wire. This gets a better bite on the wires being joined.

Yes I have twisted the wire nut on so forcefully that the spring inside deformed and/or "stripped the threads" carved (bitten) into the conductors being joined. The result was a loose connection that had to be redone and the first wire nut discarded.
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Old 01-23-2009, 09:53 AM   #6
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The tans you are talking about have been my favorite nut and I use them most of the time. I had a junction box I did last night that had 18 pieces of 12-2 romex coming into it plus thhn. Not everything was connected together, except the ground. However most of the connections still had a lot of wires tied together. I was using big blues at first and they just didn't feel like they were secure I was using 6 12# which they were rated for. Then I got the scotchlok nuts and they went on well and felt very secure.

I will continue to use the tan ones for connections with 2 or 3 wires, but when I need to do 6 wires at a time, these scotchlok seem great.

Jamie
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Old 01-23-2009, 11:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanJ View Post
I'm not sure which brands have this but I like the wire nuts that have a spring inside made of square as opposed to round steel wire.
The twisters have square wire. See pic of the data sht in my post above.

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Old 01-23-2009, 04:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamiedolan View Post
Thoughts on Scotchlok wire nuts by 3m? I used some tonight for the first time and found them 500% better than regular wire nuts. Excellent grab / bite on the wires. Very happy with them.

Jamie
Jamie, do you have a link? Are these the push in type connectors? I tried the Wago connectors but they remind me of back stabbing switches and receptacles.
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Old 01-23-2009, 06:35 PM   #9
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For long life, they have to make a "gas-tight" connection, meaning no trapped air in the splice. I'm not sure this can be judged without special equipment.
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Old 01-23-2009, 10:23 PM   #10
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Jamie, do you have a link? Are these the push in type connectors? I tried the Wago connectors but they remind me of back stabbing switches and receptacles.
Name:  39819876.jpg
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Not pushin's. I have a bunch of the wagos, but only use them for florescent fixtures and temporary work. I agree they remind me of the push-in outlets that I hate.

3M™ Scotchlok™ Electrical Spring Connectors Y, R, G and B are the original color-coded wire connectors designed with the features electricians request. They`re flexible, yet durable with an outer insulator that gives you a compact, fully insulated connection that won`t cut or abrade wires. The Y, R, and G torque fins are engineered to provide a comfortable and secure grip that makes installation fast and back-off easy. These four spring connectors have a corrosion-resistant steel inner shell to strengthen them while permitting spring expansion and contraction due to temperature changes. The live-action spring delivers reliable, vibration-resistant connections over a wide range of wire combinations from 2 #18 through 3 #8 copper AWG. A deep, flared skirt makes wire insertion easier and protects against shorts and shiners. Finally, the design and a flexible base let 3M™ Scotchlok™ Connectors bend with the wires you`re splicing to fit easily into tight places.

Link:
http://solutions9.3m.com/wps/portal/...beZDH79HQHFZgl



Jamie
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Old 01-24-2009, 08:02 AM   #11
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Thanks Jamie. I will take a look next time I run to the supply house. Where do you buy your stuff up there? I go to Midstates in Wautoma.

Have you tried the ideals with the wings? I can't get the yellow ones to tighten up 3/4 of the time. The standard yellows work fine. And the reds seem ok. Kinda weird. Maybe it's just me.
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Old 01-24-2009, 11:11 AM   #12
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Thanks Jamie. I will take a look next time I run to the supply house. Where do you buy your stuff up there? I go to Midstates in Wautoma.

Have you tried the ideals with the wings? I can't get the yellow ones to tighten up 3/4 of the time. The standard yellows work fine. And the reds seem ok. Kinda weird. Maybe it's just me.
Hi;

Yes, I have used the ideals with wings. I started with using the reds and agree they were ok. I have used some of the yellows, they seem to tighten up most of the time, but are not as smooth and easy to use as the tans. I agree with you that the yellows are a little weird.

I picked up some of the yellow and red of these Scotchlok yesterday. I did some shallow depth metal outlet boxes yesterday at my parents. I always put in a bonding screw and pigtail to the outlet. I used one of these yellow scotchloks and it it was a nice easy fit, since the skit is flexiable and there are no wings to stick out. (I know I could use crimp on's for the ground, but now that I have found these, I think they are easier.)

I bought some of the red scotchloks as well yesterday, but havent tried them yet.

These PDF's show the range charts of these nuts:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...Vs6EVs6E666666--

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...Vs6EVs6E666666--

http://alpha.octopart.com/3M__G-BOX.pdf

I've not had alot of times where I've had to twist together so many #12's at one time as I have at my parrents. But I have found the easiest way to rewire without opening walls is to fish a wire from each outlet and run it to a junction box in the basement / attic ceiling. So I have ended up with lots of wires. I still wish I knew of a better way to connect all the grounds in a box like that, I think I had a total of 19 ground wires in there to connect. I would have perfered to do my usal with the grounds where i get them all lined up in the very top of the box (when it is mounted to the ceiling looking up) and just twist them all together, then put a nut on them. Thats what I always do in 4x4 boxes with a reasonable number of grounds in them. But I had no way to connect 19 grounds together all at once, so I put them in groups of 5 + a pigtail and connected them together with pigtails, using the grey scotchlok nuts. I wondered if a split bolt would have been ok to use on the grounds? I liked the old rule better where you didn't have to use a connector on your grounds. When I twist them together well, they are not going to fall apart.

I mainly but from the big box stores, or small local hardware stores. I get alot from Menards, they carry a fair amount of P&S, which I like and the prices are very fair. There wire is often the cheapest. They stock a fair amount of the bulk bags of emt connectors and such as well, so a lot of there stuff is a better deal than homedepot or lowes.

There is a Greybar in Neenah, that I used to buy lots of telco stuff from, back when I did telephone / netwroking stuff. I've heard they have a fair amount of electrical supplies, and have through about going over and seeing if they will setup an account for me there.

I've ordered several of my Klien insulated tools online since so few places carry them.

Jamie
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Old 01-24-2009, 08:24 PM   #13
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Any IDEAL wire nut is the best for sure.
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Old 01-24-2009, 09:07 PM   #14
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Yeah, the Scotchloks have been around for a long time. I agree they hold for sure. I came to hate them when trying to do service work. You find them in old junction boxes, and you just can't remove them! I usually just cut them off.
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Old 01-24-2009, 09:39 PM   #15
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Yeah, the Scotchloks have been around for a long time. I agree they hold for sure. I came to hate them when trying to do service work. You find them in old junction boxes, and you just can't remove them! I usually just cut them off.
I was told that I could also use a split bolt when I have a lot of wire I need to join and just heat shrink it with rated heat shrink. I looked at some packages of split bolts in the store, and it didn't say it was UL listed for that purpose, so I am not sure if it is legal. The split bolts just say something like for 6 awg wire, didn't see any that said 5-10 #12, 8-15 #14, etc.

I got some insulated crimp-on's and a Klien crimper tonight. I started doing some light fixtures, where I have to connect 12awg to 18awg. I just don't like the feel of the connection I get between the 12 solid and the 18 stranded with a wire nut no matter what I do. I am hoping the crimp-on's feel like a better connection.

I also got some large crimp rings to use on grounds, should be nice in boxes that are tight on fill.

Thanks

Jamie
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