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Old 05-26-2008, 10:12 AM   #1
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Wire Around a corner


I want to wire a wall light switch (new) to a recessed ceiling light fixtures (new) in an existing room.

Any insights how to best run the wire to turn the corner between the wall and the ceiling with the least amount of cutting into the drywall or ceiling?

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Old 05-26-2008, 10:20 AM   #2
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Wire Around a corner


Do it all from above and do not concern yourself with the corner. You may need to drill one or two holes in the sill plate above the studs.

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Old 05-26-2008, 01:13 PM   #3
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Wire Around a corner


Above?

I failed to mention that room is an interior room- the wall is in an interior wall and the room has another room above it.
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Old 05-26-2008, 01:33 PM   #4
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Wire Around a corner


You did not describe your issue enough for me to to give you a solid suggestion. You have two choices: Either cut in the boxes and fish/cut in the wires or use a product called "Wire Mould". Wire mould is a raceway that is mounted on the outside of the wall and is visible. It's ugly any way you look at it, but in some cases there is no other way.
Otherwise, run your cable low, down below the baseboards, so when you are done you will only have to patch above the base boards. I'm sorry I have no easy suggestions.

Ps.....If you have a crawl space under the house you can hide all the horizontal runs down there.
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Old 05-26-2008, 05:54 PM   #5
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The least obtrusive way is to cut a 3/4" wide slot in the ceiling and around the corner past the top plate(s). The skinny slot is easily patched with 5 minute mud.

This is of course against code because the cable is not protected by a steel "nail plate" or 1 1/4" of wood. Someone could drive a nail or screw thru the patch while hanging a picture or drapery hardware and damage the cable/ start a fire.

To to it properly you need to cut out a larger portion of drywall and drill or notch/steel plate the lumber. Cut about 6" for notching or about 12" for drilling. Once you get beyond a 1 1/2" hole, the repair is the same so go as big as you need to.




If you can put a small piece of 1/8" metal over the cable in the skinny slot hole you wil be code compliant. They don't make anything for this purpose so you will have to be creative. You only have 1/2" or 5/8" to work with and the cable takes up a lot of that.
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Old 05-26-2008, 06:27 PM   #6
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Wire Around a corner


You can buy a 4' or 5' flexible drill bit and handheld guide that will let you drill through your wall's top plate by inserting the bit through a box-sized hole lower in the wall. They're very handy and aren't too expensive. You can buy them at Home Depot by the electrical tools...I got my Greenlee one there. Using a wire fish tape, you can find the hole and penetrate it, and fish the tape to the location of the new fixture. This should be able to be done with little or no damage to the drywall.
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Old 05-26-2008, 06:34 PM   #7
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Otherwise, run your cable low, down below the baseboards, so when you are done you will only have to patch above the base boards.
This works great if you have tall baseboards. You can remove the base molding, bust away the sheet rock and cut holes. Then you can simply replace the molding to hide the damage. Unfortunately, this is going to be hard to do in the corner where you have double studs for drywall blocking.
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:06 PM   #8
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BigJimmy, Yep, no real easy way to do this, even with a flexible drill extension. If the flexible drill idea does the trick, that would be his best bet.
I have never used one of these flexible drill extensions. I almost picked one up the other day but put it back. Anyone have experience with them, especially the guide?
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:48 PM   #9
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I have never used one of these flexible drill extensions. I almost picked one up the other day but put it back. Anyone have experience with them, especially the guide?
You know, I really like these J.V. but I have a few comments to make that may affect your decision to buy:

1. The guide is absolutely required. If you cut a hole in the wall for a remodel box and then set out to drill down say thru the bottom plate, without the benefit of the guide, the shaft can start tearing through the sheet rock. Also, I found that you can make the holes without it however your bit will almost be guaranteed to cut through at an angle.

2. These suckers are expensive.

3. The biggest issue that I've had with them is with the bits getting dull. And believe me, when they do, you'll definitely want that guide (it will allow you to put some pressure downward on the bit).

All that being said, I really do like them but I wish there was an easy way to resharpen dulled bits. Anyone else have any experience?

Jimmy
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Old 05-27-2008, 01:01 PM   #10
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I use a small Dremel tool with a grinding type bit to sharpen my Dversabits.

PS The OP wants to go thru a top plate and into the ceiling, not thru a wall corner. the baseboard idea doesn't really help them get into the ceiling from a switch box.
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:46 PM   #11
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PS The OP wants to go thru a top plate and into the ceiling, not thru a wall corner. the baseboard idea doesn't really help them get into the ceiling from a switch box.
Sorry, Jim. I read "around the corner" and started typing!
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:41 PM   #12
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Wire Around a corner


Thanks, all. I guess I will cut the drywall. I am getting pretty good at it. I forgot about installing a protector plate.

I also found the posting about the flexible drill bit useful. I bought one and the second hole I drilled I caught both a PVC drain pipe and a drywall nail. I agree with BigJimmy - you need the guide. Thanks Jim, I will sharpen my bit with my Dremel.

You all may find my new posting on how to repair that 3-inch PVC drain pipe in the plumbing section. It's only 13 inches long, but its got a Y-joint at each end and the branches go through 2x8 joists - the ends aren't moving. I patched it for now with epoxy and fiberglass tape and a steel band, but I know I need to replace it sooner or later.
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Old 05-27-2008, 07:27 PM   #13
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Man, that stinks about the pipe. You never know what will happen when you get into a project with a vengeance!

The flexible bit works a heck of a lot better with the $14 guide. I should have mentioned that in my first post. I sharpen mine from time to time with a bastard file.
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:12 AM   #14
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BigJimmy, When you say expensive, how much $. Yours is made by Greenlee right? The one I put back on the rack was not a Greenlee. I was at the HD. All I saw was the flexible extension. Does it use standard fluted or butterfly drills or do they use a special drill bits?
You can PM me if you like.......Thanks john
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:43 AM   #15
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The ones at Home Depot are made by Greenlee. They aren't as flexible as the drill bit flex extension that you're thinking of. They're a flexible steel about 1/8" diameter, with a large auger bit built into the end. THEY'RE SOLD WHERE THE ELECTRICAL TOOLS ARE, not power tolls. It is a one piece bit that bends with the aid of the handheld guide.

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