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When a breaker goes bad...

5K views 39 replies 13 participants last post by  Kathy G 
#1 ·
Hi all - Last weekend we lost power in one of our rooms (it was about 10 minutes after plugging the AC in for the first time this season). Thinking we blew a breaker, we checked the main box and everything was fine. We reset all the breakers anyway (and then all the clocks...) but still no power.
About two hours later - we had power. A day later - off again, without the
AC even plugged in. It was off all week and just came back on about an hour ago after 4 days being out. I have had a call in for an electrician and been waiting for a few days. In the meanwhile, I'm wondering if this is a even a breaker issue? Any thoughts? (please don't suggest a ghost - I'm not prepared to move!) Thank you!
 
#21 ·
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post

I have seen Circuit Breakers not kick, when you are just at the edge of its limits. Same as if the Breaker Trip Mechanism starts to warm up.
What is the edge of it's limits?

For a standard molded case circuit breaker 300% is the standard long time test a molded case CB will hold this current (depending on the manufacture and time current curve) 15-90 seconds. Instantaneous at 6-12 times it rating.
 
#40 · (Edited)
Thank you all for this riveting and head-spinning thread!
As it turns out the first reply from InPhase277 was actually right on the money. I have a cousin who has been a licensed electrician for 30+ years, and he confirmed it - right down to the jiggling of the outlet.
Jiggle: everything turned off
Jiggle: everything turned on
All is well now, and I offer all of you my appreciation for your input.

Just to be clear - it is repaired, not just jiggled. :)
 
#13 ·
I agree with the others, there's a loose connection somewhere, it could be where the breaker connects to the bus in the panel or anywhere between that and the outlet the A/C is plugged in to.

Find out which breaker controls the A/C outlet, turn it off and mark every outlet/light switch that is now dead. Verify by turning the breaker back on and all devices should be powered up again.

If you're using an electrician, this will save tons of time (and $$$......lol).
 
#36 ·
First I would replace FPE panels just to do to age alone.

I am not endorsing FPE Stab-Loc circuit breakers in any shape or form but in the late 70's early 80's I was involved with the FPE recall, the circuit breakers involved with the recall were all bolt-in CB's. The issue had to do with improper AIC ratings.

I have tested Stab-Loc CB's and their failure rate is about the same as GE, Sq D and CH.

The issue I always found with Stab-Locs is the poor CB to bus design. This is the point of failure I saw most often when I did residential work.

Oh and the cover design stank on the 3-phase panels, it was common if one was not careful to shut off a complete row of CBs while removing the cover.
 
#38 ·
The issue I always found with Stab-Locs is the poor CB to bus design. This is the point of failure I saw most often when I did residential work.
This may very well be the OPs problem. The failures I've seen start out intermittent then fail completely.

If the failure is indeed where the breaker attaches to the bus, it's usually nearly impossible to remove the bad breaker, and the bus is usually damaged beyond repair.
 
#39 ·
You obviously don't have much experience to make this statement. As far as rarely goes, I only need to go back to last week to give an example of a failed circuit breaker that didn't show any evidence of damage or failure, except that one pole had no voltage. Here's the story.

Was called by a customer who had smelled something in the loadcenter and called the PoCo. They didn't find anything so they pulled the meter and told him to call an electrician. He called me. Long story made short, got the PoCo to reinstall the meter, so I would have power to troubleshoot. Turned on all the breakers (old CH split-bus panel). Found that parts of the house did not have power. Checked voltage on poles of all circuit breakers. Found one pole on the 60A two-pole breaker (the one feeding the lower section) to be dead. Replaced the breaker and all was fine. I still have the CB and it shows no evidence of damage. The bus bars were beautiful. Have photos of all, in case you doubt me.

So, Greg, once again, you've posted information that is just plain wrong. When are you going to admit to yourself that you just don't know very much and don't have the experience that you think you do.

Mark
 
#12 ·
At 53 years old, no changes. Yes you can find Branch Circuits that were wired for the typical load they would receive. It all depends on how the electrician wired it. If it was a group of tract homes in your neighborhood. They all would appear the same.

It also helps to know what Breaker panel you have installed. Usually a A/C until will blow the Circuit breaker, if you have other devices that including the A/C unit are over the amperage of the Circuit breaker.
 
#14 ·
Loose connections can be caused by older wiring that has started to corrode, or has been overheated, so the wiring loses its original diameter.

I would not doubt that the house has more than one junction that needs to be checked, to make sure there are no issues from people living there over time, that have added on to the Branch Circuits, or did a Country Bob hook up of something

The last is as I asked before, if this is the original panel, what manufacturer is it.
 
#32 ·
Jump.... IMO, I thought a bunch of unfounded opinions were bouncing around ... you introduced some facts/data, and I was trying to be sarcastic and mocking illogigical unfounded opinions.

Just my attempt at dry dumb humor on my part.

Best
 
#33 ·
Jump.... IMO, I thought a bunch of unfounded opinions were bouncing around ... you introduced some facts/data, and I was trying to be sarcastic and mocking illogigical unfounded opinions.

Just my attempt at dry dumb humor on my part.

Best
OH! :laughing: Sorry, I thought you were being serious :oops:My bad.

Im bad with jokes :laughing:
 
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