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Old 07-16-2008, 09:18 AM   #1
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what is code??


i'm installing a condensing unit outside. i bought a fusible 30amp/240vac box as a kill switch. the box is for a/c outside but doesn't say waterproof? can i run 3 different cables to this box? one supply, one to condenser, one to inside evaporator[split system]?? can i double up on load side terminals for condenser & evap?? can i use flex' plastic conduit for all wiring?? can i use regular romex inside these cables or does it have to be water resistant wire?? can i run supply side [unit rated for 2-20amp bkrs.] using 12-2 romex from house panel to inside box and splice to flex cable to go to outside?? do i need to put backer board behind outside box [stucko/brick]?? Thanks for your help.

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Old 07-16-2008, 09:22 AM   #2
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what is code??


the distances are approx, supply-20'---box to cond unit 4'--box to inside unit 20' Thanks.

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Old 07-16-2008, 10:52 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Jacques View Post
i'm installing a condensing unit outside. i bought a fusible 30amp/240vac box as a kill switch.

You don't need a fusible disconnect if the condensing unit is protected by the correct breaker in the panel. Use non-fusible.

the box is for a/c outside but doesn't say waterproof?

The box (enclosure) must be rated NEMA 3 R (raintight).

can i run 3 different cables to this box? one supply, one to condenser, one to inside evaporator[split system]?? can i double up on load side terminals for condenser & evap??

No. The load and line side lugs are rated for one conductor each.

Can I use flex' plastic conduit for all wiring?? can i use regular romex inside these cables or does it have to be water resistant wire?? can i run supply side [unit rated for 2-20amp bkrs.] using 12-2 romex from house panel to inside box and splice to flex cable to go to outside?? do i need to put backer board behind outside box [stucko/brick]?? Thanks for your
help.
You can put Romex in conduit or flex if you want. But that would be a waste of time and money. Just buy UF for the whole run. This cable (UF) cannot be subjected to physical damage. So you can use a small piece of PVC to protect it outside entering and leaving the disconnect.
Mount the disconnect however you wish. I would use concrete screws and mount it directly to the brick. It will look much better.

Last edited by J. V.; 07-16-2008 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 07-16-2008, 04:18 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by J. V. View Post
You can put Romex in conduit or flex if you want. But that would be a waste of time and money. Just buy UF for the whole run. This cable (UF) cannot be subjected to physical damage. So you can use a small piece of PVC to protect it outside entering and leaving the disconnect.
Mount the disconnect however you wish. I would use concrete screws and mount it directly to the brick. It will look much better.
Man, I just enter the back of the disconnet with NM (romex) and just use a little duct seal around the NM connector before pushing the disconnect up against the wall surface...
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Old 07-17-2008, 05:19 AM   #5
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Thanks for reply. this is an old twin house, solid 12" stone,brick,plaster, so i have to go outside to run wiring, then back in house to connect. all the disconnect box's i looked at for a/c; only had 2 lugs for load. according to units wiring they want supply to go to inside unit [evap] and then 2 more wires back out to cond' unit. what a mess! i looked at how some neighbors had it done and they were doubled up on load lugs [which you pointed out is not code] how would a real electrican wire this?? Thank You.
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Old 07-17-2008, 12:12 PM   #6
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Man, I just enter the back of the disconnet with NM (romex) and just use a little duct seal around the NM connector before pushing the disconnect up against the wall surface...
That was the issue. How did he plan to enter the disco. If it's from behind I agree. But the OP never said how. Next thing you know, he's got NM strapped to the bricks outside.
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Old 07-17-2008, 12:57 PM   #7
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I like going through block with PVC, and a deep 4x4 box mounted on the inside. No questions asked about using NM in a wet/damp location. And it's easy to seal around the PVC pipe.
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Old 07-17-2008, 04:52 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by hpp58 View Post
I like going through block with PVC, and a deep 4x4 box mounted on the inside. No questions asked about using NM in a wet/damp location. And it's easy to seal around the PVC pipe.
Never had a problem, never should be a problem either, but I know locations can have different rules...
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:05 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by chris75 View Post
Never had a problem, never should be a problem either, but I know locations can have different rules...
But, think about it. Raintight box, Romex connector, they just don't mix.
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Old 07-18-2008, 01:46 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by hpp58 View Post
But, think about it. Raintight box, Romex connector, they just don't mix.
The connector is not outside, its in the wall...

Here is another example, 3R box still equals damp location, so when you install a 3R panel do you buy 3R breakers as well?

How bout this example, pancake box on outside wall for fixture, no difference IMO.

Last edited by chris75; 07-18-2008 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris75 View Post
The connector is not outside, its in the wall...
Not really, A raintight disconnect has little feet where the screw holes are creating an air gap behind the box. When it is mounted on block water can get behind it. I might be splitting hairs, sorry. I work for a pharmacutical co. and I've seen water get into the alot of strange places. I'm a little bit on the crazy side trying to keep water out of electrical equipment. Most of our equipment is washdown rated & stainless steel. I love using Arlington products, they work pretty well for residential work.
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpp58 View Post
Not really, A raintight disconnect has little feet where the screw holes are creating an air gap behind the box. When it is mounted on block water can get behind it. I might be splitting hairs, sorry. I work for a pharmacutical co. and I've seen water get into the alot of strange places. I'm a little bit on the crazy side trying to keep water out of electrical equipment. Most of our equipment is washdown rated & stainless steel. I love using Arlington products, they work pretty well for residential work.

Your not wrong in your opinion on the subject, I just install some duct seal around the connector and call it good, its just the way I do it...
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Old 07-18-2008, 02:52 PM   #13
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I've done it both ways, but it's my preferred method.

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