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Old 07-20-2014, 03:50 PM   #1
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Wanna Guess Problem?


Ok. Here was call. When they opened the oven door (directly below micro) the micro came on. When they closed the oven door the micro went off. The micro and stove are 2 seperate stand alone units

Any guesses ?

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Old 07-20-2014, 04:22 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cletis
Ok. Here was call. When they opened the oven door (directly below micro) the micro came on. When they closed the oven door the micro went off. The micro and stove are 2 seperate stand alone units Any guesses ?
its a problem with the feeder.

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Old 07-20-2014, 04:27 PM   #3
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Not really realistic, or I can't exactly explain how it would happen......

but someone somehow X wired/tapped the oven 120 circuit into the micro... when the oven light went on the micro went on... and visa-versa.

Basically..... NFI... but sure curious.

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Old 07-20-2014, 05:10 PM   #4
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Cletis wired the house.
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Old 07-20-2014, 05:11 PM   #5
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Troll in the house?
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Old 07-20-2014, 05:38 PM   #6
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The ovens backfeeding the microwave !
You open the oven door, oven light turns on,
this provides a current path for the microwave.

They must be on opposite hots,
And one is down !

Even Cletis should know this one !
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:47 PM   #7
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The ovens backfeeding the microwave !
You open the oven door, oven light turns on,
this provides a current path for the microwave.

They must be on opposite hots,
And one is down !

Even Cletis should know this one !


Still thinking it over...... but how would the oven light back feed the other leg?

Oven being on (not just the light), I'd buy that someone tapped a 120 leg off the oven to feed the 120 micro.

??????
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:21 PM   #8
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The oven door hinge/mechanism was hitting or chewing up the microwave circuit which had a bad connection.
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:45 PM   #9
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When the guy bent over to open the oven door, his head was hitting the micro on switch.....

Common.... we're curious and impatient.... but these are fun puzzels.

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Old 07-20-2014, 09:44 PM   #10
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Some good guesses there. I think dmx was the closest with the limited info I provided. HEre is whole story

Yes. It was a service call and yes I fixed it. Here is what I found. It must have been an old dedicated 120V outlet that was reused for the microwave. The only thing was, the new one was a 220V one. As far as the stove below, same thing. An old 6/2 seu. The new stove needed a 4 wire. So, someone ran a jumper (4th wire from stove and micro to closest gfci outlet on counter. Here is thing, they ran it off the load side of gfci, so when door opened on stove it let the neutral current flow. When it was switched back to line side everything worked fine.

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Old 07-20-2014, 10:00 PM   #11
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Cletis... God love ya.... but your explanation makes no sense to me.

Does it to others?

I'll go back and read it again.

I have no idea as to the explanation....

let alone what load and line side on a GFI has to do with anything. (They are both hot (or neutral) unless tripped.)

Are you sure what you are saying.?????

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Old 07-20-2014, 10:06 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
Troll in the house?
Lucky Dawgy..... Did I just get JO'd.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:57 PM   #13
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Naw man. Real deal. some kitchen remodeler slapped in a 220V micro and 4 wire stove, so, closest thing to get a neutral was from another circuit on kitchen gfci to get the displays and lights working on stove and microwave. is that better ? when stove door was closed then it was an open path on neutral and when door open, it was a closed path.

Get it now ?

They were jacklegged in series
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:29 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Cletis View Post
Naw man. Real deal. some kitchen remodeler slapped in a 220V micro and 4 wire stove, so, closest thing to get a neutral was from another circuit on kitchen gfci to get the displays and lights working on stove and microwave. is that better ? when stove door was closed then it was an open path on neutral and when door open, it was a closed path.

Get it now ?

They were jacklegged in series
Cletis..... As explained (partially)... yes, it does possibly make sense with a tapped in series neutral.... but there would have been other pecularities like the stove would not work (120 lights) without the microwave working.(and yes, maybe there is a new 4-wire stove that has no 120 control lighting except for the interior light.... I have trouble believing it is made)

And you did say that the stove was wired SEU (I thought all SEU was three conductor... maybe I'm mistaken).... and you never disclosed the micro was 240 (which you have to admit that in most instances, it is fair to asume as 120).

Fun.... but tricky through deception/non-full disclosure.

( I have some lights in my game room circuit that won't go on. I have checked each outlet and the breaker, and all the GFI's, all wiring, and even each bulb.... I am sure all are working fine. What's your call?)













(Power went out in the city... I did not tell you the full story)

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Old 07-21-2014, 12:54 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Cletis View Post
Ok. Here was call. When they opened the oven door (directly below micro) the micro came on. When they closed the oven door the micro went off. The micro and stove are 2 seperate stand alone units

Any guesses ?
You could have explained this better. I understood it to mean the microwave started to cook....you didn't say the power came on.

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