Do I need a GFI oulet for my washing machine in the basement? I thought I read that it is not recommended, but I can't remember why. I am going to replace the old wire with 12 gauge romex and sleeve it in conduit to the outlet box with a 20 amp outlet. Thanks for the help.
Do I need a GFI oulet for my washing machine in the basement? I thought I read that it is not recommended, but I can't remember why. I am going to replace the old wire with 12 gauge romex and sleeve it in conduit to the outlet box with a 20 amp outlet. Thanks for the help.
If the basement is finished, then NO, but if it is not, then yes it needs to be a GFCI. (2008 NEC)
Below is the 2005 requirments, you can probably get away with a SINGLE receptacle, not a DUPLEX.)
(A) Dwelling Units
All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed
in the locations specified in (1) through (8) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter
protection for personnel. (1) Bathrooms (2) Garages, and also accessory buildings that have a floor located at or below grade level not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use Exception No. 1 to (2): Receptacles that are not readily accessible. Exception No. 2 to (2): A single receptacle or a duplex receptacle for two appliances located within dedicated space for each appliance that, in normal use, is not easily moved from one place to another and that is cord-and-plug connected in accordance with 400.7(A)(6), (A)(7), or (A)(8). (3) Outdoors Exception to (3): Receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a dedicated branch circuit for electric snow-melting or deicing equipment shall be permitted to be installed in accordance with 426.28. (4) Crawl spaces — at or below grade level (5) Unfinished basements — for purposes of this section, unfinished basements are defined as portions or areas of the basement not intended as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and the like Exception No. 1 to (5): Receptacles that are not readily accessible. Exception No. 2 to (5): A single receptacle or a duplex receptacle for two appliances located within dedicated space for each appliance that, in normal use, is not easily moved from one place to another and that is cord-and-plug connected in accordance with 400.7(A)(6), (A)(7), or (A)(8). Exception No. 3 to (5): A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system shall not be required to have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection. (6) Kitchens — where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces (7) Laundry, utility, and wet bar sinks — where the receptacles are installed within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the outside edge of the sink
Otherwise unprotected Romex needs to be running over a hard surface such as a board, or strung, through bored holes as needed, at least 1-1/4 inches in from the edges of studs and joists, as opposed to being strung openly across the edges of studs and joists.
I read somewhere that Romex should not be strung through conduits. I forget whether this has to do with the entire cross section of the Romex cable counting against the percentage cross section of conduit fill, or whether it is not permitted at all.
The laundry area needs a receptacle served by its own 20A circuit for a washing machine. There may have other receptacles nearby served by other circuits.
In the unfinished basement you could not have a non-GFCI receptacle that is easily reached and not in use almost all of the time for large heavy "non-portable" appliances. For a duplex receptacle unit, both receptacles would have to be so occupied.
I read somewhere that Romex should not be strung through conduits. I forget whether this has to do with the entire cross section of the Romex cable counting against the percentage cross section of conduit fill, or whether it is not permitted at all.
It is permitted. It does not alter the rating of the cable though, NM can't be run in wet areas with conduit, for example.
With sleeves you can ignore fill requirement and jam two 12/2s into 1/2 inch EMT, but it's a tight fit.
In a complete conduit system you need to take the largest cross section and then pretend it was a round cable as fat as the fattest part. Which means flat 12/2 or 14/2 NM is a pretty bad idea in conduits because you hit the fill limit very quickly. Surprisingly 12/3 often uses up less fill space than 12/2 because it's rounder. Go figure.
As Chris said, GFCI is required for an unfinished basement, but I have read several threads in this forum on issues presented by GFCI's for washing machine. Sometimes the washer will cause nusiance trips of the GFCI.
One thing for certain; If the washer receptacle is located within 1m (3ft) of a sink, then it should be GFCI, regardless of finished or unfinished.
Concrete is porous and a person standing on a seemingly dry bare concrete floor is at risk for electrocution if the concrete was really moist. Whereas for a covered floor, wetness will be more obvious.
GFCI protection should be used in any area likely to get wet.
Concrete is porous and a person standing on a seemingly dry bare concrete floor is at risk for electrocution if the concrete was really moist. Whereas for a covered floor, wetness will be more obvious.
GFCI protection should be used in any area likely to get wet.
I dont need a coverd floor to call it a finished area. I can paint the walls and call it finished.
The concrete is only part of the problem, probably not what the NEC had in mind though, My take is that a basement in a residential setting is the perfect place a homeowner is going to use a tool with a broken ground pin on it.
Well, in that case, I should have GFCI's for all of my basement receptacles. It is generally dry, as we have two dehumidifiers running as needed. But if we get a really good rainstorm, we may get some seepage, or even water on the floor.
I recall years ago we used this non-immersible pump with garden hose connectors to pump out water from the basement into buckets. No GFCI's at all. Thinking of it now, it was really stupid.
I have since gotten rid of the pump, and would only use a GFCI receptacle/breaker if I needed to work while the basement is wet.
Ask your washing machine manuf. if your particular machine will cause GFIs to nuisance-trip more than average than for other motor loads (but no manuf. wants to say his appliance will cause problems elsewhere).
If so, you know by now what the NEC wants you to do.:huh:
Ask your washing machine manuf. if your particular machine will cause GFIs to nuisance-trip more than average than for other motor loads (but no manuf. wants to say his appliance will cause problems elsewhere).
If so, you know by now what the NEC wants you to do.:huh:
You could also install a GFCI breaker as an alternative to an outlet.
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