remove everything from the fuse box, buses fuses till is just an empty box with wires coming in. then extend evey wire with wire nut to your new panel.
I went to local electrical supply store, they didn't think anything can be used as the "wire nut" for the connection. They didn't know what to do with the 100am wires, and they sugguested to add electrical boxes and connect wires with the twister in the boxes...
What kind of wire nut should be used here? I have 15amp, 20amp, 30. 40, 100 amp wires needed to be extended.
Around these parts, you cannot just remove a fuse box and install breakers in their place. You would need to update the grounding, and if you update grounding and the panel, you would be required to update the meter socket as well.
Legal panel changes are few and far between around here.
Why? I find it to be a good thing. When fuse panels were common, the grounding requirements aren't near what they are today. Not to mention that over the years, everything has been corroded. Now look at what they used to use (in this area) for service entrance conductors. Many of them are copper clad with cloth covered TW that has been damaged from 50+ years of sun, rain, snow, and cold.
So you would be cool with having to rip out knob and tube if it existed, or heck, even old BX? Im just trying to prove my point of hardship, its existing, leave it alone unless instructed by the homeowner, gotta love how someone dictates how you are required to spend your money.
I know, i hope you can just see my view on the situation, of course... it doesn't affect me at all, i'm just kind of shocked someone felt the need to mandate this.
Because people install pennies behind them. Seriously though, there is no safe way to ensure that someone won't install a larger fuse than safely allowed, they are frowned upon by the insurance industry.
Every insurance co. I know sends out an inspector before insuring your home. This happened many years ago and it still happens. My nephew recently bought a home and his future ins. co. said they would not insure the home if the roof was more than 15 years old!
You have to remember, insurance companies, like ANY company, are out to make money, so if they are always paying claims, that company will fail, it's all about good investing, and they tend to increase those odds or walk... We all do the same thing in life.
I completely agree with Stick on this one. The is a big difference than screwing a fuse in and changing a breaker. Screwing a fuse in is much easier in that you don't have to take the panel cover off and work in a live environment.
I will also say that in these parts, insurance companies usually require fuse panels be removed before they will insure the property.
I completely agree with Stick on this one. The is a big difference than screwing a fuse in and changing a breaker. Screwing a fuse in is much easier in that you don't have to take the panel cover off and work in a live environment.
I agreed earlier that installing a fuse is easier than installing a breaker. However, I also mentioned that installing a breaker is safer and easier than shoving something into the socket and having it stay there and make good contact. If someone is willing to do that, then they would also be willing to install a new breaker.
Stick brings up a good point. There really is no way to tell what fuse is supposed to be installed in that spot in the panel. Therefore, when it blows, the only thing the common homeowner has to go off of is what was installed previously.
Very true. On that same note, someone could have also previously installed a larger breaker because they were having overloads. As I have said, and I'm sure you have seen yourself, there are many panels out there with #14 on 20A breakers and even #12 on 30A breakers. Many times these are in older houses where the bathroom, kitchen, and a bedroom or two are on the same circuit.
I assumed that insurance companies pulled the trigger on fuse panels because they assume it has been a long time since the electrical system has been updated. The replacement of a fuse panel will get an electrician in to look it over for safety issues in that panel that are not inherent to fuses and maybe even to issues outside of the panel.
Did you ever get your answer? Seems like the thread took a twist a ways back and you didn't get a real reply. I have done what you are planning. It's a matter of running lenghts of the proper size wire from the new panel to the old. Remove the "innards" of the old panel. And since it becomes a junction box, you still must keep it accessible.:thumbsup:
Sorry , but I find that roof thing a bit of a stretch! We still have Met Life after they cut us a check after Hurricaine Gloria in 1985 for roof damage. Cashed the check and went to Home Cheapo bought my 23 square of shingles and nails , put them on and never heard a peep from them. Had a kitchen fire in 2001 due to a friggin' oil filled air freshener that melted in the kitchen outlet, they paid out $32000, although they subrogated with American Candle and got paid back, again no reinspections or a peep from them.
I am not sure why anyone would say you cannot use wire nuts to splice your wires. Wire nuts come in different sizes to accomodate the number and sizes of the conductors being spliced. A typical red would fit 2 #14 to 5 #12s. Check the label to be sure.
You will not find wire nuts large enough for your 100 amp wiring. You will need to use something like the Polaris pre-insulated connectors or split bolts and rubber and vinyl tape. The Polaris are expensive but save quite a bit of labor and are easy to use.
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