found a connector like the pic below. They have different sizes rated for up till 100amp, 600volt. The guy in the store was not sure if these connectors are allowed as home electrical connectors.
To wrap up my question: Can I use this kind of connector to extend wires from 110, 15amp wires up to the main power supply, 100amp wire?
Maybe things are different in Canada than in 84,Pa.15330,But that doesn't sound like a code approved tap.15 amp off a 100 amp wire. Or am I missing something.
In a department store lighting panel, 100A, the feeders were spliced through to a contactor after the fact to control the panel. I did not see the bare spot at the back of the bug. I was carefully trying to push the wire back into the panel to put the cover on and the bare spot hit the edge of the panel, right under my hand. Burned a deep hole in the palm of my hand and 3d deg burns all around my fingers.
I was only in the trade about 5 years at the time.
In a department store lighting panel, 100A, the feeders were spliced through to a contactor after the fact to control the panel. I did not see the bare spot at the back of the bug. I was carefully trying to push the wire back into the panel to put the cover on and the bar spot hit the edge of the panel, right under my hand. Burned a deep hole in the palm of my hand and 3d deg burns all around my fingers.
I was only in the trade about 5 years at the time.
So, I did use the old box as a junction box, and used the connector shown in #64.
Now, inspector came, and sent another electrician to come to see.
Both said: never seen anything like this. This is crazy.
I said: It may not be the usual way, but all the connectors are well above standard (300V+, 20A+). There is no problem having wire nuts in an enclosed metal box.
Certified Electrician said: No way in a million years, that I will approve this. You have to get it all taken out and just do the normal panel box. $700+tax.
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My take on this is: Most electricians are educated in school with the standard parts and equipments. They don't think beyond the normal gears to see what really is the code, how to calculate voltage and current and find out if something is really up to code. They only know what they use in class and what they buy from their supply stores.
Thus, the solution we came up with here is foreign to them. They don't even bother to check if this foreign thing is good. They just say NONONO!!
Damm... I wasted all the effort and money... I still need to pay an electrician to redo all the work!!!!
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My take on this is: Most electricians are educated in school with the standard parts and equipments. They don't think beyond the normal gears to see what really is the code, how to calculate voltage and current and find out if something is really up to code. They only know what they use in class and what they buy from their supply stores.
Code is code. Did you bother to ask what it was that was non-complaint? Or did you simply take their word on it?
They CANNOT simply fail something because they don't like it.
Its been a very long time since I looked at the specs of a wirenut, but every standard wirenut is rated for 600V and does not have an amperage rating. If I remember correctly, a standard red wirenut can fit 2 #8's which would be good for 50A.
I know that I have some that I've been avoided using in fluorescent ballast replacement because they are not rated to 600V. It is kind of a PITA to remember. IIRC, the lesser ones are rated 300V. Yea, I know, they'd probably be fine
Right now, insurance company's inspector is asking for an electrian's write-off. So far, two electricians looked at it and basically said it has to be redone or no way i will pass it.
They don't bother to show me the codes... either let them redo it or good luck finding one electrician who will be willing to check all the codes and pass it.
Let me get this straight. You are looking for an electrician to sign off on your work???
I was wondering why an electrician was involved. No, they don't have to tell you anything. If they look at it and don't like what they see that can just walk.
Personally, when someone calls for this kind of thing, and they do, I just tell them no over the phone. An electrician would be out of his mind to put his name on someone's DIY work.
WHY are you doing it this way anyway? Why not just get it inspected yourself?
I guess I can't see why you are insisting on doing this a non-standard way when the standard is easy, inexpensive, and proven safe.
I had to turn an old panel into a junction box about a year ago. It wasn't hard and didn't require anything that can't be found in the electrical aisle at any big box store.
I really think that you should just pay someone to do this work for you. This isn't the sort of thing you want to experiment with.
You could hire an electrical inspector to inspect your work. And you could post pictures here so we can see if we notice anything that should be done different.
My god what a thread! But back to an earlier point. In my county, we use a 2 out of 3 rule for meter, panel, and SE cable. If you replace only one, they'll grandfather most things that are not up to current code on the other 2. If you replace 2, you have to replace the third. Makes sense to me (and it saved me a pile of work because my very long SE cable is 3 wire, not 4.) Is that policy unusual?
How about try using wirenuts in place of those terminal strips? Between the terminal strip and the messy work, those are probably the two biggest factors working against you right now.
Only time I have seen or used terminal strips, is wiring control panels in the Navy. That is only because you never use wire nuts. Everything is either crimped with heat shrink and coating of 3m rubber coating, or wired to a terminal block. Of course, that is also why Wago came out with their connectors for use in residential and commercial installations, but a one time use only product, unlike a wire nut.
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