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Old 01-02-2009, 07:18 PM   #16
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If you need oem parts try Joe at Plaza Machinery in Vermont.

I understand about you wanting to keep it original, but there are some things you can do to make it safer. A kick stop is one. It will complicate your sorting out the electrical issue, but if you ever use a table saw with a kick stop you will probably never want to go back.


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Old 01-02-2009, 07:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by dgr68 View Post
Bob- Where did you get the contact? Also, did you think of just switching to a new switch with overload- a la the Grizzly ones? I'm chasing this around because I'm curious and would like to keep the machine true to original but I'm getting near the end of the rope.
I took it to a place like Granger's and they matched it up for me.
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Old 01-02-2009, 08:09 PM   #18
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The motor on this saw is thermally protected, thus satisfying code requirements.

A simple toggle switch (light switch) that's rated 2 HP at 120 volts would be code compliant.

One of the biggest reasons that a controller like this was installed from the factory is because if the power fails during a cut, the saw will not re-start when power is restored. The start button would need to be pushed again. With the toggle switch, it will re-start if the switch is still on.

For what it's worth, my table saw has had a toggle switch on it for over 25 years.

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Old 01-03-2009, 08:16 AM   #19
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Thanks again all. Rob- you think I'll be OK running it w/out thermal overload at the switch? I would love to get the thing running- tough I do want to figure out what is wrong with that controller still.
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Old 01-03-2009, 01:45 PM   #20
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I noticed that the OP pushed the contactor in manually. I must take issue with this type of behavior.
Pushing in a motor contactor manually is very dangerous. If there were a short in the motor or wiring the contactor could blow up in your face. I know someone who was severely burned doing this. If you must manually push it in, please disconnect the motor and measure the voltage instead.
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Old 01-04-2009, 05:08 PM   #21
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The problem is the overload. I bypassed the control loop on it with a jumper and the contactor engaged and stayed engaged when I pushed the start. Question is- what do I do now? There doesn't seem to be any way to push the red stick so I don't think it is tripped. Is there a fuse in it?
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Old 01-04-2009, 05:53 PM   #22
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My guess would be a new overload.


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