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Old 06-06-2010, 12:39 AM   #16
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Under cabinet Lights?


Here is another possibility:



Replace the outlet with a GFCI/switch combination unit (pictured above) and feed the gfci through the switch. Then you can plug the lights into the outlet and switch them from the switch in the location you want.

This meets code! Also if the outlet is a standard outlet that is gfci protected through another outlet upstream or gfci breaker you can substitute and non gfci switch/receptacle combination device (pictured below)



Again, wire the receptacle through the switch! You will have to break the tab on the line side of the switch and refeed it from the load side of the switch.

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Old 06-06-2010, 01:21 AM   #17
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Under cabinet Lights?


Quote:
Originally Posted by kcrossley2 View Post
I just discovered that, based on the diagram that Scuba_Dave posted, my builder did in fact make a mistake, which is why that electrical outlet is there and only 12" away from the one installed to the right of it. Man I hate this builder.

Anyway, all of this is getting too confusing, and possibly dangerous, so I'm going to pull the power from my switched overhead sink light instead. How can I tell if that'll work?

AND THIS IS WHY IT'S BEST TO HIRE A PROFESSIONAL.
That should work if you have constant hot power in the overhead light.
If not and the power is only in the switch box, it may be easy enough to add a feed from that switch box to a new cutin box with switch. Then you can feed the lights however you want.
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Old 06-06-2010, 02:32 AM   #18
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Under cabinet Lights?


Man, there's nothing I hate more than wasting time and today's work was a total and complete waste. I should have checked everything out first. Well, at least I didn't burn the house down and I'm getting more drywall practice. Lesson learned. I'll start fresh tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

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Old 06-06-2010, 10:08 AM   #19
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Under cabinet Lights?


Okay, here's the latest. For those of you curious about what all this looks like, here you go. As you can see, the outlet to the right of the stove is the one I originally expanded to use as the under cabinet lighting switch. Note the proximity to the GFCI master immediately to the right. I'm I'm assuming the master didn't meet code because of it's placement. Also not the outlet to the left of the stove. Seems a little close to the stove.



This photo shows my new under cabinet lighting power source. I'll go into more detail on my next post.
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:14 AM   #20
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Under cabinet Lights?


Okay, here are some closeups of the place I intend to pull power from. Before I make another huge mess, and waste valuable time, I'd like to get everyone's opinion. The switch on the left controls a single recessed light above the sink. It's on the same breaker as the seven other recessed lights in the kitchen. The switch on the right controls the garbage disposer, which is on its own breaker as well.

My intent is to replace the two switch box with a three switch box and pull power from the existing light circuit. I'm assuming one of the black leads on the leftmost switch is hot. It looks like all of the neutral wires are bunched together in the back, so I can grab my neutral from there. Does that sound like it'll work? Also, what do you think the red and black wires connected together at the top right are for?

Thanks for your help.

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Old 06-06-2010, 11:42 AM   #21
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Under cabinet Lights?


Are they both single switches ?
One isn't a 3-way ?
Make sure you have a constant hot before you do anything

Rather then go to a triple box I'd install a double switch & stay with the quad box

That outlet to the right of the one removed must be within 2' of the stove to meet code
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:43 AM   #22
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Under cabinet Lights?


The receptacle that looks like it was removed looks like it is still needed for code compliance. The countertop spacing requirements call for no spot to be further than 2' from a receptacle. Your spacing starts at the edge of the stove.
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Last edited by Jim Port; 06-06-2010 at 01:53 PM. Reason: changed sink to stove
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:38 PM   #23
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Under cabinet Lights?


Quote:
Originally Posted by kcrossley2 View Post
Okay, here are some closeups of the place I intend to pull power from. Before I make another huge mess, and waste valuable time, I'd like to get everyone's opinion. The switch on the left controls a single recessed light above the sink. It's on the same breaker as the seven other recessed lights in the kitchen. The switch on the right controls the garbage disposer, which is on its own breaker as well.
that can't be. the switch on the left also feeds the switch on the right. That left switch upper loop is your constant hot and feeds to the right switch lower stab in point. Kill your lights and try running your GD, if it still works, try turning on the sink light.

My intent is to replace the two switch box with a three switch box and pull power from the existing light circuit. The wall stud is to the left of the box I'm assuming one of the black leads on the leftmost switch is hot. It looks like all of the neutral wires are bunched together in the back, so I can grab my neutral from there. Does that sound like it'll work? Also, what do you think the red and black wires connected together at the top right are for? Most likely dishwasher which if it is, I'd turn off as well when changing out the box.

Thanks for your help.
Hope it helps
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Old 06-06-2010, 03:21 PM   #24
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Under cabinet Lights?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
Are they both single switches? One isn't a 3-way?

Make sure you have a constant hot before you do anything
Yes, single switch.

How do I do that?
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Old 06-06-2010, 03:26 PM   #25
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Under cabinet Lights?


Quote:
Originally Posted by fpeftw View Post
that can't be. the switch on the left also feeds the switch on the right. That left switch upper loop is your constant hot and feeds to the right switch lower stab in point. Kill your lights and try running your GD, if it still works, try turning on the sink light.
Yep, you're right. The light is tied into the GD circuit. Hey, isn't the GD suppose to be on a 20 AMP breaker?

BTW, I need one dimmer switch for the under cabinet lighting and one dimmer switch for the in cabinet lighting. Is it okay to combine the sink light and GD with one double switch, so I only have to use a triple box or is better to do four switches in a quad box?

Last edited by kcrossley2; 06-06-2010 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:54 PM   #26
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Under cabinet Lights?


Quote:
Originally Posted by kcrossley2 View Post
Yep, you're right. The light is tied into the GD circuit. Hey, isn't the GD suppose to be on a 20 AMP breaker?

BTW, I need one dimmer switch for the under cabinet lighting and one dimmer switch for the in cabinet lighting. Is it okay to combine the sink light and GD with one double switch, so I only have to use a triple box or is better to do four switches in a quad box?
They're already combined so putting them on a stacked switch isn't going to change anything. At that point it's your choice whether you want to see 4 switches or fumble with a stacked switch. If you try the stacked switch and don't like it, you can always cut in a 4 gang box.

That's 14 gauge wire so it has to be on a 15 amp breaker. As long as the GD is rated for 15 amps or less you can downsize it. I see the same is true for your DW. I've seen it before and done it before.
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:59 PM   #27
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Under cabinet Lights?


Decided to go with a four gang box. I just finished rewiring the sink light, garbage disposal and dishwasher. Everything works fine. Also applied the second coat of mud to the drywall holes I made. I'm waiting for two Lutron Skylark Low Voltage Dimmers and the Kichler Linear light kit to arrive sometime this week. I may have additional wiring questions when it arrives, but I really appreciate all your help. Have a great evening.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:01 PM   #28
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Under cabinet Lights?


What's with the knots in the wiring?

Is it code to do what there is on the left box where they took off a part of insulation to run under the screw? I thought you weren't allowed those middle of the wire type joints?? (I could easily be wrong though).

Also, everything I read says not to use those stab type connections. I would remove the wire from them and use the screw connector instead.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:13 PM   #29
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Under cabinet Lights?


knots in the wires are from the electrician doing the rough-in to help the electrician trimming out the switches keep them seperated.

For the other 2 remarks, it's not best practice, though legal and still safe.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:25 PM   #30
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Under cabinet Lights?


Usually back stabs will only accept 14g wire
Are you sure this is a 20a circuit ?
14g is not allowed on a 20a circuit

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