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Old 08-18-2012, 09:48 PM   #16
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Under cabinet lighting


The whole 10 Gauge thing seems a little excessive to me but that is what seagull sells to snap the bulbs into. I've been assuming that if you're going to link two pieces of low voltage 10/2 with a piece of high voltage wire that it must be at least 10/2 to satisfy code. Is that not right?

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Old 08-18-2012, 09:52 PM   #17
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Under cabinet lighting


You have to plan this run carefully. The JBoxes I was referring to will only fit one romex and one LV cable.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:57 PM   #18
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You have to plan this run carefully. The JBoxes I was referring to will only fit one romex and one LV cable.
If you are refering to super shallow handybox type then yeah I have see it before and Oui,.. there is not much room to work around them espcally if someone run #10's in there ( IIRC they have oddball romex connecter as well )

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Old 08-18-2012, 10:06 PM   #19
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Under cabinet lighting


1 romex and one LV cable per Jbox is what I had in mind.

I have two runs off the transformer.

RUN 1: 10/2 Romex off the transformer into a jbox and into the wall, past the window and up to a jbox at the cabinet where it will transition to 10/2 LV. Then it's 10/2 LV to the end of the run.

RUN 2: 10/2 Romex off the transformer down through the wall to the cabinet and into a jbox and where it transitions to 10/2 LV. The wire exits the wall at this first jbox. Then lights and 10/2 LV until it hits the Stove/M-wave. Run the 10/2 LV into a junction box and switch to 10/2 romex in the wall.
Run romex through the wall to get past the stove and then come out into a junction box where it again switches to 10/2 LV at the cabinets. Complete the run with 10/2 LV.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:10 PM   #20
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Do a voltage drop, I highly doubt you need 10-2...
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:13 PM   #21
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Do a voltage drop, I highly doubt you need 10-2...
That size is needed because of the size of the track the cable "snaps" into. You mount the track on the cabinet, you snap the cable in, then the fixtures snap onto the track. The fixtures have little stabs that penetrate the wire and make the connection.

If you ask me, I would run 14/2 romex up the walls. That's what we always did and never had any problems.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:27 AM   #22
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Since the maximum current the transformer can put out is 5 Amps can I use smaller than 14 AWG in the walls?
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:30 AM   #23
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Since the maximum current the transformer can put out is 5 Amps can I use smaller than 14 AWG in the walls?
14 AWG is the smallest wiring gauge you will find for a chapter 3 wiring method.
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:28 AM   #24
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Can I get the small junction boxes in a bigbox store (Home Depot, Lowes etc) or will I have to go to an electrical supply place?
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:35 AM   #25
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Under cabinet lighting


Thanks guys that NSL Xeon is the cats meow.
Most light bars for cabinets are 1.25" so you wont even see it. I like them because my granite is so reflective i can see each individual light under the cabinet.
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:38 AM   #26
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Thanks guys that NSL Xeon is the cats meow.
Most light bars for cabinets are 1.25" so you wont even see it. I like them because my granite is so reflective i can see each individual light under the cabinet.
That is a problem with alot of xenon/halogen type UC fixtures. The bulb is so bright that it looks like you have movie theater isle lighting on your stone...especially the darker stone.
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:53 AM   #27
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Yep i have a very dark stone, and now that you said, it does look like movie isle lights lol
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Old 08-19-2012, 08:56 AM   #28
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That is a problem with alot of xenon/halogen type UC fixtures. The bulb is so bright that it looks like you have movie theater isle lighting on your stone...especially the darker stone.
The NSL Xeon come with a built in high/low dimmer switch.
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:05 AM   #29
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You can get frosted bulbs to fit the Seagull Ambiance series bulb holders.

You can also use a 15/16 deep Wiremold box to make the splice.

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