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Old 08-18-2012, 03:42 PM   #1
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Under cabinet lighting


I am in the middle of a kitchen remodel and am trying to figure out how best to hardwire for the under cabinet lights. At the moment the sheetrock is down in the kitchen. The walls are exposed so I can do whatever is best.

I am using low-voltage lights from SeaGull. The recommended wire on the low voltage side of the transformer is 10/2 cable: http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/264...FYkbQgodfGYAAg .

My plan is to put the transformer about midway in the full run of 26' and then run cable both directions. This will minimize the voltage drop along the cable.
I have to go through walls in 2 places. My local code defers to the NEC and I guess the NEC code says that only Romex can be run inside walls? Can I simply string 10/2 Romex through the walls and then solder it to the low voltage 10/2 cable? Will this be in compliance with the NEC?

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Old 08-18-2012, 04:41 PM   #2
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Under cabinet lighting


For the most part, your typical low voltage wire 10/2 cannot be run in the walls. I've dealt with Seagull for a long time and what is typically done is you run 12 or 14/2 romex up, then install a special small JBox to switch to your low volt cable.

Since I don't know what type of lights you are talking about, you could connect the fixture leads directly to the romex, but it has to be in a JBox...or at least according to the inspectors around here.

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Old 08-18-2012, 06:23 PM   #3
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Under cabinet lighting


It is this transformer: http://www.seagulllighting.com/produ...h?SS=96223S-15

I'm running 12/2 into the transformer. The low voltage side gets 10/2 low voltage cable. My question is how do you go through walls on the low voltage side of the transformer and satisfy code? Can you run 10/2 Romex through the walls and connect to the low voltage 10/2 cable on both ends? (and ignore the ground wire in the Romex).

Just to be specific I've got cabinets-window-cabinets.

I've got to run wire that is on the low voltage side of the transformer past the window and I don't want the wire to be visible. I was thinking that close to the window I'd cut the low voltage 10/2 and attach (solder?) 10/2 Romex to it. Then I run the 10/2 Romex into the wall and past the window and back up to the cabinets and out of the wall on the far side of the window and attach that end back to the low voltage 10/2. Is this ok?

So to prepare for my sheet rocker all I have to do is install the special small J-boxes and the 10/2 romex and it'll be good to go for the sheet rocker?

I re-read your response k_buz. I think we're on the same page which I guess means I have only one question left. I guess the small J-boxes will do the trick? I mount them so that they won't be visible and run 10/2 romex in and 10/2 low voltage out?

Last edited by jep; 08-18-2012 at 06:44 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:09 PM   #4
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Under cabinet lighting


Whats the load and distance of the the fixtures to the transformer? personally, I would buy a fixture with a transformer already installed in the unit, its nearly impossible to meet code with separate low voltage fixtures.

Make your life easy and go with something simple like these...
http://www.nslusa.com/xenontask.html

Last edited by stickboy1375; 08-18-2012 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:37 PM   #5
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Under cabinet lighting


I'm not sure of the exact load but it will probably be about 25 W since the bulbs are 0.6W.

http://www.SeaGullLighting.com/22100...96119S-33.html

I'm not sure I'd call them "separate fixtures". These bulbs snap onto the low voltage 10/2 cable. We've already ordered them so I'm not too inclined to cancel unless there was a really good reason. People seem to have a pretty high opinion of SeaGullLighting in general. I'm not sure why you need the distance and load since the distance varies but here goes. The total length of lighted space will be about 26 feet. I am going to put the transformer in the middle so that there will be two runs of 13'. We'll put bulbs something like every 6 inches along those two runs. Can I run 10/2 Romex through the walls and connect it to low voltage 10/2 in the small j-boxes which is what I think k_buz suggested?
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:42 PM   #6
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Under cabinet lighting


I've installed hundreds of those exact systems. Seagull makes a low voltage junction box (about 1x1x2) you change from romex to LV wire. Run the romex out of the wall, install the JBox, splice on the LV wire. I will try to find the JBox.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
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I'm not sure of the exact load but it will probably be about 25 W since the bulbs are 0.6W.
Well you dont need # 10 awg... run more home runs to eliminate voltage drop.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:56 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_buz View Post
I've installed hundreds of those exact systems. Seagull makes a low voltage junction box (about 1x1x2) you change from romex to LV wire. Run the romex out of the wall, install the JBox, splice on the LV wire. I will try to find the JBox.
That will still stand proud of the bottom of the cabinet, I dont see how that will look appeasing?
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:00 PM   #9
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Under cabinet lighting


You really don't even see it (the box) unless you are looking for it. Its no deeper than your standard Xenon UC fixture.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:01 PM   #10
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You really don't even see it (the box) unless you are looking for it. Its no deeper than your standard Xenon UC fixture.
Seems like a lot of work though, no? im not disagreeing with the setup, just seems like a lot of extra work. Ive never worked with it before.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:04 PM   #11
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Its kind of a PITA honestly. The whole system. We installed it because the GC sold it, but we didn't encourage it.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:06 PM   #12
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Its kind of a PITA honestly. The whole system. We installed it because the GC sold it, but we didn't encourage it.
Lol... i can imagine, we sell a lot of WAC xeon lights, and I hate them, the NSL Xeon are the cats meow...
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:31 PM   #13
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Lol... i can imagine, we sell a lot of WAC xeon lights, and I hate them, the NSL Xeon are the cats meow...
Stickboy.,

Just kind off topic for real quick but how well they are built about the NSL Xeon luminaire are ??

I have ran into some of the POS stuff allready but Seagull are not too bad once you know how it layout on them ( but they are pita with termation box we pretty much know this anyway )

Merci,
Marc
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:42 PM   #14
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Under cabinet lighting


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Stickboy.,

Just kind off topic for real quick but how well they are built about the NSL Xeon luminaire are ??

I have ran into some of the POS stuff allready but Seagull are not too bad once you know how it layout on them ( but they are pita with termation box we pretty much know this anyway )

Merci,
Marc
I havent used seagull yet, i guess if you use one product long enough it becomes easy... just the learning curve that sucks...

I've been doing a ton of LED undercabinet lighting, and you want to talk about a nightmare with the drivers and proprietary wiring... shoot me now.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:47 PM   #15
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Under cabinet lighting


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Originally Posted by stickboy1375 View Post
I havent used seagull yet, i guess if you use one product long enough it becomes easy... just the learning curve that sucks...

I've been doing a ton of LED undercabinet lighting, and you want to talk about a nightmare with the drivers and proprietary wiring... shoot me now.
The drivers and properitary wiring that part we will not get into that kind of mess it no differnt between the Americian and European verison at all.

I ran into few crappy LED's as well.

The last one I work on just couple month ago one of my customer have pretty much top of line Phillps LED and in a week later almost all of them were fried due the driver was not set up to work with 50 HZ supply ( this driver was set up for only 60 HZ source and burn them up ) 1200 Euros went up the smoke on that one. ( Merde ! )

Merci,
Marc

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