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zappero 04-24-2012 10:56 PM

Two switches wiring question
 
Hi All,

Need to replace an old faulty two switch fixture in the bathroom (light and exhaust fan). Right now, each switch on the single fixture separately operates either the light or the fan, regardless of the position of the other switch. Want to keep things that way.

Here is a picture of the old fixture's wiring: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1179096/photo1.jpg

To replace this fixture, I bought to the Leviton 5634 (design diagram here: http://communities.leviton.com/servl...224%205634.pdf)

Unfortunately, what is confusing me is the the different designs between the two fixtures and the fact that the original unit seems to have some kind of patch or cross over type wire connecting the top and the bottom switches (see photo link above).

Any help/advice on how to wire this new fixture based on the picture of the current wiring configuration would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!

jbfan 04-24-2012 11:20 PM

Take the red wire and connect it to the line side of the switch.
That will be the 2 screws connected together.
Connect the other wires to the top and bottom screws, on the orther side of the switch, depending on light or fan on top.

Discard the short black wire.

jbfan 04-24-2012 11:32 PM

I just looked at the current picture again.
I'm not sure what that jumper wire is for.
Can you take a pic of the front of the switch?

zappero 04-25-2012 12:03 AM

Thanks for the advice. Here's the front:

http://db.tt/zGN1DIvX

zappero 04-28-2012 03:20 PM

Hi jbfan and everyone else!

So the plot thickens. I tried wiring the new switch and the result was that the bottom switch turned on the fan & light and the top switch only turned the lights on and off when the bottom switch was in the ON position. In other words, I couldn't turn the lights on and off without the fan being on....which is NOT what I want.

I should mention that after my first post, I realized there were two different lights being controlled by the same switch (the lights above the mirror and the light connected with the exhaust fan unit). Ideally, I'd like to be able to turn both of those lights on with the same switch and then have the fan on the other switch, both operating independently. Failing that as an option, I'd at least like to be able to turn on the lights above the mirror independently and then have the fan/light in the fan unit tied to the other switch.

Here are some more photos of my current situation. Any help/advice would REALLY be appreciated. Thank you!!!

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1179096/photo%203.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1179096/photo%204.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1179096/photo%205.JPG

AllanJ 04-28-2012 09:13 PM

This is my guess.

Put the black wire that was at the far lower left corner of the old switch assembly as seen in your original photo -- on the new switch side with the two screws jumpered together.

Put the other two wires on the other side of the new switch.

I am guessing that, within a foursome of the old switch, either (A) the top two terminals are always connected together and the bottom two terminals are always connected together and the top and bottom are switched together with the switch handle. (As viewed in your photo.)

or

(B) the left two terminals are always together and the right two terminals are always connected together and the left and right are switched together with the switch handle.

But both foursomes have to work the same way. Power is supplied by one wire and the other two wires go to the lights. The short jumper gets raw power to both foursomes. Only alternative A meets all of the conditions.


To avoid guesswork --- With all the wires (labeled and) removed from the old switch, use an ohmmeter (a multimeter has this function) to measure which combinations of terminals (taken two at a time) show continuity (near zero ohms) for what switch positions. (Omit measurements between a terminal on the top foursome and a terminal on the bottom foursome, as seen in your original photo. Report back.

Do not touch the meter probes to live wires or live parts when testing ohms (continuity)..

andrew79 04-28-2012 09:58 PM

make sure the powers off before you stick an ohmeter on it or you may be holding a grenade.
nm previous post was updated while i was making mine :D

frenchelectrican 04-29-2012 04:36 AM

If you want the fan and the mirror light avce fan light seperated if so you may want to take a peek at the exhaust fan junction box if there is one but be aware it will be very limited on space which I have see it from time to time.

But with Leviton switch I did double check as long you don't break the tab on the right side ( the toggle switch facing ya not the backside ok ? ) that is incomming power source so the single black conductor from bottom of the box is your incomming source that single black conductor should be on the right side of the switch and for the light that pigtailed black conductor that should be for the luminarie while the red conductor is for the fan.

Try that I am pretty sure that will work ( it is backward what I used on P&S switches ) I have to double check it so It did come out right answer.

If that did slove the issue that fine but if not let us know I have few more trick up my sleeve and other members can chime in as well they will assit you more along the way ( I will be replying to ya later due I am in France the time zone is about 7 hour advanced of ya )

Merci,
Marc

a7ecorsair 04-29-2012 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zappero (Post 906855)
Hi All,

Need to replace an old faulty two switch fixture in the bathroom (light and exhaust fan). Right now, each switch on the single fixture separately operates either the light or the fan, regardless of the position of the other switch. Want to keep things that way.

Question: What is the problem with the old switch device?

a7ecorsair 04-29-2012 09:47 AM

1 Attachment(s)
See the black pigtail that is connected between the new switch and the yellow wire nut; this is most likely the feed to the two lights.
Did you break the tab that connects the two brass screws on the one side? This tab provides the same function that the jumper did on the old switch. The black wire entering the box at the lower right is most likely HOT. This would connect to the side of the switch that has or had the tab.
I'd say the red wire goes to the fan and would connect to either A1 or B1
The remaining black wire will go to the what is left either A1 or B1


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