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-   -   Two PIR wall switches for a single lightbulb? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/two-pir-wall-switches-single-lightbulb-4137/)

GabrielKnight 09-29-2006 01:53 PM

Two PIR wall switches for a single lightbulb?
 
Hi! First post. I'm from UK if that makes a difference to the questions below. Please read the scenario over carefully, because I'm not sure whether what I want to do would be classed as a 2-way system or not. Thanks!



The ceiling light in the entrance hall is currently controlled by an ugly push button timer switch at the bottom of the stairs and a standard on/off switch at the top of the stairs.

The timer switch always works regardless of the position of the on/off switch, but when the on/off switch is 'on' it overrides the timer switch, keeping the light on forever even if the timer has timed out.

I like the idea of replacing both the push button switch and the on/off switch with a couple of these PIR wall switches with timers:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...66514&ts=40874
I want the light to switch and stay on for 3 minutes no matter whether a sensor is passed at the top of the stairs, or the bottom, OR BOTH PIRs within a few seconds of each other.

I think that the product is not specifically designed for a two way system (it doesn't say)? However, is it actually a two way system if you want the lights to stay ON when both switches are triggered?

In my current setup, it is impossible for the lights to be off unless BOTH switches are off. Assuming these PIRs are one way switches, is it possible to wire them up in the same way as the existing setup so that the lights will only go off when both timers have timed out?

KUIPORNG 09-29-2006 02:48 PM

connect the light to both switch making them an OR gate logic, either one can turn it on... and use the auto mode of the light, that means either one can turn it on and set time's on option to 3 minutes (if doable by the switch) so both switch will be off at after 3 minutes and light shut off...and anyone trigger on , light will come on... should work... to use an existing wire, this would be tricky but should be doable...as the wire are three wires + a ground right now, just make sure use two of it and abandon the other one... and both switch hot connect to incoming hot, neutral connect to incoming neutral, and both output are together to the light...

GabrielKnight 09-29-2006 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KUI****G (Post 19565)
connect the light to both switch making them an OR gate logic

STOP! This is starting to remind me of my old physics lessons, lol!

Quote:

Originally Posted by KUI****G (Post 19565)
either one can turn it on

That's a better way of putting it. But both have to put it out, n'est pas?

Quote:

Originally Posted by KUI****G (Post 19565)
set time's on option to 3 minutes (if doable by the switch) so both switch will be off at after 3 minutes and light shut off...and anyone trigger on , light will come on... should work...

3 mins was an example,but timers are adjustable. Plan is to make them both the same.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KUI****G (Post 19565)
to use an existing wire, this would be tricky but should be doable.

Is my current system not the same parallel one (always on until both are off) as the one I want to do with the PIRs? Why will the wiring be different? Not asking out of malice, but want / need to know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KUI****G (Post 19565)
to use an existing wire, this would be tricky but should be doable...as the wire are three wires + a ground right now, just make sure use two of it and abandon the other one... and both switch hot connect to incoming hot, neutral connect to incoming neutral, and both output are together to the light...


Hmmmm. What?! Assuming PIR switch has two holes (standard 1 way switch), which wire goes where? All I know from a movie I saw that cutting the red wire is a bad idea. :laughing: Don't forget I'm UK. Does this make a difference to the scenario?

KUIPORNG 09-29-2006 03:18 PM

your switch is wired incorrectly ... then... I saw contractor before unable to read those 3 ways switch diagram and then I correct them it work... about 10 years ago...

the problem is you still have a 3 wires situation... you can use a tester to test which wire (red,black,white) has voltage... after disconnecting them all of them... to find the true hot wires.... now how to find the true neutral.... if you have a multimeter then you can measure the resistance to the light's hot and neutral to determine the neutral wire and output hot wire...

gee it is easy to say... but doing it is another story... I assume you know the main switch to shut off for this mess around though...

if your wire only contain 2 wires, black and white then you can do it without all those guessing above...


I just thought of an idea, find another device control by the same circuit... then use multimeter to find the true hot wire and true neutral wire by this device, resistance = 0 then you are the master of the game... tool required: a long wire you can cut for connecting to this device, a outlet is preferrable...

GabrielKnight 09-29-2006 03:38 PM

Sound like a pain in the proverbial. I'll take the current switches out tomorrow to have a peak and will come back to let you know. How does one post pics on this forum? :huh: Stay tooooned.


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