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rustynails 05-20-2009 04:35 AM

Tube installation problem with diagram
I'm putting in two new tube's into my garage however one of the them was removed a long time ago but now I have replaced it. The garage has two switches, one on the LHS of the internal door and one on the LHS as you walk in to the garage. Both switches should operate both tubes. I've drawn an image of my setup in paint, hope it makes it clearer. The problem I have at the moment is not being be able to get everything working correctly. I have succeeded in keeping the furthest tube light nearest the garage door on permanently but nothing else. I can't figure out the correct configuration. Especially with the first tube nearest the internal door which has four cables coming into it so four black/neutral, four red/live and earth. Seems from the setup a different type of wire exists between the two switches which has red/blue/yellow wires. As per the diagram the yellow wires attach to the common terminals in both switches. It would seem that the power comes into switch one which is where the incoming power connects to the common. Both switches have three terminals on L1/L2/COMMON. I don't own a multimeter but I could get one but I don't know how to use one to identify which wires are which. Following this url I'm confident that my switches are wired correctly.

Here's the layout.


DangerMouse 05-20-2009 06:23 AM

what is LHS?


rustynails 05-20-2009 06:48 AM


Originally Posted by DangerMouse (Post 275985)
what is LHS?


Left Hand Side ; )

kbsparky 05-20-2009 04:52 PM

Which wire from switch 1 goes to "tube 1" ?

(I assume that by using the term "tube" we are referring to a standard fluorescent fixture?)

Which wire in tube 1 is the one that goes to tube 2?

From that we should be able to fix this.

Edit to add: An unusual way for what we call a "3-way" switch setup, but it appears to work when you run the line diagrams.

rustynails 05-21-2009 04:33 AM

well thanks for all! the responses.

I found the switch wire by using a multimeter. However found it difficult to identify the switch live (the wire that runs between tube 1 and tube 2) because I could'nt get the leads to reach between the two tubes. So I tried using my jump leads as extension not sure it worked because all readings were 1. no change on any of the red wires.

I now have tube 2 turning on and off with both switches but nothing going on with tube 1.


kbsparky 05-21-2009 04:46 PM

You need a lesson on how to utilise a multi-meter when troubleshooting. :huh:

Set your meter to read ohms, and then do the following:

Turn power off, and twist the leads together of the wire in tube 2. Next, take each cable in tube 1, and check for -0- ohms. When you find one that shows such a low reading in ohms, then untwist the leads in tube 2 to confirm you have the correct cable. If the reading does not change, then try another cable until you have found the right one.

Now label it so you don't forget!

You now have 3 cables remaining in tube 1 that need to be properly identified.

Next, do the same thing to identify your switch loop. Find the other cable with the -0- ohm reading (if none show this, then throw your switches one at a time to see if the reading changes).

Mark this one as your switch loop.

The 2 remaining cables are your "feed in" and "feed out" and they simply twist together.

Now, take the blacklead from your switch loop, and connect it to the 2 red leads from your feed cables. Nothing else connects to these wires.

Take the red lead from your switch loop, and connect it to the red line that goes to tube 2, and the hot lead of the ballast in tube 1.

Connect the 3 remaining black leads together, along with the neutral wire from the ballast of tube 1, and both lights should now be wired properly. Restore power for a final check of your work (Of course at this point, you should have connected the ballast of tube 2 back to its incoming cable).

Let us know how you fare.

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