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Old 02-09-2013, 06:45 PM   #46
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All electricians need a voltmeter/amp meter. I personally carry one multi meter and a multi meter with clamp on amp meter when going on calls.

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Old 02-09-2013, 07:08 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by rrolleston View Post
All electricians need a voltmeter/amp meter. I personally carry one multi meter and a multi meter with clamp on amp meter when going on calls.
Not only I carry one but I do carry at least 3 clamp on ampmeters with me in my service truck all the time in case one not reading correct I will grab the second one to verify it.

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Old 02-09-2013, 07:13 PM   #48
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Guess I am a loser. I need to get the clamp on amp meter. I'll put it in my pocket next to my notepad and pens. Could you recommend a decent one? I have needed to measure that in the years doing this. Yea I am not certified, but I over wire and protect. Pisses people off.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:15 PM   #49
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rrolleston... I was only trying to show how I was getting voltage, not the amps I needed and were said to be running. The last photo is to show how I got no voltage by turning on another breaker. Too bad it was a crappy photo.

Now to the sarcasm
Very simple right there if you have neon test light saying that you have power ( inside the Caravan <travel trailer> ) which that is 30 amp breaker which it is a MAIN breaker for your Caravan by time you get the 15 or 20 amp breaker kick on. and when the test light go out which.,

The surefire answer is you have bad connection somewhere along the circuit at the Caravan power post or plug itself or bad cord which it can happend.

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Old 02-09-2013, 07:23 PM   #50
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Thanks, frenchelectrician. That is exactly what I did, and everything is ok.

But seriously.... Each one gets out of callibration by milliamps? I hate that crap. It's all over the place. Tune a guitar by ear. How do you know that the right one you are using as a base is the right amperage?

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Old 02-09-2013, 07:39 PM   #51
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How did you know you were getting 2 amps with that tester?
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:32 PM   #52
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jbberns I didn't. That is the point of this post. I am small, and did not know how to test amperage on a running line. I threw that out as a number by saying you could read a 110 volts on 1 amp. It was just an example. By reading previous threads you will see how to do that. That was what I was looking for. I am just looking usually for a good running line, whether or not it can hold the amps that I am sending through it (and double that just to make sure), and just being a sensitive man in the 90's.

Oh.. and I'm a fanatic about gfci's. photos coming.

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Old 02-09-2013, 08:56 PM   #53
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Using a clamp on ammeter (amp meter) is the easiest way to measure how many amperes are flowing through a given wire. Just slip the jaws over the wire and read the number of amperes on the scale or the screen.

To use an in-line ammeter, break the circuit somewhere for example unscrew the wire attached to a breaker. For this example, touch one meter probe to the loose wire end and the other meter probe to the screw the wire end came off of. Read the amperes on the meter scale. This requires care because, if too many amperes flow, you burn out the meter. Never connect an ammeter between a hot wire or terminal and anything not known to be a legitimate load (light, appliance, branch circuit continuing downstream, etc.). Do not try an in-line ammeter if you have reason to believe that the number of amperes flowing is greater than what the meter can handle (above the range on the scale).

The third method of figuring amperes is what I hinted on when I mentioned that one 100 watt 120 volt lamp draws about 4/5'th ampere. Total up the wattages of all the things you have plugged in and turned on, and divide by the voltage (typically 120). You need a voltmeter to verify the voltage; if it drops then all bets are off. The light bulb draws a significantly different number of amps if the voltage is off by more than 10% and it lights up dimly. It will take a page of text and college level mathematics to discuss figuring out amperes when the voltage is changing.

You cannot make a circuit draw fewer or more amperes except by turning things (loads) on or off or unplugging them.

For most electrical calculations, if you get a discrepancy or error (or something "does not compute") and the amount is less than 2 percent, you can ignore the discrepancy. The exception is when you are looking for small discrepancies such as keeping voltage drop under 3 percent in which case you need to do calculations accurate to at least two significant figures.

For the topics discussed in this thread, if the meter is inaccurate by 2%, it's good enough.

Yes I can tune a guitar by ear with no reference, although C won't be exactly the same as C on a properly tuned piano or C that someone else tuned a different guitar to, but you can still play the guitar solo and it will sound good.
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Last edited by AllanJ; 02-09-2013 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:57 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Spitfire_onme View Post
Thanks, frenchelectrician. That is exactly what I did, and everything is ok.

But seriously.... Each one gets out of callibration by milliamps? I hate that crap. It's all over the place. Tune a guitar by ear. How do you know that the right one you are using as a base is the right amperage?
I guess I'm slow myself. Are you an electrician, handyman, etc? What exactly are you talking about with "right base amperage?" In this case the exact amps aren't all that important. The important concept is that you have a loose connection somewhere.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:00 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Spitfire_onme View Post
jbberns I didn't. That is the point of this post. I am small, and did not know how to test amperage on a running line. I threw that out as a number by saying you could read a 110 volts on 1 amp. It was just an example. By reading previous threads you will see how to do that. That was what I was looking for. I am just looking usually for a good running line, whether or not it can hold the amps that I am sending through it (and double that just to make sure), and just being a sensitive man in the 90's.

Oh.. and I'm a fanatic about gfci's. photos coming.
If you honestly want to check the integrity of a "line" then a megger is in order. To be honest your situation just called for a simple multimeter, and not much more. You cannot simply send amps through a line. Amp draw is dependent on line voltage divided by the load resistance. I = E/R
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:03 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Spitfire_onme View Post
Guess I am a loser. I need to get the clamp on amp meter. I'll put it in my pocket next to my notepad and pens. Could you recommend a decent one? I have needed to measure that in the years doing this. Yea I am not certified, but I over wire and protect. Pisses people off.
You need a decent multimeter to start.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:52 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitfire_onme View Post
Thanks, frenchelectrician. That is exactly what I did, and everything is ok.

But seriously.... Each one gets out of callibration by milliamps? I hate that crap. It's all over the place. Tune a guitar by ear. How do you know that the right one you are using as a base is the right amperage?

I have to use my other ampmeter to make sure if I am reading it correct otherwise there is other methold to read low amp load but right now it is not excatlly related to here unless you understand little better with the ampmeter function.

Quote:
Originally Posted by diystephen View Post
I guess I'm slow myself. Are you an electrician, handyman, etc? What exactly are you talking about with "right base amperage?" In this case the exact amps aren't all that important. The important concept is that you have a loose connection somewhere.
As I did mention before I knew it right away was a loose connection as soon the OP did put a load on the neon test light go out that give me the answer right on the spot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by diystephen View Post
If you honestly want to check the integrity of a "line" then a megger is in order. To be honest your situation just called for a simple multimeter, and not much more. You cannot simply send amps through a line. Amp draw is dependent on line voltage divided by the load resistance. I = E/R

The Megger testmeter is not a common item for average DIY to use and the voltage level what the Megger will crank out is pretty high voltage level and there is a semi commpaited produre to do the testing. ( I have to use the Megger tester everyday over here in France so I am used to it )

Merci,
Marc
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:09 AM   #58
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I have to say that AllanJ is the best. I know what you are saying about amps being put through. No problem. I have done your tests. But what I'm trying to find out and I am an idiot, is how to measure full amp load being safe. I'm not saying that you did not help me out... you did more than anyone else. I'm just saying.. how is a multimeter or what you described an immeter going to tell me how many amps are allowed without what you described pulling them? I don't know if I'm describing my question right.

I seem to have the same problem with an open E, if you get my drift.

diystephen. I don't know what the hell I am. Just a guy learning on a daily basis I guess. I have a computer that is ten years old and runs faster than the four brand new laptops that are overrun with crap that they can't use them. Have a printing press in my living room. Build rifles for people. I don't know. Just that guy. Fix your plumbing... Whatever.

Would have to put the frenchman next. I just hate that you have to have two meters to do it. It's just that I'm sick of I GOT TWO METERS OF EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE. Whether it's for water, power, close connectiions to computer parts. JUST GIVE ME ONE THAT IS RIGHT ON.

Like I said. Rewired an old victorian, wired so many houses, ramps, trailers, and have never come across this.

I appreciate how much you guys have input this, even though I didn't need it really. Like how those photos. Man... I had the chick laying over her bed, while I'm cramped (good thing I'm skinny) in the corner, just to get you guys those shots.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:56 AM   #59
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That little neon light tester you used puts your hands way to close to live parts of a panel if your troubleshooting hot. However it will not help you with the problem you were experiencing. You need a meter .. one that will give you amps used on a circuit conductor. Many of these are combination meters that will make several tests for you. I would suggest that you explore a local electrical store or online. I like fluke meters and fieldline. Replacing the panel was probably a good move regardless as most trailers could stand some upgades.

I don't think I ever understood where the problem existed though, did you find the source or did just replacing the indoor panel solve the problem?

Most trailers I've worked on that plug into a pedestal could use new equipment at the trailer connector inlet. So I'd take a look at those for their conditon and replace if necessary. Sounds like the service cord was ok.

I know you know this but working on other peoples electrical at a trailer park comes with quite abit of liabilty. You WILL be sued if anything happens after you leave and think things are fine only to find out a bad connection you missed got hot and burned the trailer down.

I don't know your age or situation or employment but why not get the schooling and necessary licensing to do what you are doing now. Then you can help people out as a professional with the credentials to prove it.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:16 AM   #60
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Stop feeding the troll!

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